Waffles, Fries, Chocolate, and Beer
Belgium is famous for its chocolate, fries (don’t call them French), waffles, and beer. We enjoyed a fast and wonderful three days in this charming land. We settled into our hotel in Brussels, the capital of the European Union. Kathy and I had been upgraded to a suite at the Marriott and we tried to give it to our friends, Randy and Melisa. They caught onto the scheme and were adamant in refusing to take the room. Such is life.
It was sprinkling as we walked to the Grand Place, an absolutely stunning city square. In my mind, it is the most beautiful in Europe. Gold-leafed buildings with statuary and facade peaks line the square. The buildings were once home to the various trade guilds that controlled European trade through much of the medieval period. Truly spectacular! We could not pass up Belgium Frites (Fries). They are double fried and tasty–crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.
The next morning, May 5, was a bright and beautiful day to spend in Bruges and Ghent. The train ride from Brussels is direct and quick. Bruges is a city time forgot, all for the good. Today it is just as it was hundreds of years ago. Atmospheric, charming, cozy and quaint are descriptive words for this city of canals and cobblestone. Picturesque buildings filled with restaurants, shops, chocolatiers and outdoor cafes line the narrow and winding lanes. Beautiful tree-lined walks pass along rivers.
We had a delightful late lunch after we had explored the city. We also ate Belgian Waffles. Light and airy, they are filled with fruit of one’s choosing and adorned with Chantilly (whipped cream) and warm Belgium chocolate poured over the top.
Amazingly, this was the day of the “Tour of Flanders” annual bicycle race, the most important cycling race in Flanders held every spring. It came through the main city square and along the narrow streets. We were able to get a wonderful view along with thousands of enthusiasts. The bicyclists whizzed by followed by cars topped with each contestant’s extra bikes and then emergency and police vehicles. Fun!
We arrived in Ghent around 5 PM. We rushed to the famous St. Bavo Cathedral before it closed for the day. Beautiful, it has an amazing huge bronze pulpit. Unfortunately, we were too late to see the 15th century Ghent Altar Piece, the famous “Adoration of the Mystic Lamb,” painted by brothers Jan and Hubert van Eyck. One of the great works of Renaissance art, this massive oil painting on panels was the subject of the movie, “The Monument’s Men.” Kathy and I had viewed it on a previous visit, but we were sad Randy and Melisa did not get to see it. We walked around the city amongst the medieval buildings and viewed the many tall towers (for that day) that made Ghent the “Manhattan of the Middle Ages.” We trained back to Brussels for a good night’s sleep–well, our friends, Randy and Melisa, slipped out for “snacks.”
Today we loafed around Brussels. Kathy and I stayed in the hotel for the morning, while Randy and Melisa shopped on wonderful shopping streets. In the early afternoon, they encouraged us to join them on a walk to some of the beautiful areas of the city. We did! Eventually, we found an excellent restaurant that specialized in homemade pasta. It was outstanding. We had crepes for dessert–more chocolate, chantilly, and fruit. At this point, we cannot help ourselves. After all, we rationalize, we may not pass this way again.
As for the waffles, fries, chocolate and beer? We had our share! Tomorrow we train to Amsterdam for the night and fly home Wednesday. We have had a delightful month of travel.
Museum Day and THE Meal
To stroll the Tuileries on May 3, stretching from the Louvre to the Place de la Concorde, is a very Parisian activity. The walk through the Tuileries with its formal hedges, fountains, and flower plantings is very pleasant. Today we noticed bleachers had been set up around the Egyptian obelisk at the center of the Place da la Concorde in preparation for an upcoming summer Olympics sporting event. How photogenic the setting will be!
At one end of the Tuileries is the L’Orangerie, the museum that houses Monet’s Water Lilies collection of paintings depicting his home and gardens in Giverny. Monet designed the two rooms of the museum to house his masterwork. Painted at differing times of the day to catch the light changes on the lilies in his pond, with weeping willows dipping into the water, his work is a 360 degree panorama of impressionism at its best.
From here, Randy and Melisa, our friends, and we hiked to see the Rodin Gardens and Museum. Melisa was particularly interested in viewing “The Thinker” and “The Kiss.” We were able to see many of Rodin’s sculptures on the wonderfully tranquil grounds of the manicured gardens of the mansion built in the early 18th century. Imitating art, Randy struck the thinker pose at the base of the bronze work. “The Kiss” is a marble work housed inside the museum along with many other marble works from antiquity.
