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It had to happen sooner or later–a rain-laden morning. And of all mornings, when we had the Wurzburg Residenz on our morning agenda. I prefer to plan relaxing days, focusing on a few wonderful sights or museums, rather than rushing through to see everything. I prefer staying in one place several days and finding a good local restaurant or brew pub in which to sit and enjoy a leisurely meal watching the local customs and world go by. I love finding a bakery and enjoying the local bread. But on this day, we had a more packed agenda–catch the early train to Wurzburg in order to get the 11am English tour of the Residenz, catch another train to Bamburg, the Unesco World Heritage City. And there was rain!

Of course, being the well-planned traveler :-), I was fully prepared: weather-proof jacket and travel umbrella for me and rain cape with hood for Kathy. Allen and Rhonda were also well-prepared, except for one big problem: they left their rain gear in the rail station lockers. Here is the truth–Allen does not prefer his rain cape–he looks like a big blue thumb when wearing it (please, do not let him know I think this)–and his rain jacket is NOT rain proof, nor is Rhonda’s rain coat–go figure. We got a taxi to the Residenz so that was ok, but after the tour, no taxis were to be found, and it was raining rather briskly. The rail station (Hauptbahnhof) was a good 20 minute walk from the Residenz. I offered my umbrella and even my weather proof jacket to no avail. The end result was that two prepared people were dry and two, um, how should I put it–well, two people were like drowned rats. Ever the gentleman, I was too gracious to rub it in.

The Residenz is grand! The ancient home of the Prince Bishop (both political and spiritual ruler in one) sits majestically in Wurzburg’s Old Town. A large foyer had gates that swung open to allow room for carriages, pulled by six horses, to enter and turn indoors in order to allow their passengers to step out into opulence and to ascend the grand staircase into the palace living quarters. They were treated at the top of the stairs to the world’s largest painted ceiling, depicting life on the four known continents known at that time. The American scene included a Native American riding an alligator, something frightening to the Europeans of the 1700s. Among the 300 rooms of the palace is the Mirror Room, the most mirrors in any one room in the world–600 panes. They were gold-gilded, framed and hand painted. The room was simply stunning.

Training on to Bamburg, we entered the German state of Franconia. The dress and food are distinctive. The clothing has a more rural and yet elegant feel. The food highlights liver, as in liver dumplings and liverwurst. The traditional beer is dunkel (dark) and smoked. Eating in a crowded local establishment and sharing a table, as is common, with other restaurant guests was a wonderful way to dry out two drowned rats. WEG

We happened into the Heileggeist (Holy Ghost) Church in Heidelberg, Germany, just in time for the noonday devotional. What a treat–organ, soloist and the finale of a trumpet playing “Amazing Grace.” While short, the service was heavenly–the music simply wafted and reverberated through the massive interior of this Lutheran Church.

We also took the funicular up the valley hill to the imposing remains of the Prince Elector Schloss (palace) which overlooks the city. The opulence is evident still, and restoration work continues. Impressive views of the Necker Valley spread out before us. The massive stone walls of the palace are filled with statuary. We enjoyed viewing the wine cellar and a massive cask that took 130 oak trees to construct and is capable of holding 58,000 plus gallons of wine! It is the largest wine cask in the world. An ancient staircase is used to access the cask, and we crept along it to see the entire cask.

One of the joys of Germany is the food, and we once again found an authentic restaurant and ate some fantastic cabbage rolls and pumpkin soup. Fall is definitely in the air here as the trees turn more colorful by the day. Kathy and I took a stroll along the river while Allen and Rhonda walked through the Old Town and did some window shopping. WEG

Allen finally found a chair to his liking in Heidelberg, Germany. In an authentic regional restaurant, the biergarten interior had a throne-like chair at one table, and Allen immediately claimed it as his own, declaring that “he was from royal blood” and so he deserved to sit there. Rhonda blamed his delusional thinking on high blood pressure.

We were able to see some of the Altstadt (Old Town) and visit several beautiful Lutheran churches in this university city on the Neckar River. We were able to hear the pipe organ in concert at the Heiliggeistkirche (Holy Ghost Church), a beautiful Lutheran Church. We then visited a large Christmas store with German handmade items and got into a Christmas mood. Today we also added tram to the modes of transportation our friends have experienced while on our German journey. We are having a splendid time and collecting beer coasters from all the biergartens we are visiting along the way.

