Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Whoops!
Monday, November 7, 2016 – From Salisbury to Oxford
Our trip has been basically error and stress free, nearly everything working wonderfully as planned. Monday morning was different. We needed to take our rent car back to the rental company in Salisbury. We left with plenty of time in order to get gas, return the car and get a cab to the train station. We dropped Kathy and Rhonda at the train station with the luggage and headed to the gas station as indicated on the GPS (SAT navigation in Europe). Things started to go wrong when we arrived at the filling station and found it boarded up for renovations. Allen quickly reprogrammed the GPS for a new station, and off we went. It was on a round-about and we entered, but the gas tank was on the wrong side for the traffic pattern. I finally repositioned to get a gas pump and, in order to save time, Allen gave me his credit card to pay while he reprogrammed the GPS to the car rental agency. We have never had to show ID’s on this trip, except this time. I am obviously not Allen, and so they would not accept payment (Allen owes me money since I have been paying for the rentals, and that is why he wanted to use his credit card), so I had to run out and get Allen to come into the station. We finally were on our way, but the GPS got confused on the round-about and sent us the wrong way. Whoops! In the recalculating, the GPS got us into another round-about, but in the wrong lane. The traffic was so heavy I could not get over, and now we were in another wrong direction in very heavy traffic. After twenty minutes, we were finally back to the right direction and still one hour to get to the train station. However, we could not find the car rental agency and the GPS was no help. We called to the rental agency, and no answer; we stopped for directions several times and were sent in the wrong direction; we drove up and down streets since we knew we were close, all to no avail. Allen reprogrammed the GPS, and finally it found the Europcar rental agency. Off we went, only to find that it took us to the train station. Allen said we should tell our wives to buy new tickets since we would not make the train, and then I saw the taxi cabs and yelled, “Ask a cab driver to lead us to the Europcar agency.” Sure enough, that worked. We had the cab wait while I ran in to return the car keys and told the agent that we had nine minutes to make our train. The guy was quick, but the printer was not working properly. I begged, and he hand-wrote a signed statement that we had turned in the car. Off we went in the cab to the train station, but the road was blocked by a truck backing out of a warehouse. The truck finally moved, and then we came behind another truck doing the same thing. The cab driver said, “You guys can’t get a break.” Finally, we were off and, at last, arrived at the train station. Kathy and Rhonda informed us that the train had been delayed by several minutes. Through the turnstiles we rushed and to the train platform, just in time to catch the train. It was overcrowded, and Allen and I had to stand. We had one train transfer in order to get to Oxford. The new train was also delayed and so, with time to spare, Kathy went to the restroom. Unfortunately, the train arrived on time, and Kathy was not waiting at the platform. Allen and Rhonda took our luggage onto the train while I ran to the restroom area, yelling for Kathy. What panic as she and I ran to the train, with an impatient conductor forcing us onto the last car while Allen and Rhonda rode in the first car. I was exhausted from a stressful day driving on the opposite side of the road, maneuvering around round-abouts in heavy traffic in a Mercedes that drove differently than I am used to driving. Looking back, we realized that, in spite of it all, we made it to Oxford in one piece and as planned. God be praised!
Oxford is elegant and the architecture is stunning. We walked through the various colleges of Oxford University. Basically, the university is the city of Oxford. All of a sudden, our morning seemed far away. Our evening meal in an English Pub was grand. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Another Amazing Day
Sunday, November 6, 2016
Winchester High Street winds its way from the King Arthur statue through the old city gate to the Great Hall containing King Arthur’s Round Table. Along the way we passed a city market selling antique type products. Rhonda had never eaten roasted chestnuts, and Kathy and I were used to buying them from street vendors, and so, when we ran into a street vendor roasting them on a charcoal fire, we could not resist. Delicious.
When we entered the Great Hall, we were told that a concert was soon to begin. Sure enough, almost immediately we heard the voices of the London Philharmonic Choir singing as the singers entered the hall to stand under King Arthur’s Round Table, mounted on the wall above. The conductor called it a “pop up” concert because the choir simply decided to sing in the almost perfect acoustics of the Great Hall. There were no prior announcements or advertisements, and the people visiting the hall were the only guests. It was an unplanned, planned event and was another unexpected pleasure of our travels.