After a long day, Randy charted our course back to our hotel via metro underground. The Paris subway system is extensive and relatively easy to use. The subway stops are clean and bright; unfortunately, while elevators and escalators are available, stair climbing and descending is unavoidable. Once again, we noticed soldiers walking around, fully armed, and we realized preparations are fast underway for the summer Olympics. The National Assembly of France has Olympic colors in statuary representing various sports adorning its front.
Our evening was reserved for a meal at Le Train Bleu, one of Paris’s finer restaurants. I had made the reservations several months in advance. Housed in Gare de Lyon, a train station, the restaurant was built to accommodate wealthy travelers and to showcase the sights of France through paintings on the ceiling and walls. This was formal dining in a magnificent atmosphere of gold gilt and statuary. Smartly attired wait staff changed plating, silver utensils and glass ware depending on each course’s order. Randy had a lobster starter, and I ordered asparagus with warm olive marinade. The wonderful meal for the four of us unfolded from there. I had selected crepes Suzette for my dessert, and the flaming delight was prepared table side. It was a beautiful evening in a magical atmosphere.
Kathy and Melisa inside Le Train Bleu
Market, Mall, and May Day
On our last day in Troyes (pronounced “twah”), April 30, we had planned a leisurely day. After a lazy morning start, we went to the Troyes Market, which was a delightful experience. There were typical food stalls of fruits, vegetables, beef and fish; however, there were also stalls selling ready-made foods for take out, such as pickled herring, shrimp and calamari cocktails, potato mixtures of many kinds, etc. We enjoyed browsing the chocolate stands and the oyster shuckers station. We knew that if we lived here, this would be a regular stop for food, and we would eat well!
For the afternoon, we did something we have never done before on one of our overseas adventures–we went to an outlet mall! The one in Troyes is well known. Not unlike our American outlets, we enjoyed a warm day browsing in stores both familiar and unfamiliar. I was hungry, so we went to a buffet cafe with lots of choices and well-prepared entrees. I enjoyed spaghetti Bolognese and some quite delicious cream brûlée. Late afternoon was nap and rest time for Kathy and me, but our friends, Randy and Melisa, went to an outdoor cafe for drinks and to people watch. In the evening, we enjoyed a very good French meal (French onion soup for me, veal smothered with a mushroom sauce with oven fried potato wedges and green beans, and warm chocolate cake with vanilla sauce). There is no rush in France for the evening meal. They do not expect to turn over the table to someone else. Therefore, we capped a leisurely day with a leisurely meal and find ourselves ready for Paris.
Our train ride to Paris took almost two hours on a new, spacious train. Since it was May Day, a significant European festival, we found some prices were elevated–our cab ride to the train station was double in cost, for instance. Once in Paris, we purchased three day train passes and used the metro for our transportation needs. We checked into our hotel, whose entry was via a covered passageway filled with quaint shops and eateries. There are only eight such covered passageways remaining in Paris.
We had five o’clock tickets to a concert in La Sainte Chapell. This chapel was originally built to house relics from the passion of Christ. Floor to ceiling stained glass surrounded us in beautiful light as the strains of stringed music wafted through the air. We decided it would be hard to find a more beautiful venue for a concert. Security was tight; Paris is preparing for the Olympics soon to arrive.
After the hour concert, we walked to the still-under-reconstruction Notre Dame (from the fire). It will not be reopened until the end of the year. From there we walked into the Latin Quarter across the River Seine, our destination being the Luxembourg Gardens. Many folks were out, simply relaxing by the water pools. We took the metro back to the hotel, exhausted from a long day and enjoyed a good night’s sleep.
On Thursday, we ate breakfast. Our hotel is very well located, so we walked to our day’s destinations. The Palais Garnier, the Opera House, was spectacular! Multi-tiered with exquisite tiles and mosaics, huge golden statuary and brilliant chandeliers blended into a golden hall with beautifully painted ceilings. The opera hall itself was resplendent.
The Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, luxury department stores, were across from the Palais Garnier. We enjoyed seeing the beautiful stained glass dome in the Galleries and looking out from the top of Printemps for beautiful views of the city. We did some minor shopping, but basically enjoyed the views. We had a very good meal at a Brasserie in the area. Randy, our friend, and I ate great lobster rolls. Back at the hotel, Kathy and I took it easy, while Randy and Melisa did some more shopping in the covered passageways. Late in the evening, we went to a Hard Rock Cafe next to our hotel for snacks of nachos, a taste of home in Texas.
Randy enjoyed a cold brew from a two-handed beer glass.
Old Lumber
If you like half-timbered buildings, Troyes is for you! At the beginning of the champagne territory, Troyes is a wonderfully preserved old city. We were in a restaurant and Randy, our friend, noticed an old wooden spiral staircase. “1463,” the waiter proudly declared! One of the churches was begun in the 800’s. Our three day stay here affords us opportunity to explore the beauty of the “old.” Randy and Melisa arose early to take our rented van to the rental agency, only to find it had moved since we made the reservation. It took them some time to get the new address and the van delivered. All ended well.
Our hotel upgraded us to nice mini-suites and since it is located in the heart of the old Troyes, we are able to walk the cobblestoned streets almost everywhere. We stop and gawk at the amazing half-timbered buildings. Some of them have leaned quite a bit over the centuries. One alleyway is very narrow and the buildings so lean into each other that one cannot see the sky above. Once again, the city cathedral is impressive as are the two other large churches in the city. As we approached the cathedral, the warden was closing the massive gates. He was kind and told us we could have fifteen minutes inside to view the old stained glass windows. As we headed out, nuns were walking the aisles kindly asking folks to leave.
We have enjoyed our casual visits with folks from Europe. Politics is a topic they often broach. We also talk about their country and where they live and what that looks like. Interesting and informative, always! When we say we are from Texas…well, everyone knows about Texas! Our hotel desk concierge was excited. He has a dream of moving to Houston and working for the Rockets. He follows the team with passion.
Our service has been fabulous! At one hotel, the hotel clerk parked his car in a handicapped space, so that we could have that space upon our return. He watched patiently and as soon as we drove in, he was out and moving his vehicle so that we could park. We have numerous such kindnesses by staff we could relate. At breakfast, they know who we are and the room in which we stay. Amazing!
Mass and Chablis
On Saturday, April 27, we drove through more beautiful French territory as we traveled along the wine route that stretches from Bordeaux on the Atlantic to Switzerland through central France. Though we were only traversing a small portion of the route, our “short” trip north to Auxerre turned out to be a six-hour journey as we simply could not speed along while traveling through hardwood forests and hill country with the never-ending vibrant fields of yellow rapeseed. Then again, we would wander into a beautiful French country village. We saw farmers in fields, even a scarecrow. Entering Orleans, we took time to visit the St. Croix Cathedral. Not being able to find a parking space, Randy sacrificed his visit by dropping us off and driving around until we had completed our viewing.
We were intrigued by all we saw. As we drove, we began to see vineyards just beginning to green on the vine. Up hills and down valleys they plunged, some so steeply we speculated about the difficulty of harvesting the grapes. We had indeed hit the wine trail!
Auxerre is one of the principal stops on the wine trail, and we had a hotel there for the night. A river town with large house boats and high hills, Auxerre is a stately city. Towers and steeples dominate the cityscape. The next morning we walked up to the majestically positioned St. Etienne Cathedral. High above the river below, we arrived as morning mass was beginning. We stayed for the entire service, with a beautiful pipe organ playing, a large congregation participating in singing, prayers, and responsive readings, and respectful, attentive robed youth assisting the clergy throughout the service. We were impressed with the many young families in attendance. Children played and danced, their sounds absorbed into the massive building.
Auxerre and the surrounding area deserved more time, but alas, we had not planned it that way. Driving onward, we arrived in Chablis, the area around which produces the grapes for the wine by its namesake. The village is mesmerizingly charming. Rivers run through with waterfalls and village flowers were stunning. Vineyards rose into the hills all around. Everything was pristine. Being lunchtime, we found a restaurant that shouted “French.” Randy and Melisa, our friends, enjoyed croque monsieur (fried bread and ham and cheese topped with a soft easy-over egg) while Kathy and I ate a locally produced sausage with great dijon mustard–(Dijon is nearby)–and a chocolate soufflé with vanilla cream sauce. It was an enjoyable meal in a dream land setting. Of course, Chablis wine was excellent and appreciated! On we went towards Troyes.
