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Kathy and I love San Francisco. Today we were able to return, but from a different angle. Rather than staying in the city, we chose to stay across the bay in Larkspur Landing and take the ferry across the bay, past Alcatraz, and into the Ferry Terminal along the Embarcadero. Our hotel is in a bayside shopping and dining village and only a ten minute walk to the ferry. The ride this morning, in the fog, took us only 30 minutes. The views of the Richmond Bridge and the double decker Bay Bridge were clear, but the Golden Gate Bridge was hazy in the fog. The skyline of San Francisco is simply stunning and beautiful. Once on the ferry terminal with its myriad shops and eateries, we were happy to discover a farmer’s market in progress as well. I could have stopped at every stall and gotten something to eat, but refrained as I had several San Francisco treats that were on my “to do list” for the day.

*Macaroons–not just any macaroons, mind you, but the ones from one bakery in China Town. They are moist and coconut filled and covered in dark chocolate. Could my memory locate the bakery and would they still sell macaroons? When it comes to food, my memory is a lockbox and we walked right to the bakery, Macaroons–check. By the way, walking up the steep hills of San Francisco more than took off the calories from the macaroons. This is the kind of exercise I like. Cool weather (65F) and beautiful and interesting sites and treats at the end.

*Cioppino–Chip-een-o is an old Italian San Francisco fish stew that got its name from the fishermen chipping in some of their day’s catch for the evening meal. One restaurant on Fisherman’s Wharf has my favorite cioppino. We got an outdoor table and I made a royal mess cracking the crab shells, but the taste was heavenly.

*Crepes–on Pier 39, and you watch them make yours. This was my dessert and it was mm-m mm-m good. Filled with bananas and strawberries, whipped cream and chocolate, it was a winner. True to form, for those of you who have followed this blog, my wife went for ice cream while I went for pastry.

It felt good to revisit this beautiful city and revisit some of my favorite San Francisco treats. WEG

So Different and Yet the Same
What is so different?
1. Our lodging: We went from California rustic environmentally chic in Big Sur (which was wonderful) to California uptown modern lux in Monterey. When we arrived at our lodging in Monterey we were pleasantly surprised to find that we had been upgraded—why, we do not know—but upgraded still the same. We had to wait awhile until the room was finished being cleaned, but the clerk assured us that it was worth the wait. And indeed, it was. It was not a room but the presidential suite! It is two floors of absolute comfort and luxury with a huge patio overlooking Monterey Bay, Fisherman’s Wharf and the yacht harbor. We went from a bathroom so small, leaving the door open allowed your behind to have room to wiggle, to a bathroom suite so large our whole family, grandkids included, could fit in (none of them are with us so we have it all to ourselves). Oh my, oh my, how wonderful.
2. The Ambiance: We went from rugged, big timbered, crashing ocean on cliff-lined shores scenery to sandy bay shores. We went from wild flowered hillsides to planned gardens and huge pots filled with blooming flowers of every description. We went from aloneness to people-filled streets. We went from simple pleasures to choices galore. We took a refreshment break sitting around an outdoor fire pit, the flames shooting from the glass rocks, and gathered some warmth on a cool, yet sunny day. We browsed the galleries and shops in beautiful Carmel-by-the-Sea—a quaint town that is stunning in many ways and very close to Monterey. We had a hard time making a decision as to which wonderful fish restaurant to choose along Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey. When we returned to the hotel, the concierge asked where we had eaten and didn’t think we chose the right one—we enjoyed it, none the less.
What is the same?
1. The climate: How wonderful it is to be in late July and the temperatures are in the low 70’s F during the day, if not cooler, and in the low 50’s F at night. And the sun is shining! No sweat, no humidity, just wonderful weather.
2. The flowers—They are blooming and abundant all along the journey and they are beautiful whether on hillsides or in gardens or street plantings.
3. The ocean—It never stops being a wonderful sight. WEG

High Coast Country
July 24, 2013

Big Sur rightly has a reputation for nature and tranquility at its finest. Perched high on the cliffs along the Pacific coast between Cambria and Monterrey, Big Sur is not a city, but rather a strip of land in the high redwood forest overlooking the ocean far below. It is also a state of mind–an ethereal place–where fog drifts among the majestic trees as the sound of huge ocean waves wafts over the landscape. Here you can be lost in time and space and at the same time feel connected and grounded.

We walked a road less traveled as we wound up the coastal mountain above our lodging. At the bottom, we could touch the huge trunks of the towering redwoods and as we traversed higher we realized that our cliff side walk had led us to the top branches of the very same trees. Gentle waterfalls and mountain deer were all close at hand. And the views of the Pacific over a thousand feet below were no less than spectacular, especially to see the huge waves gather their might off shore as they marched toward the shore. And the colors–dark green of the trees, verdant green of of the hills, deep blue of the ocean turning to turquoise as it neared the shore, yellow of the flowers and grey of the drifting fog mixed with white of the clouds–would have made any artist eager to reproduce the sight. And we were above it all looking down and we were alone–all alone–and lost in our thoughts.