Heading back to Salisbury, we went straight to Salisbury Cathedral and gazed up at its majestic steeple. Entering, we learned that the Bishop of the Anglican Church was soon to lead the Sunday Evensong service along with the Cathedral Choir. Dressed in green and white, and lit by candle light, the choir was resplendent in harmony as they sang the psalms and liturgy. The robed young boys who stood in front of the choir had beautiful voices and wore cowls (pleated round collars) around their necks. Looking around at the wonderful woodwork, the high Gothic arched ceilings and the beautiful stained glass windows, the music washed through the soul. A beautiful worshipful time ensued. We were once again blessed with unexpected events on this sunny English day. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Living Like the English
Saturday, November 5, 2016 – Stonehenge and Winchester Cathedral
Night fell over Winchester, England, as the candles in the chancel reflected light in a darkening cathedral. We sat on 700-year-old choir stalls with the full men’s and boy’s cathedral choir. Leading the Saturday Evensong service, the choirs were in full stereophonic glory, and our ears were treated to majestic harmony. The pipe organ above us roared forth with such force that the vibrations could be felt and the reverberations could be heard for seconds as the sound bounced off the huge cathedral’s stone walls. It was an awesome moment in worship.
The day began with another thrilling adventure as we visited Stonehenge, the iconic stone monument over 5,000 years old. Possibly used for religious, astronomical, or community purposes, we walked the entire perimeter to get different angles of the pillars. The new exhibition hall was filled with informative displays about the monument.
We were thrilled with our day, believing we had experienced supreme examples of English existence. Yet, when we left Winchester Cathedral and walked out into the cold evening air, we were greeted with fireworks. It was National Fireworks Day in England, commemorating the failed attempt of Guy Fawkes to blow up the English Parliament on November 5, 1605. We soon saw a massive torch light parade winding its way toward a bonfire and fireworks display. It was a fun way to end a marvelous English day. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Wales
Friday, Â November 4, 2016 – Cardiff, Wales
Cardiff, Wales, is a delightfully pleasant city. The center city is pedestrian-friendly, and the Cardiff Castle is one of the United Kingdom’s best examples of medieval fortress building. The keep in the center of the complex, situated on a hill and surrounded by a moat, is especially attractive.
We arrived in Wales via ferry from Ireland. Once again, our trip was pleasant and the seas quite calm. When we debarked (alighted) the ferry in Fishguard Harbour, Wales, the train was literally right at the door. We traveled across Wales quickly, arrived in Cardiff, and hailed a cab. All safely packed into the cab, Kathy gave the address of our hotel to the driver. He looked at us in amazement and pointed down the street and there was the Marriott hotel right in front of us. We all laughed, unpacked the cab and went on our way. As has been the case in our travels, the people we have met are helpful and friendly and we have been blessed over and over again by them. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: The Jarvey Ride
Wednesday, November 2, 2016 – Killarney National Park
He was right out of an Irish illustration book. His red gray hair was covered with a green grey wool cap. Baggy work clothes hung from his stooped 80 plus-year-old body. A few snaggle teeth showed through his wide grin. He hummed an Irish tune intermittently with kind words to “Jack,” his old horse tethered to the jaunting car, the two-wheeled buggy that carried us through the Killarney National Park. In his strong Irish brogue, he told stories of days long gone: his uncle, a game keeper in the early twentieth century…his stone house, built for caretakers of the great 25,000 acre estate…the day Queen Victoria visited the estate…and on and on. He was a delightful man, still finding great purpose in life.
Killarney National Park is quite beautiful. A marble-lined lake reflecting the mountains is close by the huge estate mansion. The trees were a glorious riot of fall foliage. The 200 foot plus waterfall fell nearby. Part of the Ring of Kerry, the park is a respite from the hustle and bustle of the world and a testament to a former era of English/Irish life.
We traveled across southern Ireland for most of the day. We ended in an Irish pub in Rosslare Harbour on the Irish Sea. Once again, the food was great and the visiting between friends relaxing.
