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Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: The Jarvey Ride
Wednesday, November 2, 2016 – Killarney National Park
He was right out of an Irish illustration book. His red gray hair was covered with a green grey wool cap. Baggy work clothes hung from his stooped 80 plus-year-old body. A few snaggle teeth showed through his wide grin. He hummed an Irish tune intermittently with kind words to “Jack,” his old horse tethered to the jaunting car, the two-wheeled buggy that carried us through the Killarney National Park. In his strong Irish brogue, he told stories of days long gone: his uncle, a game keeper in the early twentieth century…his stone house, built for caretakers of the great 25,000 acre estate…the day Queen Victoria visited the estate…and on and on. He was a delightful man, still finding great purpose in life.
Killarney National Park is quite beautiful. A marble-lined lake reflecting the mountains is close by the huge estate mansion. The trees were a glorious riot of fall foliage. The 200 foot plus waterfall fell nearby. Part of the Ring of Kerry, the park is a respite from the hustle and bustle of the world and a testament to a former era of English/Irish life.
We traveled across southern Ireland for most of the day. We ended in an Irish pub in Rosslare Harbour on the Irish Sea. Once again, the food was great and the visiting between friends relaxing.
We have stayed in a few bed and breakfasts in Ireland, in addition to the hotels, and found them to be comfortable and in close proximity to where we wanted to walk and site-see. The made-to-order breakfasts were very good, and the hosts/hostesses were charming. Where else would you get a hug from the owner when you departed? We commented that we were able to get a great insight to everyday Irish life by staying in an Irish B&B, since the less formal atmosphere allowed for interaction among the guests. Our accommodations on the trip, prior to our arrival in Ireland, had been exclusively hotels and apartments. We have been blessed with good food and comfortable accommodations wherever we have stayed. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: The Road Less Traveled
November 1, 2016 – The Dingle Peninsula
Allen set our GPS to avoid toll roads in Ireland. In spite of the fact that he has a generous heart and would give the shirt off his back to help someone, I joked that he was being a tight wad. The result today as we drove the Dingle Peninsula, one of Ireland’s beautiful road trips, was that our GPS took us on a very remote drive. We were shocked at first, then amused. We were literally driving on a rut road, so narrow that the bushes on both sides scratched at the sides of the car. On and on we went, bumping here and there, laughing and wondering when it would come to an end. We could see the ocean below us. We were so alone and hoped nothing would happen to our car in such a remote place. All of a sudden, our GPS blurted out, “Light traffic area.” Rhonda joked, “She’s lucky she’s not a real person (the GPS) or I would choke her!” Quickly, our laughing stopped, as a large truck approached us heading toward us. There was no way we could turn around and I was not about to back up. Stand off. Soon the truck flashed its lights and backed up. We moved forward and found a small place to pull over so that the truck could squeeze by on the other side. It was an experience we will not forget!
The Dingle Peninsula is a beautiful place, surrounded as it is by the icy blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Mountainous with deep green valleys filled with sheep and cattle, the drive circles and criss crosses the entire peninsula. We found the Wild Atlantic Way, a portion of the drive, contained marvelous scenery. We explored the 2500 year old ruins of a fort perched on cliffs overlooking the ocean. It was a grand road trip.
The evening found us in Killarney. We explored some of the city and ended up eating at a restaurant owned by an area fishing fleet. All the fish served was fresh that day and we had trouble deciding what to order. I could not resist the squid taken from Dingle Bay. Delicious! We realized that we have eaten much seafood recently, and appreciated it immensely. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Cliffs of Moher
Monday, October 31, 2016
As we drove through the beautiful Irish countryside toward the Cliffs of Moher on the Atlantic coast of Ireland, we passed rolling green hills, first, with row after row of stacked stone fencing, later, with trimmed hedge rows, then again, stacked stone. All along the way, fall was at its height in golden trees. Occasionally, we would drive under archways of gold as the trees on each side reached across the road toward each other. The narrow roads would come close to sheep or cattle grazing in fields. We were amazed with all the ancient ruins along the way–towers standing in the middle of fields, stone churches overgrown with vines and the occasional castle on a hill. It was a great drive. I am getting used to driving from the right side of the car and doing everything opposite. Parking has been the hardest part of the driving experience, because it is harder to judge the turning angle from a narrow lane.
