Czech it Out
I had one of the best meals on our trip today. That is saying a lot, since our food in Italy and Germany was wondrous. First of all, it only cost $10 –things are quite reasonable in the Czech Republic. The beef filet was perfectly cooked and was topped with fresh cranberry sauce, a marinated lemon slice and whipped sour cream. It sat in a bed of mushroom gravy and along side it sat three puffed Czech bread dumplings. I had to fend off Kathy trying to eat them away from me. It had complex seasonings that worked well. It will be my only meal for the day, besides the amazing breakfast this morning that is part of the hotel cost. We were shocked to find our table waiting and laid out for us with wonderful foods. Fresh fruits beautifully arranged in a basket, yogurts, and a fruit pastry cake beckoned. Drinks were quickly provided as were cheese and meat plates. Made to order eggs/omelets were offered. This turned out to be a “lollygagging” kind of day in Český Krumlov. It was a cloudy, cool day, and we enjoyed our time together in this enchanting place.
WEG- Wednesday, September 23, 2015
CK
Český Krumlov is what Bohemia (one of the major divisions of the Czech Republic) has always been. It is frozen in time. Visitors from all over the world come to walk its very narrow and heavenly cobblestoned streets surrounded by ancient medieval dwellings (our hotel dates from the 1490s). The Vltava River rushes its way through the center of the village overseen by a royal castle perched on a rock outcropping, giving it a look of solid strength.
Our trip here from Hallstatt, Austria, was by private shuttle. It was the only viable way. Reasonable in cost and comfortable, our van moved along roads and highways in Austria past beautiful lakes for most of the journey. Once we passed into the Czech Republic the land became rolling hills filled with pastures and farms. Eventually, we followed the Vltava River all the way to our destination, passing castles and churches commanding the hillsides. When we turned onto our final road to Český Krumlov, it narrowed to basically a one lane road. Large trees hugged the roadside, painted white on the trunks to remind drivers that they shared the road. We drove slowly around curves and when we met traffic going the other direction, both drivers moved carefully.
Arriving into Český Krumlov was unmistakable. A UNESCO World Heritage site, towers and multi-spired steeples abounded, and old dwellings in a concrete plaster wash with aged pastel colors greeted us. Our shuttle could not drive us into the narrow pedestrian zone, so our luggage clunked over the heavy stones as we walked. Our hotel is ancient and our room spacious with huge wooden beams and a seating area and Austrian lace curtains and decorated in 1700s Bohemian style…all at a very affordable price. We ate beside the Vltava River and looked out at the 13th century castle above with Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architectural elements. We then searched out a Trdelnik shop, a traditional pastry/dessert in Czech Republic. We watched as the pastry chef rolled out the dough and wrapped it around a metal cylinder, hand rolling it until flat on the cylinder, then rolling it in cinnamon before placing it on a shallow grilling surface on which the cylinder continued to spin slowly as the dessert slowly baked. When browned, the Trdelnik is slid off the cylinder piping hot with a crispy exterior and soft interior. Delicious. Off to a good night’s sleep under duvets, window’s open to the cobbled-stoned street below and cool air wafting into the room.
WEG – Tuesday, September 22, 2015
Refreshed and Inspired
We awoke to 34 degrees Fahrenheit and looked down from our hotel room balcony on a clear glassy blue lake whose shores licked the base of tall mountain peaks. Swans swam the shores. We got back under our warm down duvets and snoozed again. Eating a late breakfast, we determined to spend the day leisurely in Hallstatt and not slide down the shoots into the world’s oldest salt mine, or take the cable car up to see the peaks of the Tyrol and a mountain glacier or visit the skull cemetery, but rather just soak in the beauty of the town on the cliffs by the lake. And soak it up we did. God willing, we can return for the other activities another time.

Wayne and Kathy view the enchanting village of Hallstatt, Austria, from a hilltop overlooking the Lutheran church that ministers to the community in Word and deed.