We have stayed in a few bed and breakfasts in Ireland, in addition to the hotels, and found them to be comfortable and in close proximity to where we wanted to walk and site-see. The made-to-order breakfasts were very good, and the hosts/hostesses were charming. Where else would you get a hug from the owner when you departed? We commented that we were able to get a great insight to everyday Irish life by staying in an Irish B&B, since the less formal atmosphere allowed for interaction among the guests. Our accommodations on the trip, prior to our arrival in Ireland, had been exclusively hotels and apartments. We have been blessed with good food and comfortable accommodations wherever we have stayed. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: The Road Less Traveled
November 1, 2016 – The Dingle Peninsula
Allen set our GPS to avoid toll roads in Ireland. In spite of the fact that he has a generous heart and would give the shirt off his back to help someone, I joked that he was being a tight wad. The result today as we drove the Dingle Peninsula, one of Ireland’s beautiful road trips, was that our GPS took us on a very remote drive. We were shocked at first, then amused. We were literally driving on a rut road, so narrow that the bushes on both sides scratched at the sides of the car. On and on we went, bumping here and there, laughing and wondering when it would come to an end. We could see the ocean below us. We were so alone and hoped nothing would happen to our car in such a remote place. All of a sudden, our GPS blurted out, “Light traffic area.” Rhonda joked, “She’s lucky she’s not a real person (the GPS) or I would choke her!”  Quickly, our laughing stopped, as a large truck approached us heading toward us.  There was no way we could turn around and I was not about to back up. Stand off. Soon the truck flashed its lights and backed up. We moved forward and found a small place to pull over so that the truck could squeeze by on the other side. It was an experience we will not forget!
The Dingle Peninsula is a beautiful place, surrounded as it is by the icy blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Mountainous with deep green valleys filled with sheep and cattle, the drive circles and criss crosses the entire peninsula. We found the Wild Atlantic Way, a portion of the drive, contained marvelous scenery. We explored the 2500 year old ruins of a fort perched on cliffs overlooking the ocean. It was a grand road trip.
The evening found us in Killarney. We explored some of the city and ended up eating at a restaurant owned by an area fishing fleet. All the fish served was fresh that day and we had trouble deciding what to order. I could not resist the squid taken from Dingle Bay. Delicious! We realized that we have eaten much seafood recently, and appreciated it immensely. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Cliffs of Moher
Monday, October 31, 2016
As we drove through the beautiful Irish countryside toward the Cliffs of Moher on the Atlantic coast of Ireland, we passed rolling green hills, first, with row after row of stacked stone fencing, later, with trimmed hedge rows, then again, stacked stone. All along the way, fall was at its height in golden trees. Occasionally, we would drive under archways of gold as the trees on each side reached across the road toward each other. The narrow roads would come close to sheep or cattle grazing in fields. We were amazed with all the ancient ruins along the way–towers standing in the middle of fields, stone churches overgrown with vines and the occasional castle on a hill. It was a great drive. I am getting used to driving from the right side of the car and doing everything opposite. Parking has been the hardest part of the driving experience, because it is harder to judge the turning angle from a narrow lane.
Once we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher, we were mesmerized with the beauty of the cliffs falling into the sea along a jagged coastline. The weather was wonderful, and the views clear. We walked up to an old tower at the top of one cliff to get spectacular views of the cliffs across the way and also around the bend. Awesome!
We have seen golf clubs in Scotland and Ireland with regularity. Today, we saw a golf course that was different than any I have ever seen. The best way to describe it is high green moguls (as in snow ski moguls) undulating across the course, not just a few, thousands. Tall grasses would sprout out in places, and the ocean lay to one side. We watched golfers maneuver through this jungle of grass. It must be a difficult course. The club house was beautiful.
We were in Tipperary and Limerick today. We sang, “It’s a long way to Tipperary,” and told rhymes, surprised by how much Irish culture was inculcated into our being. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Kilkenny Plus
Saturday, October 29, and Sunday, October 30, 2016
Our time in Kilkenny, Ireland, is splendid. We have attended a national food fair, taken a coastal drive, gone to a crystal making factory and eaten wonderful fare over the past two days. What a great place!