Oh, and, by the way, we had to pry Allen out of his throne chair. “I am a King,” he cried, as we led him out the door. WEG

Cruising the River Rhine from Koblenz to Bacharach is relaxing and mesmerizing. One medieval castle after another dots the high green hills along the way. Vineyards, planted perpendicular to the river on the steep hills, are interspersed with thick forest, now beginning to turn gold and scarlet. Along the way, quaint villages with tall towers and church steeples lay along the river side. It is a journey that transports one back in time.

We had pre-made arrangements to stay in Bacharach for the evening. I had never heard of it, yet, wanted our friends, Allen and Rhonda, to experience a village along the river rather than traveling on to some large city for the evening. I was not prepared for the drop dead medieval beauty that lay in store. We entered the city from the water through an arched gate, and everywhere we looked we saw one astounding sight after another. It was as if we had been dropped into a fairytale. Half-timbered buildings dating from the 1300s lined the streets. A castle loomed over the village. A majestic Lutheran Church anchored the main square, and the remnants of a Gothic chapel, many gargoyles still flying in place, were perched on the cliff above. Vineyards rose up the hills to the rear of the village and along the valleys beyond. It was hard to believe that we had happened into such beauty, and yet, we had. WEG

Quote of the Day: “I might leave Allen behind, but I’m not leaving my chocolate behind!”–Rhonda

Shopping Tip of the Day: “The A series Mercedes is Allen’s new fav car.”–Allen

In between all of the merriment, we found Koblenz, Germany, to be a delightful city. The German Corner, or Deutsches Eck, is the focal point of the city with its imposing national monument to Kaiser Wilhelm at the point where the Mosel River joins the River Rhine. The Altstadt (Old Town) was stunning. The city fair was in full swing–strolling medieval performing troupe, German food stalls, medieval handicraft-making booths– the iron forger was very interesting–and beer booths and wine taverns made for a very interesting day. The fair was set amidst the beautiful surroundings of the ancient buildings with pastel colors and beautiful exterior scroll work. Live bands were providing entertainment. We ate and drank our way through the fair and also toured the Prince Elector Palace Gardens. The palace exterior was humongous and majestic. In the evening, we ate in a four-generation family-run restaurant that was so authentic it hurt. And the food was amazing–when Chef Allen says it is at the top of his list, that is noteworthy. WEG

+Did Rhonda ride a train, a subway, and a bus all in one day?
+Did Rhonda ride transportation in order to partake of the “longest bar in the world” in Dusseldorf, Germany?
+Did Rhonda “ride” the Aachen Altar Guild about how they arranged the Cathedral flowers?
+All of the above?

Yes, it was, all of the above!

What an eventful day! We experienced almost all forms of transportation as we traveled to Aachen and Dusseldorf today. Aachen is famous as the founding point of Europe, when Charlemagne united most of the continent as the Holy Roman Empire in the late 700s A.D. Aachen was the seat of Charlemagne’s government, and the great cathedral that was built there was the scene of over 40 coronations of royalty over the centuries. The interior is basically royal blue and gold mosaic tile–gorgeous and regal! A city fair was just kicking off, and the winding cobble stone streets lined with beautiful traditional buildings were alive with outdoor cafes filled with people.

Dusseldorf is the fashion center of Germany, with its famous “Ko” street lined with exclusive shops. We, however, were more interested in the Altstadt, or Old Town, which is noted for its numerous (over 300) biergartens and eateries, acclaimed as “the longest bar in the world.” We walked the River Rhine and the narrow streets of the Altstadt dotted with many beautiful plazas. We ate German potato salad, cabbage slaw, potato pancakes, German beef goulash, and other traditional foods.

We were thrilled with the traditional German architecture we encountered today in both Aachen and the Altstadt in Dusseldorf. Lots and lots of pictures were taken. The weather was wonderful as was our day. WEG

It was museum day in Koln (Cologne) today. Both the Romisch-Germanisches (Roman-German) Museum and Das Schokoladen (The Chocolate) Museum held delightful surprises.

One thinks of Italy when the Roman Empire is mentioned, but Koln was the Capitol of the Northern Part of the Empire and a very important Roman outpost. Not only did a major road connect the city to Rome, but trade from the area was important to the Roman economy. Therefore, Roman artifacts abound in the city and the museum is a repository of many of the precious items uncovered over the years. In my opinion, the museum is as good in historical documentation as any in Italy that I have seen. This is the first museum in which I have seen the incense altars at which all Romans were required to throw increase to honor Roman religious deities. This the Christians refused to do, and thus they were persecuted.