I discovered Hallstatt by searching the internet about Europe’s prettiest villages or Top 10 things to see in Europe or Austria and such, and the name Hallstatt, Austria, appeared often. So onto the itinerary it went. We soon knew why so many love the city and the surrounding lake and mountains. While the main street is relatively flat as it runs along the lake, the village reaches up the cliffs for businesses and homes. Stone or wooden staircases cling to rock cliffs or tunnel into the rock for upward mobility. Homes and shops are built on solid rock foundations, and boulders protrude through some. The buildings and homes have thick wooden shingles and are painted in pastels. Gardens are planted wherever possible and flower boxes with flowers blooming profusely adorn almost every building. Thick green moss clings to walkways and railings and roof shingles. The “white gold” salt made the region wealthy, and while the mines are no longer major producers, salt in one form or another is found in most shops. Two beautiful churches adorn the city’s skyline, one Lutheran/Protestant and the other Roman Catholic. A waterfall drops into the mid- point of the city, and the lake and mountains are always in view. We walked the narrow lanes and dropped into shops that caught our attention. We watched a wood craftsman at work on his lathe. Later in the day, we dined in a lakeside restaurant under a huge tree whose leaves were now turning yellow as the fall approaches–lake fish soup and cheese dumpling soup, beef goulash with spaetzle and roast breast of duck with red cabbage and cranberries and, of course, the local beer. As usual, mine was weis (blond or light colored) and Kathy’s dunkel (dark). As they say, opposites attract.
As the evening approached we headed back to our hotel, relaxed and refreshed on a day when the sun shone brightly and the temperature was a mild 64F. WEG – Monday, September 21, 2015

A Hallstatt, Austria, scene with the Catholic church on the left and the Lutheran church on the right
Up and Away
Almost immediately after we left Munich for Austria via train we began an upward ascent. It took some doing, however. Germany closed its border both from and to Austria due to the crisis of refugee/immigrants, which the European media is now reporting is less than 20% from Syria’s war-torn provinces and mostly people (young men) seeking better opportunity in the west, meaning northern Europe and mainly Germany. Our train was cancelled, and after standing in an information line in the Hauptbahnhof (main or central train station) for awhile, we were reassigned a new route which could get us into Austria. The rub was that now we had to make four transfers and add another five hours to our travel. At least we were able to use our original tickets “no questions asked” even if we were now on different trains and times than the original tickets stated. So off to the new train we went, and soon found that all the first class seats were pre-reserved (we had reserved seats on our original schedule which did not work on the new train) and the tourist class was standing room only. Kathy noticed that the train had a dining car and immediately went for a table. We stuffed our luggage behind our seats and sat down to a linen covered table with comfortable chairs and ordered breakfast as the train began an ascent into the German highlands. No room in first class soon meant nothing.
Upward and upward we went as our trains eventually took us into the Austrian Tyrol. Amazing sights unfolded before our eyes: mountains of raw timber covering acre upon acre ready for some application to industry or home use; tidy farms with cattle grazing on the hillside–how do those cattle seem to stand so effortlessly on such steep hills; corn fields almost ready for harvest; bright yellow fields with some crop of which I have yet to discover the name; neatly stacked cords of wood by barns and homes ready for winter fires; dark thick forests extending into the horizon; mountain lakes with cozy villages with tall-steepled or onion-domed churches, usually white or yellow, nudging against the waters. Gradually, as we ascended higher and higher, the steep green hills and farms disappeared and the forests receded, roof pitches on buildings became steeper and jagged mountain peaks appeared. We had moved into the high mountain Tyrol, and it was awesome!
Both sides of the train held extraordinary views. I was almost dizzy from going back and forth. Then, amidst all that beauty, came something even more beautiful. On our car was a pretty Austrian mother, cradling her infant daughter in her lap, with a three-year-old son as blond as blond can be and big blue eyes looking on as she read a children’s story book in German and softly sang while caressing her daughter’s cheek. Time both stood still and warped–what my mother did for me and Kathy did for our children and they for theirs, as I am sure is also true for you, and as it was being done before me then and there as the train moved past one mountain peak to another and across rivers and by lakes until we arrived at our destination high in the Tyrol. WEG – Sunday, September 20, 2015
A postscript – As we post this blog, our travel companions, Rhonda & Allen Krahn, have returned safely home to Texas, and Dan & Charlotte Berg are flying over the East Coast of the continental United States on their way back to Houston.