The Food Fair was entertaining and the booths were full of organic foods, regional eateries, informative displays and cooking demonstrations. We enjoyed watching Irish television chef personalities teach us how to cook for Christmas. The set was well done with a full kitchen and large screen monitors to show the chefs at work. We all were given recipes so we could replicate the foods at home. We will definitely be making the chocolate meringue and chocolate mousse Christmas cake at our home. Wandering the booths, we had enough tastings so that we were not too hungry for a meal. Have you even tried stinging nettle pesto or stinging nettle water or apple syrup? They are good!
The House of Waterford Crystal factory was interesting. We did the tour and saw each process that led to the making of a piece of Waterford crystal. Later, we drove a coastal road and enjoyed the views, stopping for some fresh seafood at a nice restaurant situated on the coast. This was the first time I have ever eaten seafood pie. We have heard that each coastal area has its own version. This one used red cheddar cheese, something else I have never eaten. I’ll be trying other versions, I am sure, as we journey to other coastal areas.
I had heard that Irish roads can be narrow, and we found many today as we drove the coast. Our friend Allen thought I got too close to the left side of the road–the side he was sitting on–since I was driving from the right side of our vehicle. We also got our first taste of driving along rock walls through the countryside under golden trees on a nice Irish fall day. Wonderful. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Bright and Beautiful
Friday, October 28, 2016 – Kilkenny, Ireland
A sunny, just right temperature day greeted us in thoroughly Irish Kilkenny. I don’t think it could get more Irish than this–Kelly green fields, signage in Gaelic, early Middle Ages architecture, Irish Pubs galore, spoon players on the street, Irish Food and Music Fair, Irish flags, castles and cathedrals–yes, this is Ireland. I even think I saw a leprechaun. 😉
We enjoyed walking the streets and looking into buildings and reading signage. Kilkenny Castle is right in the heart of the city. Magnificent. We walked the bucolic grounds, with green fields on gently rolling hills as far as the eye could see. Here and there school boys in uniform were playing the Celtic game, “hurling,” with the sharp clack of the stick on the ball. The trees boasted amazing fall colors, and our walk was delightfully peaceful, or “good for the soul,” as I phrased it.
We were in for a treat at the oldest pub in Kilkenny, known for its traditional food and music. Can you put yourself in a place that has been serving food and drink from 1324? And then hear an Irish story tune by a melancholy singer that fills the space as you eat an Irish feast? We were so blessed. It was a bright and beautiful day. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: The Book of Kells
Thursday, October 27, 2016 – Dublin, Ireland
We were mesmerized by the Book of Kells at Trinity University in Dublin. It was easy to see why it is acclaimed as the most precious cultural treasure of Ireland holding the largest collection of manuscripts and printed books in Ireland. First, the university itself is impressive, with massive columned buildings surrounding a huge courtyard. The Book is housed in a pavilion next to the Long Room, the main chamber of the Old Library on campus. Well over a thousand years old, the Book of Kells is an illustrated Book of the Gospels of the New Testament. Produced by three or four artists/scribes working together, the illustrations in the text are intricate and full of imagery depicting the majesty of Christ and His life. Nothing, but nothing, in the imagery is without meaning. It was obvious the artists were steeped in Christian knowledge and Biblical thought. The Book is made of vellum (calfskin) and the inks were dyed with natural ingredients and applied with stylus and quill. The Latin text is done in calligraphy, amazing in itself, but the art of the illustrations of the text on each page is what makes the eye dance. “Wow” is the best word. Obviously, because of the importance of the Book, we were able to view pages under thick protective glass, but the information in the archives gallery with blown-up facsimiles of the actual book was most informative. The Book survived the Viking invasions, many fires, thievery, and war until it was safely removed from Kells to Trinity University. Once finished, we were able to walk through the Long Room, a dramatic scene lined with marble busts placed down either side of the room. Two stories high with vaulted ceiling, over 200,000 of the ancient leather books reached heavenward in stack upon stack for over 200 feet.
Our evening was full of Irish entertainment at a local theatre. We sang and clapped along to familiar Irish tunes and unfamiliar ones as well. The band was excellent, playing traditional Irish instruments. The dancers were energetic and tapped quite well. Now I will sleep with the Irish music beat playing in my head. WEG
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