Our lodging is on the national register of historic sites and is run by a foundation dedicated to keeping it in its original state. It might not be for everyone, but we are having a glorious time. Everything is so California–while rustic, it is rustic with style–nothing uncomfortable, yet in every detail, antique and quaint…like original hand-hewn doors that can be made into half doors with the top half latched to the wall with a hook…like candle light dining in quaint rooms with a fire place…like every window having a view of something beautiful…like quiet rules and no children allowed (unless you book an entire wing to contain their noise)…like no television, radio or internet or sodas or unhealthy food…like creaky wooden floors and small bathrooms…like high comfortable beds with wonderful bedding…like no keys to rooms because they do not lock from the outside but are secured at night with an old fashioned latch…like rocks on the floorboard to be used as doorstops to keep interior doors from tilting open. (In case you were wondering, my wife did not drag me to some commune.) You probably get the picture and it all seems to sum up what Big Sur is all about. WEG

Sand and Olallieberries

The area around San Luis Obispo, California, is delightful. Vineyards and wineries abound, the coastal mountains and Pacific Ocean afford wonderful views and the old city with Craftsman and Spanish architecture is filled with shops and restaurants. The drive to and from SLO along the Pacific Coast Highway (California 1) is awesome, with waves crashing into the rock-studded shore and the coastal mountains rising above the highway.

Close to SLO are the Oceano sand dunes–the only place along the California Pacific that allows motorized recreational vehicle traffic. Kathy and I rented a morning drive in a Prowler high power, low to the ground, two seat buggy and took off to the dunes for what I assumed would be a fun and easy drive. Mind you, I have never driven such a vehicle before and no one told me the dunes were endless and rolling and HIGH and STEEP and no laid out path. Kathy prayed OUT LOUD as we hurtled down 80 foot drops–I had no choice but to take them and to accelerate quickly to make the next rise or (1.) Get buried in sand and stuck; (2.) Risk sliding sideways in the soft sand on the steep dunes and overturning the cart. I do not like heights and this was one height after another–it was a roller coaster without rails. Thankfully, I found a relatively flat area and tooled around there for a while. Then it was time to head back and we had to find a position pole to locate ourselves on a map. As you probably guessed, in my concentration on staying alive and listening to Kathy alternately pray and scream, I had traveled far from base and had to take a more direct route back because of time limitation. This meant more and worse dunes. We skirted by one monster–a giant doodlebug hole–by staying on the precipice and running at top speed to keep from slipping into the abyss. It was so steep and deep that I feared if we slipped in they would need to bring in a helicopter to ferry us out and I actually wondered how much that would cost!? Back at the hotel, Kathy and I were so covered in sand that we had to shampoo our hair several times and the sand had gotten to places that surprised me. Kathy told me she enjoyed our two and a half hour adventure.

Traveling on to Cambria on CA-1, we felt relaxed and hungry. The beauty of the surroundings were inspiring. We stopped in Cambria and ate olallieberry pie, an area speciality. This berry is a cross between a blackberry and a raspberry. It went down smoothly with French vanilla ice cream. What a day–sand and olallieberries! WEG

It is a fast clip going down west Texas highways doing 80 mph–and not speeding. I did a double take when I saw the speed signs and realized cars were zipping around me with my piddling 70 mph. Since I somehow left my drivers license at home, I was driving carefully under the posted speed limits until the mail brings my license to our hotel in Phoenix.

West Texas still looks wonderful with its rolling hills and limestone cliffs. Driving through Texas reminded us not only of the vastness of the state but also the variety of geography and culture. Fredericksburg with its German heritage easily visible and the wineries and peach groves are not the same as Austin suburban sprawl into the Texas hills and the area around Sonora as it flattens out into the vast wilderness of far west Texas is different still. One thing remains constant however–the friendly and helpful people that give Texas a home like atmosphere wherever one travels. WEG

The Sutton County Courthouse in Sonora, Texas

We all say it: “It’s a small world.” Indeed, it is! In one day, Kathy ran into two people at our resort in Vail who are good friends with our friends. And so, we now have connections with people in Wichita, Kansas, who are Bible study partners with our friends who live in Wichita. We have visited in our Wichita friends’ mountain vacation home in Breckenridge in the past and my friend in Wichita also served with me on the Board of Regents for Concordia Theological Seminary in Ft. Wayne, Indiana. On our way back home to Tomball in two weeks, we will stop over in Wichita so that all of us can “do lunch” together. That way, “new friends” can become “old friends.” Next, Kathy met family friends of our Tomball friends, Kevin and Betsy Schlichting. Kevin’s parents eat out regularly with these Denver area folks and Kevin attended high school with their sons. What great visits we have had!