Once we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher, we were mesmerized with the beauty of the cliffs falling into the sea along a jagged coastline. The weather was wonderful, and the views clear. We walked up to an old tower at the top of one cliff to get spectacular views of the cliffs across the way and also around the bend. Awesome!
We have seen golf clubs in Scotland and Ireland with regularity. Today, we saw a golf course that was different than any I have ever seen. The best way to describe it is high green moguls (as in snow ski moguls) undulating across the course, not just a few, thousands. Tall grasses would sprout out in places, and the ocean lay to one side. We watched golfers maneuver through this jungle of grass. It must be a difficult course. The club house was beautiful.
We were in Tipperary and Limerick today. We sang, “It’s a long way to Tipperary,” and told rhymes, surprised by how much Irish culture was inculcated into our being. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Kilkenny Plus
Saturday, October 29, and Sunday, October 30, 2016
Our time in Kilkenny, Ireland, is splendid. We have attended a national food fair, taken a coastal drive, gone to a crystal making factory and eaten wonderful fare over the past two days. What a great place!
The Food Fair was entertaining and the booths were full of organic foods, regional eateries, informative displays and cooking demonstrations. We enjoyed watching Irish television chef personalities teach us how to cook for Christmas. The set was well done with a full kitchen and large screen monitors to show the chefs at work. We all were given recipes so we could replicate the foods at home. We will definitely be making the chocolate meringue and chocolate mousse Christmas cake at our home. Wandering the booths, we had enough tastings so that we were not too hungry for a meal. Have you even tried stinging nettle pesto or stinging nettle water or apple syrup? They are good!
The House of Waterford Crystal factory was interesting. We did the tour and saw each process that led to the making of a piece of Waterford crystal. Later, we drove a coastal road and enjoyed the views, stopping for some fresh seafood at a nice restaurant situated on the coast. This was the first time I have ever eaten seafood pie. We have heard that each coastal area has its own version. This one used red cheddar cheese, something else I have never eaten. I’ll be trying other versions, I am sure, as we journey to other coastal areas.
I had heard that Irish roads can be narrow, and we found many today as we drove the coast. Our friend Allen thought I got too close to the left side of the road–the side he was sitting on–since I was driving from the right side of our vehicle. We also got our first taste of driving along rock walls through the countryside under golden trees on a nice Irish fall day. Wonderful. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Bright and Beautiful
Friday, October 28, 2016 – Kilkenny, Ireland
A sunny, just right temperature day greeted us in thoroughly Irish Kilkenny. I don’t think it could get more Irish than this–Kelly green fields, signage in Gaelic, early Middle Ages architecture, Irish Pubs galore, spoon players on the street, Irish Food and Music Fair, Irish flags, castles and cathedrals–yes, this is Ireland. I even think I saw a leprechaun. 😉
We enjoyed walking the streets and looking into buildings and reading signage. Kilkenny Castle is right in the heart of the city. Magnificent. We walked the bucolic grounds, with green fields on gently rolling hills as far as the eye could see. Here and there school boys in uniform were playing the Celtic game, “hurling,” with the sharp clack of the stick on the ball. The trees boasted amazing fall colors, and our walk was delightfully peaceful, or “good for the soul,” as I phrased it.
