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Raw Beauty
Wayne and Kathy Graumann below Cotopaxi Volcano, Ecuador, May 28, 2017
In all of our world travels, we have not had a day like today. Our long day was spent exploring Cotopaxi National Park. Mighty Cotopaxi, at 19,342 feet, is the second highest active volcano in the world. As such, climbing on the glacier to the top is forbidden. However, we were able to get to about 14,000 feet, close to the base of the ice. Doing so, however, was an ordeal, well worth the energy expended. The drive out of Quito was great with views of the Andes everywhere. It was a bright and clear day. As we began to climb higher towards Cotopaxi, we traversed changing ecological climates. First, were the eucalyptus trees; then, the pine with various pampas grasses; then, succulents and desert-like plants with no trees; then, wind-swept plains with yellow, then purple, and then orange flowers; and finally, nothing but volcanic landscape. The conical snow-covered peak of Cotopaxi was in clear view, a blessing not always available to visitors. As our day tour bus ascended higher, many cars were stalled out and most were turning around. The road consisted of hairpin turns on volcanic sand and rock with gulleys and ruts everywhere. We were told to hold onto our seats or we could be shaken out. Our guide mused that we were receiving a “Cotopaxi massage!” Once we arrived at the final stop up the volcano, we were given the opportunity to climb another 500 feet higher to a look-out point, the Jose Rivas Shelter.
Wildflowers in Cotopaxi National Park, Ecuador
Kathy and I were the seniors on this day tour; most were in their 20’s and 30’s, but we were game. We donned our sock hats and sun glasses, jackets and gloves. But when we stepped out of the bus, the wind was so strong we were almost blown over. Our tour guide said the gusts reached 60 mph. However, never to say never, we trudged upward. The wind was picking up volcanic sand and pebbles and hurling them into our faces. Some people were knocked down. About 1/5 of the way up, we said, “Done!” Going back was harder than going up, since we could not lean into the wind, so small sideways step by step we went down. Some of the younguns eventually came back as well. Once back in the bus, we realized how out of breath we were. Sand was caked to our faces and grit was in our mouths, but we were out of the wind. Yet, mighty Cotopaxi remained in clear view! It is an experience we will never forget!
Kathy Graumann, resting on the ascent to the Cotopaxi Volcano Shelter, May 28, 2017
On this day, we were able to look down the Avenue of the Volcanoes and see four volcanoes in clear view. Our guide said this is almost never to occur. As we stopped on the way down at Limpiopungo Lagoon, a clear mountain lake, we had clear views of the majesty of raw beauty all around us.
Wayne Graumann at Limpiopungo Lagoon, Cotopaxi National Park, Ecuador, May 28, 2017
As we left, we saw herds of wild horses and, amazingly, a large mountain fox, Zorro, trotted close to our bus. As foxes are quite reclusive, our guide declared, “We had a perfect day.” I agreed. Descending further, we entered a mountain climbers’ lodging establishment where we were treated to a delicious mountain trout dinner.
After almost ten hours of exploring, we arrived back at our hotel, content that we are still adventurous and enjoying the adventure, while also eager to relax and clean off the dirt. WEG
Exquisite
The weather is Quito is remarkably wonderful: 65-70F by day and 45-50F by night. Kathy and I stroll the streets past Ecuadorians in native dress and others in modern dress selling all sorts of items: plastic sleeves filled with apples or pears; lima beans in boxes; multi-colored shawls; bowler hats; ice cream and back scratchers, to name a few. The city is alive with people. Cars and buses vie with people in the narrow streets, the sidewalks being packed. El Centro is filled with colonial buildings, most in good repair and many quite handsome. Surprisingly, we do not find pharmacies or banks–which have been a constant presence in every country we have visited over the past several years.
The Church of the Society of Jesus, locally called, “la Compañía,” is our must-see for the day. To say that it is exquisite would be an understatement. Begun in the early 1600s, it is a baroque masterpiece. Considered one of the most beautiful churches in South America, its baroque splendor easily rivals its counterparts in Europe. Intricately carved and gold-leafed from floor to ceiling, with porcelain statuary adorning the altars, the church is a jaw-dropper. The ten side altars blend harmoniously into the whole, leading to the main altar. The gold ceiling reflects the light making a golden hue that gives a heavenly feel. We sit for a least an hour in silent contemplation of the faith that would produce such beauty.
We also amble through the Central Bank Museum, proof that banks do exist somewhere in Ecuador. It tells the story of coin minting, with artifacts, through the centuries in Ecuador.