Das Schokoladen Museum was a totally different kind of experience. The striking architecture of the building as it sat on a small island on the River Rhine was a dramatic introduction to the history of chocolate that lay within the walls. The European taste for chocolate caused the need for chocolate production and transportation to explode. The museum tracked that history from its beginning in the new world until today. A chocolate factory lay within the walls as well, and one could observe up front and personal the production of a bar of chocolate. We could buy different varieties of chocolate in a large visitor shop, and our friend Rhonda loaded up. She said it was for friends back home, but I have already observed her husband Allen sneaking some. If any of you reading this blog were thinking Rhonda was buying some for you, my guess is you shouldn’t hold your breath! WEG

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We said “goodby” to our friends in Telgte, Germany, took the train to Koln (Cologne) and said “hello” to our Tomball/Rosehill friends, Allen and Rhonda, who are joining us in a German travel adventure over the next few weeks.

We spent a great afternoon in the magnificent Koln Cathedral. Its twin spires reach 516 feet and the Gothic structure is magnificent as it towers over the Rhine River. The flying buttresses almost seem delicate, like lace. The interior contains beautiful stained glass windows, but the highlight of the church is the huge gold container, in which, it is claimed, are the remains of the three Wise Men, who brought the gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the Christ Child. The end cap of the container holds their three crowns, which are only displayed on January 6–Epiphany–the date on the Christian calendar commemorating the coming of the Wise Men to Bethlehem.

Since Rhonda has been active in the Altar Guild at Salem Lutheran Church of Rosehill over the years, we visited the Cathedral Treasury, which houses the religious supplies of the cathedral, still in use, but centuries old. Gold and sliver communion ware, Cardinal copes and mitres, altar linens and illustrated liturgy books were some of the precious items held in the treasury. Before we knew it, several hours had passed.

At the side of the cathedral plaza we found the old Roman road, uncovered in more recent excavations. Built in 37 B.C. when Cologne was an important Roman outpost, the bumpy rock road gave credence to the ancient phrase, “All roads lead to Rome.” We walked the road built before the time of Christ.

It was time to eat. We headed straight for the Fruh Brewery, known for its Kolsch beer, which is served in thin glasses. If you don’t put a coaster over your glass, the wait staff will keep bringing beer, putting a mark on a coaster to keep count. We all ordered traditional German fare like oxtail soup and sweinhoxen (a braised pork hock). Very good! We didn’t have room for dessert. A great first day for a German adventure. WEG

German food is surprising in many ways, but always tasty. We have been fed fabulously over the past five days while in Telgte. Some of my favorites and insights:

+ I walked past the potato pancake kiosk at the Maria-Geburtsmarkt Festival several times and could not stop because we were going to eat somewhere else. Today, we had some free time, and I was able to eat four potato pancakes. Made with grated potatoes, the pancakes are fried and slathered with apple sauce–too good, and they went down fine.
+ Rouladen is a thin cut flank steak filled with coarse sausage and a mustard sauce and dill pickle and baked in a dark herbed cream gravy. Amazing! Its most important side is spatzle, a heavy noodle made from dough cut into boiling water. I could have eaten, but did not, the entire serving dish for all 75 guests at the meal. Fortunately, I also eaten it at the Bavarian Inn to which we were taken several days earlier.
+ Beer. In Germany, it is food :-). The Germans take beer production, refined over the centuries, quite seriously. Order the wrong one and you are seen as ignorant or offensive. For instance, in Munsterland, an alt (old beer) is popular and is served in a regular looking beer glass, but in Koln (Cologne) it is called Kolsch and served in a narrow tall glass. Dare not order Alt in Koln or Kolsch in Munster, although the two cities are close in proximity. Whatever the name, it is good. Right now we are in light-colored beer country, not dark beer. This is good for me since light beer is my preference. My wife, Kathy, much prefers dark beer. In Spain and Italy, I wanted pastries, she wanted gelato–in Germany, I want light beer, she wants dark. Don’t tell her that I planned this entire German adventure to keep us in areas where only light beer is produced–water for her, beer for me.
+ Plum cake, whether it is in the form of a crumble cake, or a kuchen, plum pastries are wonderful–enough said. I ate it every day at least once. Kathy wanted some of mine and I said, “Go eat gelato.” Of course, I did not say that! I hid my pastries from her instead. Of course, I did not do that. Well, maybe, once.

I could write much more about steak tartar and sausage and saurkraut and wine and foods I cannot pronounce much less spell–it was all good! Our hosts were outstanding and Holger and Silka who were with us daily and took us under their welcoming wings are outstanding and loving folks. Many thanks to God for such blessings and friendships. WEG