We were in for a treat at the oldest pub in Kilkenny, known for its traditional food and music. Can you put yourself in a place that has been serving food and drink from 1324? And then hear an Irish story tune by a melancholy singer that fills the space as you eat an Irish feast? We were so blessed. It was a bright and beautiful day. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: The Book of Kells
Thursday, October 27, 2016 – Dublin, Ireland
We were mesmerized by the Book of Kells at Trinity University in Dublin. It was easy to see why it is acclaimed as the most precious cultural treasure of Ireland holding the largest collection of manuscripts and printed books in Ireland. First, the university itself is impressive, with massive columned buildings surrounding a huge courtyard. The Book is housed in a pavilion next to the Long Room, the main chamber of the Old Library on campus. Well over a thousand years old, the Book of Kells is an illustrated Book of the Gospels of the New Testament. Produced by three or four artists/scribes working together, the illustrations in the text are intricate and full of imagery depicting the majesty of Christ and His life. Nothing, but nothing, in the imagery is without meaning. It was obvious the artists were steeped in Christian knowledge and Biblical thought. The Book is made of vellum (calfskin) and the inks were dyed with natural ingredients and applied with stylus and quill. The Latin text is done in calligraphy, amazing in itself, but the art of the illustrations of the text on each page is what makes the eye dance. “Wow” is the best word. Obviously, because of the importance of the Book, we were able to view pages under thick protective glass, but the information in the archives gallery with blown-up facsimiles of the actual book was most informative. The Book survived the Viking invasions, many fires, thievery, and war until it was safely removed from Kells to Trinity University. Once finished, we were able to walk through the Long Room, a dramatic scene lined with marble busts placed down either side of the room. Two stories high with vaulted ceiling, over 200,000 of the ancient leather books reached heavenward in stack upon stack for over 200 feet.
Our evening was full of Irish entertainment at a local theatre. We sang and clapped along to familiar Irish tunes and unfamiliar ones as well. The band was excellent, playing traditional Irish instruments. The dancers were energetic and tapped quite well. Now I will sleep with the Irish music beat playing in my head. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: “The Troubles”
Wednesday, October 27, 2016 – Belfast and Dublin
The polite name for the tumult of political, socio-economic and religious murder and mayhem that rocked Northern Ireland at the end of the 20th century, a time many of us remember, is “The Troubles.” Belfast was at the center of the troubles. What an intriguing morning we experienced, taking a “Black Cab” tour of the city that still vividly recalls those days! We went through Protestant areas of the city and saw memorials to people killed during that time. We went one major street over and drove through Catholic areas and saw memorials to people killed during that time. We drove along walls and through gates that still separate the communities. The gates still close at certain times of the evening and for major events. We stopped several times to explore and take pictures, once along a major “peace lane,” a wall erected to keep the peace. Covered with official words of peace and love, people today still write personal messages on the wall. While far too complex to describe the reasons for “The Troubles,” the issues mainly resolved with the signing of a quasi-peace treaty by major leaders of each side, whom most people trusted.
Today, Belfast and Northern Ireland are moving forward. We saw signs of growth and progress in the city. Tour boats are starting to call in the ports, and tourists have returned. Tensions have tempered considerably, while suspicions remain. As our cab driver/tour director said, “It will take two generations for this to be past history. Too many living people have fathers, uncles, sons, daughters or wives who died, many innocently, for it to go away quickly.”
Our journey via train from Belfast to Dublin was another wonderful trip through the Irish countryside. Once in Dublin, we quickly settled into our rooms in our hotel. Since it is located close to most of the major sites in the city, we walked across the bridge nearby into the Temple Bar area, noted for its many Irish pubs. Hungry, we went into one of the historic pubs, Quays, for a wonderful meal of Irish Beef Stew with Guinness broth, fish stew in a cheese broth and mussels steamed in a hearty cream and vegetable broth. As usual, Kathy opted for the dark beer, in this case Guinness, and Allen and I for the much lighter lager, this time Carlsberg. As I finish this blog and prepare for sleep, window open to let in the fresh cool breeze, I hear Irish music wafting through the air, I believe from the Temple Bar area across the river. It makes me want to dance, a good way to end an emotional and thoroughly provoking day. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: One Last Look
Tuesday, October 25, 2016
We boarded the train for the journey from Edinburgh to Cairnryan on the coast facing Northern Ireland. The train ride was delightful, as train rides can be. Since the train never reached a high speed, we rolled along through hill and vale. Rich green pastures held vast flocks of sheep, some with black heads and others with white heads. Farms were separated with rugged rock walls that criss-crossed the countryside. Brooks and streams meandered across the plain. In the distance we could see the high hills of the highlands. The trees were in fall color, and we marveled at the forests of “Christmas trees” that were resplendent in silver green foliage. The lochs (lakes) beckoned with icy blue water. We knew we were in lightly-traveled Scotland because tree and bush branches hit the side of the train as it passed. One friendly traveler told our friend Rhonda that this part of Scotland has not changed over the years. We were crossing a valley above the tree line on an arched stone bridge when the train slowed to a stop. It was quite scenic, although we briefly wondered what would happen if the train had a problem and we were stuck on the bridge.