Our hotel has pure hot water dispensers and anis tea. The tea helps with acclimating to the altitude and it works! Both Kathy and I are feeling good, maybe even exhilarated! Hmm, is it really anis tea? WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: One Last Look
November 11, 2016 – From the Cotswolds to London
Over the past two days we have thoroughly enjoyed the Cotswolds of England. It is a land of honey-gold stone buildings with moss-covered slate roofs. Beautiful and quaint villages are around almost every bend. Between villages are rolling hills and valleys where grazing sheep idle the day. Stone walls line the narrow roads between villages, and elegant manor houses are abundant throughout the countryside. Our cottage in Burton-on-the-Water has been lovely and spacious, a moment’s walk into the heart of the village where shops and eateries are abundant.
We drove up to Warwick, with its famous castle, right out of the Middle Ages storybook we read when we were young. One could see in the mind the knights in shining armor riding over the mote into the castle. We watched owls circle above our heads and land on a trainer’s arm. We saw many live peacocks in the peacock garden with its topiaries of peacocks around a spraying fountain. We walked the main rooms of the castle and marveled at the cross bows and the catapults.
We spent another day in the Blenheim Palace, the only non-royal palace in England. It is a marvelous structure and is the home of the Duke of Marlborough, the descendant of the great military general of England who led the armies of England to victory eleven times. As a result, the monarchy granted the first Duke money to build the palace on 5,000 acres that belonged to the monarchy. The only rent payment for the land is the presentation of a French flag to the monarch each year in a regal ceremony in Buckingham Palace in London. That is still the rent price to this day. The palace is stunningly beautiful. So are the grounds of the palace. We took time to enjoy the day with a leisurely stroll on our sunny day.
All throughout our trip, the trees have been in fall mode. This was especially true here in England. Driving through the Cotswolds, we often drove under golden tree archways, in some stretches for quite a length. Allen kept spotting pheasant, sometimes dozens meandered the fields close by. All of this shouted, “Autumn!” We spent the evenings in cozy pubs and quiet time by the roaring fire in our living space.
Our trip now comes to a close. We arrived in London today and fly home tomorrow after a God-blessed trip with wonderful friends. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: The Cotswolds
Tuesday, November 8, 2016 – From Oxford to Bourton-on-the-Water in The Cotswolds
We drove into the beautiful Cotswolds today. It was obvious we had entered this dreamy place. The hills and vales were sweeping; the rock walls were formal; the roofs were of slate; and the stone on buildings was honey gold, for which the area is known. It is the England of one’s imagination.
We are staying for several days in Bourton-on-the-Water in a wonderful rental cottage. The entry is through an ivy-covered arbor. The home is magnificent! Tonight, the fire is roaring in the fire place in our cozy sitting area. We are in the center of the beautiful village right by a stone walk bridge over the river. Idyllic! We explored the village and also drove to nearby Upper and Lower Slaughter. Wonderful, wonderful! Our evening meal was at a local restaurant. The food was delicious and the setting comfortable and stately. We sat near an English couple with whom we had an interesting conversation. The gentleman was a rugby player, and so Allen and I learned the rules of rugby. Now, we can watch and understand the game in the future. Visiting with locals has been a delight on this trip. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Whoops!
Monday, November 7, 2016 – From Salisbury to Oxford
Our trip has been basically error and stress free, nearly everything working wonderfully as planned. Monday morning was different. We needed to take our rent car back to the rental company in Salisbury. We left with plenty of time in order to get gas, return the car and get a cab to the train station. We dropped Kathy and Rhonda at the train station with the luggage and headed to the gas station as indicated on the GPS (SAT navigation in Europe). Things started to go wrong when we arrived at the filling station and found it boarded up for renovations. Allen quickly reprogrammed the GPS for a new station, and off we went. It was on a round-about and we entered, but the gas tank was on the wrong side for the traffic pattern. I finally repositioned to get a gas pump and, in order to save time, Allen gave me his credit card to pay while he reprogrammed the GPS to the car rental agency. We have never had to show ID’s on this trip, except this time. I am obviously not Allen, and so they would not accept payment (Allen owes me money since I have been paying for the rentals, and that is why he wanted to use his credit card), so I had to run out and get Allen to come into the station. We finally were on our way, but the GPS got confused on the round-about and sent us the wrong way. Whoops! In the recalculating, the GPS got us into another round-about, but in the wrong lane. The traffic was so heavy I could not get over, and now we were in another wrong direction in very heavy traffic. After twenty