September 29, 2016

The air is fresh and crisp; the trees have a tinge of fall color; the mountains reflect in the lake and there is serenity and quiet. Gone is the madness that is the Oktoberfest in Munich–hello nature.

Hallstatt usually appears on those top ten lists of prettiest places in Europe, and it is easy to see why. The village is squeezed against and up the mountain on one side and borders a clear lake on the other. Ducks and swan ply the water along with small boats, none high-powered. Our hotel sits on water’s edge across the lake from the village, and we have sweeping views of the lake and mountains that ring it. It is as refreshing as it is spectacular. We are in the Austrian Tyrol and happy to be here.

Our meal tonight was fresh rainbow trout caught today in the river that flows into the lake. Buttered potato wedges and salad accompanied. I started off with a garlic soup made with fresh cream and butter. Delicious! The Austrian beer was quite good. Tonight we sleep with an open glass door onto our patio, so that we can breathe the wonderful air and sleep warmly under our feather duvets. Maybe I’ll count the sheep that I saw on the train ride here today. WEG

Mittenwald is a painted village high in the German Alps just past Garmisch-Partenkirchen. It is a simply delightful mountain locale. Known for the painted scenes, or pictures, on the buildings as well as its setting surrounded by jagged peaks, the village is serene, pastoral and quaint. We enjoyed the train ride to the village on our day trip out of Munich as we began ascending first through rolling hills with green fields, some holding flocks of sheep, to mountainous terrains with tall trees, some beginning to turn gold, to high mountain country near the tree line.

Our meal at a wonderful German restaurant with painted ceilings and wooden beams was more than delicious. I ate my first jäger schnitzel, a pork cutlet smothered with creamed mushrooms and a side salad with a dressing made with fresh cream that was so good I actually drank what remained. (Yes, I made sure no one was watching.)

The day was relaxing as we breathed clean mountain air in 64F temperature and sat in a park with a trickling fountain and beautiful flowers looking out at the surrounding scenery. WEG

Munich – September 26 and 27, 2016

I went to my first Oktoberfest in Munich with trepidation and reluctance, and this year marks the third year in a row that Kathy and I have attended. Oktoberfest in Munich is a blast! The mix of people in traditional dirndls and lederhosen with live music spread across fourteen huge tents and the festive decorations all across the enormous event space at the Theresaweisen Park are mesmerizing.

Munich is a great city with much to do. From the intriguing Middle Ages mechanical wonder of the glockenspiel at the Rathaus to the old Hofbrauhaus drinking and dining establishment to the fabulous Residenz of the Imperial Wittlesbach family to the castles and abbeys on the outskirts of the city, one can be quite involved with sightseeing. Our group spent the morning and early afternoon at the Oktoberfest and the afternoon at the Residenz. Its treasury of priceless art, crown jewels and artifacts left our heads spinning. Its enormous rooms with gold and tapestries and silk, crystal chandeliers and ceiling frescoes were wonders to behold. What a day!

We managed a table on the upper floor of the Hofbrauhaus one evening for a meal. The vaulted barrel ceiling painted in subdued colors and the upfront band and traditional dancers gave a great ambiance to our meal. I fell in love with the cabbage salad (vinegar based with caraway seed and bacon) and wished I had simply ordered three helpings and called it a meal. At over 400 years old, the establishment has quite a history and makes for a delightful stop when visiting the city. We were all happy to reach our hotel and put up our feet and get ready to enjoy another day. WEG

September 24 & 25, 2016

It’s Old Town Festival in Nuremberg, and the city is filled with tents and food carts along the major streets, and the main platz is filled with tidy rows of tents selling all sorts of foods and merchandise. Our two days here were filled with eating, exploring and lollygagging.

Often times, pictures of Germany feature Nuremberg because of its German character and history as being the seat of the Holy Roman Empire for centuries and then as Hitler’s National Socialist Party headquarters. We spent our time in the Old Town (Allstadt) and were able to worship at the magnificent and beautiful St. Lorenz Lutheran Church. Thunderous bells pealed for ten minutes calling people to worship. The mighty pipe organ wafted familiar hymns and tunes throughout the carved and vaulted ceilings. While in German, the service had a familiar sound and the time was reflective and deeply spiritual. The trek up the hill to the Imperial Castle Complex was strenuous. Emperors got horse drawn carriages–we got stairs and steep, cobble- stoned inclines. At a thousand years old, the castle complex is the most important medieval castle in Europe due to its Holy Roman Empire inhabitants over centuries.

Mike bought a belt and then found one at 1/3 the price in the market square. Kathy bought scarves in the market. Allen found gelato and circled back several times. I found German sausage and hard rolls and skipped breakfast so that I could indulge. Wonderful city and wonderful times. WEG

Idyllic Day

September 23, 2016

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is a fairy tale city in the central German countryside. Preserved from ruin in the wars that raged through the years, its medieval walls and gingerbread buildings, peppered with towers and steeples, stand intact. The cobble-stoned streets with running fountains beckon the traveler to explore. City platz (squares) with outdoor restaurants and flower-filled planters and window boxes bid the traveler to rest and stay awhile. With clear skies and 70 degree Fahrenheit temperature, the city was idyllic and wonder-filled.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is known for its charm and German character and for the Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas store with its wooden hand-carved decorations and extensive Christmas collections. It is also famous for the Holy Blood altar piece in the St. Jakob Lutheran Church, with a vile of the blood of Christ (a relic) imbedded within.