Gold and White
The warm sun shone down on thousands upon thousands of lushly blooming French Broom Bushes as we drove through southern France toward central France. Their golden blooms swept up hillsides and grew out of chalk/granite cliffs along the way. They juxtaposed nicely with the fields of rapeseed (canola oil) in full bloom in bright yellow. The rapeseed fields stretched as far as the eye could see with newly planted fields in green breaking the flow.
Along the way the golds and yellows were joined by blooming white spirea and purple wisteria that flourished as they grew wild. Drooping branches of colorful flora spilled over embankments and flowed down hillsides. We were thankful for a van rented in Toulouse (nine passenger-they had nothing smaller). Randy, our friend, had plotted routes that were “the road less traveled,” and we moseyed through French villages that time had forgotten-quaint yet still living. The drive was exceptionally peaceful and stunning.
We arrived in Limoges, famous for its porcelain. We took time to enjoy the huge porcelain museum, learning about how the porcelain was made by hand and viewing the amazing collection of porcelain over the centuries that made Limoges prestigious. Journeying on this April 24, we arrived at our destination, Tours, for a three day stay.
Tours is on the Loire River and is central to the Loire Valley, home to many beautiful chateaux. Most were homes to nobility during the monarchy in France, but are open to the public today. We had plotted out our chateaux to visit. Since on another trip, we had previously visited the grand-daddy of them all, Chambord, we opted for others that made the online top five lists.
Villandry has magnificent enormous gardens. The creative use of herbs and vegetables in the planting was particularly interesting to us. Water features with cascading falls ran through the gardens and because the crowds were quite light, a tranquil feel settled upon us. The chateau was large and beautiful, but the meticulously planted kitchen and herb gardens became our main attraction.
Chenonceau, “the Queen’s chateau,” sits over the River Cher. Particularly beautiful, it was once home to the Queen of France, Catherine de Medici. Sitting high above pilings driven deeply into the river bed, it has a majestic silhouette as one approaches. Huge rooms adorn the interior.
Cheverny is finely furnished according to the various seasons and celebrations of the year. Descendants of the family who has owned the chateau for over 600 years still live there in one wing. We were intrigued by the decorations on the grounds that were carried throughout the chateau. Oversized whimsical bears and rabbits seemed to play amongst oversized eggs laying on the grounds or hanging from trees. Inside the chateau, stuffed rabbits were everywhere. The wall and ceiling paintings recalled a bygone era.
Our time was well used as Tours itself is filled with historic sites. Our hotel was located in the historic district and so walking about was easy. St-Gatien Cathedral is one of France’s largest cathedrals, and its gothic facade was impressive. We were most enthralled with the Basilica of St. Martin of Tours and quietly stood before the grave of this warrior bishop who is one of the heroes of western culture. He led an army in 732 AD that routed the Middle-eastern armies who were intent on overrunning all of Europe. The Battle of Tours drew a line in the sand, and 800 years later in the Reconquista of Spain and Portugal, the middle-eastern armies were driven from Europe.
We enjoyed driving along the Loire River to Royal Chateau of Amboise, which houses Leonardo da Vinci’s tomb, and Blois, a hillside city on the banks of the Loire River between Orleans and Tours. Both are beautiful and worthy of time. Our stay in the tranquil Loire Valley with its chateau treasures was grand!
When in Occitanie…
We had a four and a half hour train journey from Avignon to Toulouse–this was our first visit to this southern region of France, half way between the Atlantic and Mediterranean. The trains were packed. Europe is highly discouraging car and air travel with fees and taxes. New rail tracks are being laid and extra rail service has been added as well. France has a well laid out rail service plan and we had reserved rail tickets online prior to our trip. We printed the tickets at home and have had no problems. We passed by vineyards and flower strewn byways all along the train route. The orange poppies growing wild along the tracks caught my attention.
Upon arrival in Toulouse, we taxied to our hotel located on the main city square. We were very pleased with our hotel and its location. Service has been friendly, helpful and anticipating of needs along our entire journey. So many of our stereotypical paradigms of Europe, especially of France, are in need of change. Not cold nor rude nor sluggish, but just the opposite has been our experience. Some places in France accept small tips; others are clear–no tips.