It was a beautiful trip and when the train reached the end of the line and we debarked, we realized that we were pretty much in the middle of nowhere and there were no taxis or buses. We needed to get from the station to the ship port for our ferry across to Belfast, Northern Ireland. Some people might panic in that type of situation, but we are seasoned enough to remain calm. Sure enough, I asked a mother with her children how to get to the port, and she offered to call a cab for us. Yeah! In about five minutes, we were on our way.
The only way to describe our crossing of the Irish Sea via ferry is plush. We were totally surprised. Complimentary food and wine, leather chairs, spa with massage, duty free shops and casino were a few of the amenities. I promptly fell asleep in a recliner in front of a large screen showing a burning fire place. We arrived in Belfast, Northern Ireland, in the mid evening after a delightful travel day. We promptly went to the hotel restaurant for the evening meal. We knew we were in Ireland–meat pie; pork stuffed with apple and walnut, and seafood chowder. We are going to bed full and happy. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Stately Edinburgh
For the past two days we have reveled in the beauty of Edinburgh, Scotland. We walked the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle high on the hill to The Palace of Holy Rude, home to the parliament of Scotland way down at the bottom of the hill. We moseyed along Princes Street with its varied shopping venues and saw the statues of the various authors and poets who have called Edinburgh home. The Scott Memorial is especially memorable because of its height and intricate stone work. We loved walking in the Princes Street Gardens with falling leaves in a golden hue and sunlight on a pleasant day.
We have found the people of Scotland extremely friendly and helpful. Occasionally, men in kilts would walk down the street and we could hear bagpipe music wafting through the air as we walked along.
We took a short train ride to Stirling, just north of Edinburgh, to experience this ancient capital of Scotland. Once again, it was up the hill to the castle and down the hill to the old town. While we did not see him, we read in the paper that Prince William was at Stirling Castle the day we were there. What, no tea and scones with the prince? If you are a fan of the movie, “Braveheart,” you would know Stirling because it was the center of the battles fought in the movie, and there is a magnificent monument just outside the city on a high hill honoring this national hero, William Wallace.
As is often true, more days in a certain place would be welcome, but the time we spent was wonderful. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: The Canals of…Copenhagen
Friday, October 21, 2016
It was a rainy day in the morning in Copenhagen, and we decided to take a canal ride. It is amazing how many canals there are in the city–not as many as in Venice, more like Amsterdam. We cruised by many of the city landmarks and picked out a few we wanted to revisit. When the sun came out, people filled the squares and outside cafes in order to catch the welcome rays.
We learned that the Danish people do not eat breakfast as we know it. They eat lightly. I suppose that is why we call a sweet roll a “Danish.” That is about all they eat. Try as we might, we could not find a hot breakfast anywhere.
We appreciated the cleanliness and simplicity of design that we saw around the city. The performing art centers were on the water and filled with glass and straight lines. The old buildings were also more simply designed as there is not much gothic, baroque or rococo architecture to be found.
Here are a few adjectives to describe the Copenhagen we experienced–friendly, inviting, clean, pedestrian- and bike-friendly, expensive, water-centered, confident, efficient, urbane, educated. WEG
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