Our hotel was located inside the city walls, and thus we could explore at leisure. We also could eat at some of the wonderful cafes and restaurants located there. We were delighted to eat German food in a wooden-beamed eatery–hare; sausages; pork knuckle; beef goulash; sauerkraut (to die for); hot potato salad; spaetzle and potato dumplings were the local delights chosen among our group. Of course, beer, both heffelweissen (wheat) and dunkel (dark), was enjoyed with the meal.

We are happy that Mike and Sandra and Sherlene have joined Allen and Rhonda, Kathy and me on this journey. They could not have started in a more idyllic place than Rothenburg ob der Tauber! WEG

The Beefeater was a robust guy with a booming voice. “It’s not a restroom–you don’t go there to take a nap. It’s not a bathroom–you don’t go there to take a bath.” Scanning the tourists to the Tower of London, he bellowed, “You know out there to whom I am speaking. ‘It’s a toilet!’ Don’t mess with the English language!” With that introduction, we walked through 900 years of English history as we saw the Traitors’ Gate and the Bloody Tower and the graves of important figures of history and the Crown Jewels of England and many other sites in this fascinating building complex of English royalty and intrigue.

It was a great day in London. The weather was clear, and the temperature was nearly perfect. We walked along the River Thames; walked across both the London and Tower Bridges; lolly-gagged in the Borough Market–with its dizzying array of food products–and people-watched in Picadilly Circus–reminiscent of Times Square in New York City. Fleet Street, the old publishing center and the financial district of The City of London, were interesting. We absorbed much today.

Friends of Allen Krahn–ask him if he knows how the term “hang over” came about? Spoiler alert–the answer follows. On hanging days in the village green across from Hyde Park, multitudes, indeed, whole families would gather for the spectacle. Alcohol was consumed by some in excess, and they would end up sleeping in Hyde Park. So the drunk folks watched the hanging and stayed over, hence, they “hang over.” Such is the educational stuff of traveling. WEG

A Pub–Must be London

September 20, 2016

Our first meal in London was in The Constitution, an elegant English pub. What better pub food is there than fish and chips, unless it is bangers and mash? Ours came with pea mash and home-made bread and butter. We all convinced Allen Krahn to put the malt vinegar on the fish. His response? “Well, if that’s the way they do it…” (He liked it!) The Guinness for Kathy was slow tapped, just the way it is supposed to be. After a long day in the air from Houston, and the train ride into London, the Graumann’s and Krahn’s are worn out. Our hotel is well-placed in Belgravia, within ear shot of Big Ben’s chimes and Westminster Abbey to the east and Buckingham Palace to the north. Our journey begins! WEG

Lerici

Our rented vehicle, a Mercedes van that holds nine (we were upgraded) was a comfortable way for our six bodies (Berg’s, Krahn’s and Graumann’s) to travel Tuscany. It took us through hill and dale, and now we needed to return it to the Florence rental center near the train station. Dan drove and all of us navigated, except Charlotte who prayed. Roads are not well marked and, once in Florence, we needed to avoid the restricted zone, where non-authorized–we were not authorized–vehicles are forbidden and electronically ticketed with a hefty fine. The problem is that the train station borders the restricted zone. Having been in Florence before, I was well acquainted with the train station location, but getting there on authorized roads caused apoplexy. It may be possible we crossed one forbidden place. I will know in three months if a fine appears on my credit card, which is what happens in Italy. Thankfully, once we saw the stazione (train station) directional markers, we were able to navigate successfully to our destination. We had given ourselves plenty of time in case we got majorly lost, and we arrived over an hour early.

The trek to Pisa from Florence is via a crowded regional train. And crowded it was. Once there Dan headed out quickly to the leaning tower in order to take the climb. It is a memorable experience. The rest watched either Dan climb or the luggage. The Duomo (cathedral) and shopping rounded out the experience.

Back to the regional train we took the short hop to La Spezia where we will stay overlooking the Bay of Poets (Lord Byron wrote his poetry while he looked out upon the bay) and an ancient castle next to the Mediterranean in the small hamlet of Lerici. What a sight it is–outstanding!

PS. Dan had some unfortunate events during the day. First, he left his new and wonderful camera with precious memories captured on the chip on the train. It is gone, gone. Then, he was pick-pocketed of E200 (about $230) by gypsy women who entered the train behind him and exited the train after. An Italian man ran up hurriedly holding his own wallet and pointing and saying something we did not understand immediately. He was telling us the women pick-pocketed. Too late, Dan saw his empty wallet on the floor of the train car. Thankfully, his credit cards and passport were intact. Eventually, after the angst, Dan (and Charlotte) decided to let it go and enjoy the rest of the trip, which we shall.

WEG – September 6, 2015