Toulouse is the capital of the Occitanie region of France. It is very clean, and the buildings are imposing. It is not a hot tourist spot, but we found it very inviting. It is known as the “pink city” because of the extensively used terracotta brick. The flowers and flowering trees were profuse since we visited at the height of spring. Very nice indeed! The Roman Catholic Basilica was worth our visit. Large in scale, it housed paintings of the way of the cross and crucifixion of Jesus, painted from the perspective of Jesus, rather than that of the crowd/viewer. The main government building was large and ornate and impressive, especially lite up at night.
We had set aside for the next day a visit to the nearby medieval town of Carcassonne, France’s best preserved medieval fortress. We had no plan other than to visit. Usually, every facet of our travels is planned in advance, but not today. As we departed the Carcassonne city train station, we immediately came upon a river channel that was a series of locks. We watched in fascination as the water levels rose and lowered to allow vessels to move along the river. From there, we walked to a bus stop. Our friend, Randy, asked a bus driver if any of the buses went to the fortress. “This one” was the reply and, before we knew it, we stood before an astounding sight. The massive fortress walls with pointy topped towers enclosed an entire medieval city. This was not a simple old building; it was an entire fortified city. Upon passing the main gate, we found ourselves in a maze of narrow, cobblestoned streets with shops and eateries on both sides housed in idyllic buildings right out of a childhood story book. Small squares with statuary and fountains broke up the maze. The main church was beautiful!
We passed the time with joy while savoring the flavorful hot chocolate of a quaint chocolatier boutique. We were not sure how to get back to the train station, but the taxi stand had a taxi number to call and Randy, our friend, arranged for a pick up. Before we knew it, we were back in Toulouse. We ate dinner at a family-owned restaurant with a huge oven for the awesome pizza that was served. We were ready for our next adventure.
Unexpected in Provence
The weather was unexpected as we headed into sunny Provence. It was fifteen degrees cooler than average and the winds made it feel even cooler. We had not packed heavily for cold weather, so I told Randy and Melisa, our traveling friends, that I hoped they would not tire of my limited selection of cool weather clothing. Thankfully, it was sunny during our three day sojourn in Avignon, and we were able to be out and about easily.
Avignon is a typical Provençal city, walled and old. It is noted for the almost 100 year home of the Roman Catholic Papacy in the 14th century. The Pope’s Palace in the heart of Avignon is massive. This was Kathy’s and my third visit to this appealing city, so while Randy and Melisa toured the palace, we lallygagged in the back streets and parks of the city. In the evening of April 19, we stumbled into a fantastic gastronomical experience. Only one table was still available for the evening, and we took it. Not cheap, but wow! It started out with a pre-appetizer that was explained as “one perfect bite.” Five layers thick–blood orange cream on the bottom, Greek feta on the top, and watercress in the middle–it was designed to clear the palate as one savored the taste combinations on the tongue. Each successive course was delectable. My roast duck was the best duck I have ever eaten. The ambiance of old world French elegance and impeccable service in a candle-lit vaulted room reminded us that unexpected experiences can be the best.
We had planned to go to Aix-en-Provence on April 21, but the transportation time did not work out for us, so we substituted Nimes in its place. Once again, an unexpected delight! Nimes has stately buildings set on tree-lined boulevards with controlled streams cascading over waterfalls running the length of the boulevards. An ancient Roman Empire outpost, the massive intact temples, colosseum and statuary gave the immaculately clean city an imposing feel. We enjoyed strolling a large city park, its house chestnuts in full bloom. The weather in Nimes was delightfully sunny and warm. We all agreed the day was awesome. Now, on to Toulouse.
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The French Riviera
We arrived late in the evening in Nice and took a cab to our wonderful hotel. We were in need of a good night’s sleep and were thankful for very comfortable beds. The next morning we slept late and then walked to the nearby old town Nice. The Mediterranean was aglow with powder blue and azure waters. The old town had a weekly market and displays of food. French goods and flowers beckoned. Once we hit the maze of alleys and streets of old Nice, we were lost in wonder as shops of all kinds were eager to welcome us. We stopped at a bistro for a tasty lunch. Later, we saw a hat store and Kathy bought a stylish sun visor and Randy, our friend, a handsome “stetson.” Melisa, Randy’s wife, and I came up empty-handed. Later, Kathy and I headed back toward the hotel and Randy and Melisa decided to stroll the Mediterranean promenade. Our walk back took us by mounds of bird of paradise and bottlebrush in full bloom. In the early evening we regrouped and walked to a pizza house, known for having the “best pizza in France.” It was outstanding!