Unfortunately, in all of this, I went swimming with my new iPhone 5. This is not the first time in my life that I have done this. I had put the phone in my swimming trunks’ pocket and, in all the visiting with new acquaintances, simply forgot. After about 20 minutes in the pool, it kind of jolted me when I remembered. The phone now resides in rice for the next few days. It may power up and it may not–such is life. You would think I would learn that iPhones and water do not mix–maybe this time that truth will impress upon my mind and maybe not–such is life. WEG

Sitting with legs lodged in different directions while balancing on the edge of a raft and rowing for three and a half hours made me aware of muscle groups I did not know I possessed. This advanced two and three level whitewater trip on the lower Eagle River outside of Vail, Colorado, was a blast. Not only was the scenery–red rock cliffs and snow capped mountain peaks–breathtaking, but the water was clear and cold and rushing rapidly. All of the trip, save one small section, was whitewater. I had the three grandgirls on this trip, Mikayla, Miranda and Aurora with me. Our guide was fantastic and we felt safe under his care. We all loved the level three rapids we encountered. Dressed in wet suits, wind breakers, life vests, helmets and water shoes, one would think we would not be cold, however, being regularly soaked in the rapids, we were quite cool. There was one rule drilled into us, “Stay in the boat!” And we did! The only real problem for me was getting out of the raft when the trip was over. My muscles did not want to respond and my feet were numb from sitting in 40 degree water for over three hours. Oh, did I mention that I sat at the very front position on the raft, the one that takes the brunt of the action? Did I mention that you do not sit in the raft on level three journeys but on the edge of the raft? You lock your feet into crevices that fill with water to secure your body for pulling the oar and to keep your body from falling backwards into the water. And in case you wondered, Aurora did not row, but held onto safety ropes to keep her safely in the raft. What a great day we enjoyed together!

While we rafted, Kathy and little Micah mountain hiked with guides. It was rated a moderate hike, but Kathy said there was a misprint. She declared it was moderately extreme. In fact, it was a five hour hike going straight up the mountains with an over 2500 foot ascent. Little Micah stayed at the front with the lead guide while Kathy and the rear guide followed. The destination was a beautiful waterfall about 11,000 feet above sea level. They actually walked over five miles on the journey and Kathy said she had a few sore muscles when finished. Micah started out in clean white shorts and tee and came back covered in dirt from head to toe. What a great day they enjoyed together! WEG

No not San Antonio but the Pueblo, Colorado Riverwalk was our surprise for the day. After driving through the dry flat lands of the upper Texas Panhandle; the near desert of far northeast New Mexico and the mountainous views of the Raton Pass into Colorado we settled into Pueblo and discovered that a riverwalk was right by our hotel. We needed exercise and a walk along a river in the cooler Colorado air was the right prescription. What a delight! The riverwalk is wonderfully laid out and clean and frankly, wonderful. Sculptures and outdoor art mix with water features and gardens. Boats ply the water as folks sit in outdoor cafes in the cool breeze under a warm sun. Who would have thought that such a great ambience was in this location, but it is and it was a fantastic find.

You can never forget the place of your birth and upbringing and going back opens the floodgates of memories. So on our month long journey with four grandkids in tow, Kathy and I happily went back to my place of origin and formation, Granite, Oklahoma. We wanted to give the grandchildren a taste of what it was like where Poppy grew up.

The area around Granite has a rugged beauty. The granite “mountains” indiscriminately pop out from the flat countryside reaching upward to about a thousand feet at the highest. The deep red soil rolls flat for as far as the eye can see, broken occasionally by red and grey clay protrusions that run along creeks and rivers. It looks like an old Wild West movie set. Somehow, growing up here, it did not look this beautiful or interesting.

We took the grandkids to my childhood home, the mountain lake, our farm and the St. John’s Lutheran Cemetery to see the graves of many family members stretching back to their great, great, great grandparents. They were intrigued and asked many questions and, I believe, got a sense of my past and the values that drive our family thinking and acting, most especially our Christian faith and life. WEG

The cemetery filled with Graumann family members

Chicago is rightly known for its art and architecture. The mix of Gothic, Art Deco and Modern in the buildings in Chicago create a wonderful and harmonious blend. Because the skyline has many famous skyscrapers–the Willis (Sears); John Hancock; Trump; Wrigley and Tribune to name a few, one looks upward for long periods of time. Yet, the magnificent public sculptures that fill courtyards keep one looking at the beauty on street level. Parks dot the landscape and the Millennium Park and Grant Park with majestic and playful fountains and large plantings of flowers and shrubs call one to relax under the shade.

The Chicago Institute of Art is a fine museum with an awesome collection of Impressionist art. All the major painters are represented. In addition, the museum houses collections of art from antiquity and the Orient and Africa. What a wonderful day we enjoyed walking amidst the abundant art and architecture of this great American city. WEG