gofarther.me

January 31, 2013

It was on sale at the market in Seville, and it beckoned to me. Why not romanticize the bedroom and put in a soft candle, I mused. The price of a small candle seemed high at $8.50, but tolerable at half that price on sale, and it smelled like vanilla. What a nice surprise for Kathy! I could not understand any of the Spanish language label; no matter, I had my candle. A candle is a candle, right?

The surprise was not for Kathy, but for me. Once lit, the result was more fit for a brothel than a pastor’s bedroom. The candle turned different colors, filling the bedroom first with red, then green, then purple, then blue, then yellow, then orange and on and on and on. How can they make it work like that? There was no off switch.

Wow, imagine my surprise when Kathy came in and said she liked it! Wonders in Spain never cease to amaze me. WEG

I didn’t know it would be so hard to buy milk products in Spain. The milk comes from Austria in non-refrigerated cartons with a pull tab at the top. That is interesting. We can do without milk, but cream is another thing. Understand, this is a huge market–no staff we could find can speak English and, in this instance, pointing does not work, so we laboriously went down the aisles looking for cream, not once, but three times–no cream. Back to the apartment to figure out the right words to say. Once back in the store, I find a friendly stocker and say ,”Crema.” He speaks to me in many Spanish words and I say, “English,” and he responds, “No.” I say, “Crema por cafe,” as I made a drinking gesture. He smiled and signaled for me to follow. I did, and he took me to the liquor area of the store to the coffee liqueur. Yes, it is a coffee with cream. Wanting to be polite, I said, “Gracias,” picked up a bottle and went on. I’ll tell you, it is the best cream I’ve ever drank.

By the way, Kathy found real cream amongst the yogurt. Four dairy cases of yogurt, one, yes one small carton of whipping cream. I told her, she has to drink her cream and I’ll drink mine. WEG

I like surprises, and I know some people don’t, but I can tell you this–the surprises in Seville are good. Around every corner is something new and different, it seems. City plazas or squares, pocket parks, narrow alleyways that lead to amazing outdoor/indoor restaurants, bubbling fountains, statues or other artwork on columns, flower-planted courtyards, tree-lined walkways, beautiful tile/brick/rock streets with wonderful shops lining the sides, ancient walls with ancient lamps/lights, towers and more towers, musicians playing and setting moods, crowded lanes and then no one were discoveries just today in the neighborhood of our apartment–I cannot wait to venture out farther, taking the advice of this blog, go farther.

By the way, we are only 60 steps from the side entry of Seville’s largest department store from our apartment entry. El Carte Ingles is five floors and three buildings of super, super store. It is part Target, part Macy’s, part Nieman-Marcus, and part Kroger–part Target, because it has merchandise for the everyday person; part Macy’s, because it has large department store items; part NM, because it has high end designer boutiques scattered throughout and part Kroger, because it has a gigantic grocery with a gourmet store within the store. Did I mention that the side entry is only 60 steps from our apartment? I hid the credit cards and money from Kathy. It is not an exaggeration to say that there are over 300 other stores within 10 minutes’ walk of our apartment. We will not experience them all, at least I won’t–can’t speak for my wife–I won’t get past the pastry shops. WEG

There it was, the picture in a fourth grade boy’s mind come to life–the banner! Raised by Ferdinand III in 1248 over Seville, the capital of Andalusia in a campaign to drive the Islamic Moors/Arabs from Iberia, it now lay encased in glass near a side altar in the magnificent Seville Cathedral. I had read about the reconquest of Spain by Christian forces and it had captivated my mind. The image of the battle banner being hoisted over the city was in a recessed corner of my mind, but never forgotten. Today, what was once a distant thought became reality in that ancient piece of cloth. I do not know God’s economy of time, but I was impressed that for centuries Christianity was under Islamic dominion in this part of the world and then arose to once again flourish. The banner is proof. I stood in awe! WEG