minutes, we were finally back to the right direction and still one hour to get to the train station. However, we could not find the car rental agency and the GPS was no help. We called to the rental agency, and no answer; we stopped for directions several times and were sent in the wrong direction; we drove up and down streets since we knew we were close, all to no avail. Allen reprogrammed the GPS, and finally it found the Europcar rental agency. Off we went, only to find that it took us to the train station. Allen said we should tell our wives to buy new tickets since we would not make the train, and then I saw the taxi cabs and yelled, “Ask a cab driver to lead us to the Europcar agency.” Sure enough, that worked. We had the cab wait while I ran in to return the car keys and told the agent that we had nine minutes to make our train. The guy was quick, but the printer was not working properly. I begged, and he hand-wrote a signed statement that we had turned in the car. Off we went in the cab to the train station, but the road was blocked by a truck backing out of a warehouse. The truck finally moved, and then we came behind another truck doing the same thing. The cab driver said, “You guys can’t get a break.” Finally, we were off and, at last, arrived at the train station. Kathy and Rhonda informed us that the train had been delayed by several minutes. Through the turnstiles we rushed and to the train platform, just in time to catch the train. It was overcrowded, and Allen and I had to stand. We had one train transfer in order to get to Oxford. The new train was also delayed and so, with time to spare, Kathy went to the restroom. Unfortunately, the train arrived on time, and Kathy was not waiting at the platform. Allen and Rhonda took our luggage onto the train while I ran to the restroom area, yelling for Kathy. What panic as she and I ran to the train, with an impatient conductor forcing us onto the last car while Allen and Rhonda rode in the first car. I was exhausted from a stressful day driving on the opposite side of the road, maneuvering around round-abouts in heavy traffic in a Mercedes that drove differently than I am used to driving. Looking back, we realized that, in spite of it all, we made it to Oxford in one piece and as planned. God be praised!
Oxford is elegant and the architecture is stunning. We walked through the various colleges of Oxford University. Basically, the university is the city of Oxford. All of a sudden, our morning seemed far away. Our evening meal in an English Pub was grand. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Another Amazing Day
Sunday, November 6, 2016
Winchester High Street winds its way from the King Arthur statue through the old city gate to the Great Hall containing King Arthur’s Round Table. Along the way we passed a city market selling antique type products. Rhonda had never eaten roasted chestnuts, and Kathy and I were used to buying them from street vendors, and so, when we ran into a street vendor roasting them on a charcoal fire, we could not resist. Delicious.
When we entered the Great Hall, we were told that a concert was soon to begin. Sure enough, almost immediately we heard the voices of the London Philharmonic Choir singing as the singers entered the hall to stand under King Arthur’s Round Table, mounted on the wall above. The conductor called it a “pop up” concert because the choir simply decided to sing in the almost perfect acoustics of the Great Hall. There were no prior announcements or advertisements, and the people visiting the hall were the only guests. It was an unplanned, planned event and was another unexpected pleasure of our travels.
Heading back to Salisbury, we went straight to Salisbury Cathedral and gazed up at its majestic steeple. Entering, we learned that the Bishop of the Anglican Church was soon to lead the Sunday Evensong service along with the Cathedral Choir. Dressed in green and white, and lit by candle light, the choir was resplendent in harmony as they sang the psalms and liturgy. The robed young boys who stood in front of the choir had beautiful voices and wore cowls (pleated round collars) around their necks. Looking around at the wonderful woodwork, the high Gothic arched ceilings and the beautiful stained glass windows, the music washed through the soul. A beautiful worshipful time ensued. We were once again blessed with unexpected events on this sunny English day. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Living Like the English
Saturday, November 5, 2016 – Stonehenge and Winchester Cathedral
Night fell over Winchester, England, as the candles in the chancel reflected light in a darkening cathedral. We sat on 700-year-old choir stalls with the full men’s and boy’s cathedral choir. Leading the Saturday Evensong service, the choirs were in full stereophonic glory, and our ears were treated to majestic harmony. The pipe organ above us roared forth with such force that the vibrations could be felt and the reverberations could be heard for seconds as the sound bounced off the huge cathedral’s stone walls. It was an awesome moment in worship.
The day began with another thrilling adventure as we visited Stonehenge, the iconic stone monument over 5,000 years old. Possibly used for religious, astronomical, or community purposes, we walked the entire perimeter to get different angles of the pillars. The new exhibition hall was filled with informative displays about the monument.