Nice is an elegant upscale city. Palm trees and exotic plants dot the landscape, and the architecture in pastel colors is stunning. Restaurants and outdoor cafes are abundant. On April 18, Randy and Melisa went on a tour of Monte Carlo (the mini state of Monaco) with its fabulous yacht harbor and expensive real estate and also to the mountain village of Eze, with beautiful views of the Mediterranean coast. Kathy and I spent our day at the Musée National Marc Chagall. This museum showcases the art of Marc Chagall, one of our favorite artists. His work is distinctive for its use of color and imagery filled with hidden meaning. His masterful works depicting the stories of the Old Testament of the Bible are/were enthralling. It was a grand time. We took a cab up the mile long hill on which the museum sat, but we walked back down to the hotel. At 7:30 PM we met Randy and Melisa at the hotel and went out for dinner. Randy wanted oysters and I wanted mussels and this restaurant obliged us both. This was also tactical as our wives do not prefer either, so we didn’t have to share :-)! We all agreed that Nice is a fabulous city and the French Riviera is all it is cracked up to be.
Randy to the Rescue
Feathers flying; Delft porcelain vases crashing; stroopwafel sales clerks screaming; bystanders ogling–Randy, our friend, quickly stepped forward to offer his assistance which was gladly accepted. Kathy had startled a pigeon by the door of the stroopwafel shop in Den Hague (The Hague) and it flew into the shop, swooping here and there and then flying to the large picture window facing the street filled with beautiful Delftware in the signature blue. The pigeon hit a large vase on a stand and it came crashing down cracking into a “1000” pieces. Randy slipped over the display barrier and gingerly stepped around Delftware. Towel in hand, he eventually ensnared the frightened bird and tossed it out the door where it took to the air with abandon. Applause ensued and the grateful staff gave Randy a tasty stroopwafel.
The Hague, The Netherlands Royal City, was our home April 14 and 15, after our wonderful stay in Amsterdam. Our hotel, a historic building in the center of the old town on a square around the city’s prominent church, was convenient to all the major sites. We enjoyed strolling the cobblestoned streets and loved popping into shops and places to grab a bite. The “vibe” was terrific, with people out and about. Being springtime, flowers and trees were blooming beautifully.
The next morning we took the tram, a short 20 minute ride, to Delft. We were in for a day! A storm blew up almost upon arrival. We made it to a quaint pub before the driving rain hit, then came the hail! We decided to ride out the storm in the pub and ordered drinks and bitterballen (the Netherlands’ national appetizer–balls of ground up meat, rolled and fried in bread crumbs). We had great conversations with other folks in the pub as we awaited the storm to pass, which it did. Delft is a beautiful city with old Dutch buildings and churches. The city square is quite appealing. We visited the new church, centuries old, to view to graves of the House of Orange, Holland’s ruling family. An interesting “trail” inside the church had markers and videos to explain the history of the Netherlands. (Holland is the largest state in the nation of the Netherlands and all the people are known as the Dutch.) We also spent time in the Old Church, the burial site of Johannes Vermeer, the great painter. An interesting tidbit–Dutch Reformed Churches do not have altars; chairs are arranged around the pulpit, the central feature of the church.
On April 16, we arose early to catch our flight to Nice, France. I took a quick glance at my emails and noticed I had a note from the airline saying due to unforeseen circumstances our flight had been cancelled. What to do? Our hotel manager quickly offered his assistance and within 30 minutes he had gotten us a refund, tickets on another airline–one of which we had never heard–Transavia, a subsidiary of KLM. He also got a taxi for us to the train station and tickets for the train to the airport–amazing. Transaviab turned out to be a great ride. We lost half a day at our destination, Nice, but we made it. Proper etiquette in Europe for trains is that exiting passengers have priority. Unfortunately, some folks from another continent tried to enter the train before those exiting could do so. They completely jammed the exit with huge suitcases and as a result many people trying to exit at the airport could not do so. Kathy, Randy and I were stuck on the train while Melisa was pushed out. The doors closed and we were separated. A kind Dutch youth told us how to exit the next stop and catch a train coming back to the airport. Eventually we were reunited with Melisa and proceeded on our day. We were thankful for cell phones.