We decided on Seville for a “headquarter’s city” because, as a young boy in grade school I had read about the fascinating history of the area and, since then, wanted to visit it. Wow,,,double wow…triple wow! As soon as we arrived, it was amazing. Palm trees caught attention for height, and orange-laden trees lined the streets where old Spanish architecture predominates. Our apartment is on a narrow, stone-paved, pedestrian-only street in the middle of everything. Within two minutes are dozens of restaurants: in fact, right next door is a pastry and ice cream shop that sells sandwiches. Within three minutes’ walking are major department stores, boutiques, and “mom and pop stores” of every description, including a market from which we purchased our groceries. (Forty kinds of honey, 46 kinds of sardines, over 200 kinds of cheese–I stopped counting–and 26 kinds of cured ham hanging by the bone caught my eye.) A major city square nearby invites a stroll with its open air market. Major historical landmarks are within a six minute walk on cobble stone lanes lined with orange trees, now fully fruited.

As I type, ancient church bells clang. When we emerged from our apartment to find a place to eat, we were enthralled by a stirring military band majestically marching in procession behind a statue of the Christ Child on a silver (not painted) platform surrounded by candles and bouquets of roses. The platform bearers and musicians were dressed in black uniform. We can hardly soak it all in, but we have a month to try! God be praised! WEG

January 25, 2013

Today was bucket list day in Madrid. We spent much of the day at the great Museo National Del Prado where we viewed masterpieces by Goya, El Greco, Velasquez, Titian and on and on. My head is spinning with intriguing information. For instance, in Tintoretto’s Christ Washing the Disciple’s Feet, the perspective changes as you walk from side to side while viewing the painting. I marvel at such mastery of art. Most of Goya’s dark period paintings are at the Prado, a time when his anger at the King caused some mental instability and his paintings turned dark and morbid. It is so fascinating to view the politics of the day through the eyes of the painter.

Kathy and I love museums. This was a great day in one of the world’s finest.

The Museo Del Prado

I knew octopus and squid were important to Spanish and Portuguese cuisine and the first time I saw it on a menu, I ordered it. Really good! Kathy and I have eaten in two Spanish sit down restaurants–the hotel suggested them to us as serving authentic Madrid food. Here is what we have learned so far–1. the food is excellent; 2. the wait staff is solicitous–one brought us coffee liquor as an after dinner drink on the house; 3. you eat dinner after 7:00 p.m. at the earliest–the hotel restaurant doesn’t open till 8:30; 4. the food comes in huge quantities–you will not leave hungry; 5. the food definitely is different than anything we are used to eating in restaurants–i.e. the super crusty bread is served with a type of blue cheese and cured pepperoni to spread instead of butter; 6. there is no rush to get you out the door–graceful, kind and slow; 7. we are loving the Spanish experience. WEG

We prefer train travel in Europe. We will fly some on this journey and rent a few cars, but when available, we will use trains. I remember my parents putting me on the train in Oklahoma City, when I was a young teen, bound for Chicago. I was hooked on trains from that day on. So, clickety clack, whizzing by scenery, comfortable seats and lounge cars, here we come. Our first big journey was yesterday from Paris to Madrid.

Train lounge car

Paris has aged well. Kathy and I have changed significantly since we were here 37 years ago, but Paris has not changed–at least the places we are seeing have not. Viewing the timeless beauty, the graceful charm and the majestic grandeur reminds me that while I change with time, like Paris or fine wine or gourmet cheese, I want to age well.

Snowing in the City of Light

The airplane landed amidst a snow storm over two hours behind schedule. Everything is slow. Our TGV train is late as well. Kathy and I look at each other and smile–we are in no rush–after all, WE ARE RETIRED, and we are in Paris. I slip on my fingerless gloves–they feel warm and I can type while we wait. The flight from Houston was great and we slept well, so we are doing fine. In the past, I rushed on vacation and now no rush. Somehow, this feels better–something about enjoying the journey while you move toward the destination.