We were thrilled with our day, believing we had experienced supreme examples of English existence. Yet, when we left Winchester Cathedral and walked out into the cold evening air, we were greeted with fireworks. It was National Fireworks Day in England, commemorating the failed attempt of Guy Fawkes to blow up the English Parliament on November 5, 1605. We soon saw a massive torch light parade winding its way toward a bonfire and fireworks display. It was a fun way to end a marvelous English day. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Wales
Friday, November 4, 2016 – Cardiff, Wales
Cardiff, Wales, is a delightfully pleasant city. The center city is pedestrian-friendly, and the Cardiff Castle is one of the United Kingdom’s best examples of medieval fortress building. The keep in the center of the complex, situated on a hill and surrounded by a moat, is especially attractive.
We arrived in Wales via ferry from Ireland. Once again, our trip was pleasant and the seas quite calm. When we debarked (alighted) the ferry in Fishguard Harbour, Wales, the train was literally right at the door. We traveled across Wales quickly, arrived in Cardiff, and hailed a cab. All safely packed into the cab, Kathy gave the address of our hotel to the driver. He looked at us in amazement and pointed down the street and there was the Marriott hotel right in front of us. We all laughed, unpacked the cab and went on our way. As has been the case in our travels, the people we have met are helpful and friendly and we have been blessed over and over again by them. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: The Jarvey Ride
Wednesday, November 2, 2016 – Killarney National Park
He was right out of an Irish illustration book. His red gray hair was covered with a green grey wool cap. Baggy work clothes hung from his stooped 80 plus-year-old body. A few snaggle teeth showed through his wide grin. He hummed an Irish tune intermittently with kind words to “Jack,” his old horse tethered to the jaunting car, the two-wheeled buggy that carried us through the Killarney National Park. In his strong Irish brogue, he told stories of days long gone: his uncle, a game keeper in the early twentieth century…his stone house, built for caretakers of the great 25,000 acre estate…the day Queen Victoria visited the estate…and on and on. He was a delightful man, still finding great purpose in life.
Killarney National Park is quite beautiful. A marble-lined lake reflecting the mountains is close by the huge estate mansion. The trees were a glorious riot of fall foliage. The 200 foot plus waterfall fell nearby. Part of the Ring of Kerry, the park is a respite from the hustle and bustle of the world and a testament to a former era of English/Irish life.
We traveled across southern Ireland for most of the day. We ended in an Irish pub in Rosslare Harbour on the Irish Sea. Once again, the food was great and the visiting between friends relaxing.
We have stayed in a few bed and breakfasts in Ireland, in addition to the hotels, and found them to be comfortable and in close proximity to where we wanted to walk and site-see. The made-to-order breakfasts were very good, and the hosts/hostesses were charming. Where else would you get a hug from the owner when you departed? We commented that we were able to get a great insight to everyday Irish life by staying in an Irish B&B, since the less formal atmosphere allowed for interaction among the guests. Our accommodations on the trip, prior to our arrival in Ireland, had been exclusively hotels and apartments. We have been blessed with good food and comfortable accommodations wherever we have stayed. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: The Road Less Traveled
November 1, 2016 – The Dingle Peninsula
Allen set our GPS to avoid toll roads in Ireland. In spite of the fact that he has a generous heart and would give the shirt off his back to help someone, I joked that he was being a tight wad. The result today as we drove the Dingle Peninsula, one of Ireland’s beautiful road trips, was that our GPS took us on a very remote drive. We were shocked at first, then amused. We were literally driving on a rut road, so narrow that the bushes on both sides scratched at the sides of the car. On and on we went, bumping here and there, laughing and wondering when it would come to an end. We could see the ocean below us. We were so alone and hoped nothing would happen to our car in such a remote place. All of a sudden, our GPS blurted out, “Light traffic area.” Rhonda joked, “She’s lucky she’s not a real person (the GPS) or I would choke her!” Quickly, our laughing stopped, as a large truck approached us heading toward us. There was no way we could turn around and I was not about to back up. Stand off. Soon the truck flashed its lights and backed up. We moved forward and found a small place to pull over so that the truck could squeeze by on the other side. It was an experience we will not forget!
The Dingle Peninsula is a beautiful place, surrounded as it is by the icy blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Mountainous with deep green valleys filled with sheep and cattle, the drive circles and criss crosses the entire peninsula. We found the Wild Atlantic Way, a portion of the drive, contained marvelous scenery. We explored the 2500 year old ruins of a fort perched on cliffs overlooking the ocean. It was a grand road trip.
The evening found us in Killarney. We explored some of the city and ended up eating at a restaurant owned by an area fishing fleet. All the fish served was fresh that day and we had trouble deciding what to order. I could not resist the squid taken from Dingle Bay. Delicious! We realized that we have eaten much seafood recently, and appreciated it immensely. WEG
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