Obertraun, Austria – September 20, 2015
The view from our hotel balcony upon our early evening arrival
Oktoberfest in Munich
What a day in Munich! Saturday, September 19, was the opening day of Munich’s 2015 Oktoberfest that will last through October 3. Since we were told the crowds were humongous, we opted to go later in the day and use a secondary train stop rather than the popular Theresienwiesen stop. It was a good choice.
With an open schedule in the morning, we visited the Schloss Nymphenburg, the Baroque palace on the outskirts of Munich that was the main summer residence of the former rulers of Bavaria, and is now a state historical site. The grounds were impressive; flowers surrounded man-made lakes where swans and wild geese swam above and large carp swam below. The palace was designed in an impressive array of inter-connected buildings that formed an oval, enclosing a beautiful park festooned with colorful floral plantings. The main entry gallery, the Great Hall, was stunning with its pastel-colored fresco paintings encased in elaborate baroque frames of gold and white. Huge crystal chandeliers hung from the frescoed ceiling. Ludwig II, “the mad King,” was baptized in this Great Hall. The rear gardens were even more impressive than the front gardens since clipped hedges, mass flower plantings in full bloom, statuary and fountains stretched as far as the eye could see.
As we wandered the palace, we stumbled upon the rooms that contained the royal carriages through the centuries. The Marstallmuseum (Museum of Carriages and Sleighs in the former Royal Stables) houses a collection of historic state coaches, ceremonial sleighs and riding equipment. The carriage of Emperor Charles VII was gold and massive, exuding strength while the golden carriage of Ludwig II was ornate and whimsical, portraying his love of opera. What surprised us most, however, was the collection of horse-drawn sleighs. Some were constructed of ornate wood with Bavarian paintings on the side. Others were gold with elaborate golden decorations and lamps. The seats were fur-lined. We were able to observe archivists meticulously restoring one sleigh. After walking through the porcelain gallery containing the table settings and decorative arts that surrounded the royalty on a daily basis, we headed off to the Oktoberfest grounds, the Theresienwiesen.
It was easy to know where to go since thousands were headed in the same direction. The vast majority of folks were wearing the lederhosen (men) or dirndls (women) that is traditional Bavarian dress. The Oktoberfest was boisterous and packed with people. We went into a couple of the tents (that hold up to ten thousand people) to hear the bands playing “oompa” music and watch the “Gemütlichkeit” (camaraderie, fellowship, warmth and friendship) of the singing crowds. “Ein prosit, ein prosit, Gemütlichkeit” and our day at the Oktoberfest was done. We spent the evening at the famous beer and Bavarian food house, the Hofbrauhaus eating crisp pork shank and potato dumplings along with the smooth Hofbrau beer (HB). We sat in the rustically ornate and huge upper dining room, as the beer garden and lower rustic rooms were packed. The band, dressed in Bavarian clothing, played as we ate. It was early to bed since the Bergs are flying to Rome early in the morning to catch their scheduled plane home. And, good news, Allen is out of the hospital, and plans are being made for Allen and Rhonda’s return home. WEG – Saturday, September 19, 2015
Hospital and Travel Difficulties
Our Sound of Music day in Salzburg, Austria, was fantastic. But that was not the big travel news and experience of the day; what experiences we have had!
First, a fuller explanation of Allen’s story about going into the hospital in Salzburg. His situation with the prostate condition worsened while at the hotel in Salzburg. In the late evening, Rhonda and I got him to the university hospital for testing with the hope of getting permission for him to travel back home to the U.S. (I blogged about that earlier.) Allen did not receive permission to travel. Instead, the medical professionals wanted to admit him to the hospital immediately because his blood count was acutely high. Understandably, Allen was hesitant. This was something completely unexpected and out of his expertise, being in a foreign country and with doctors he did not know. After consulting with his medical office in Tomball, the decision was made for him to be admitted to the university’s urological hospital wing in Salzburg. The admission process was quick and easy. When we arrived at the hospital by taxi, I thankfully saw someone who was being brought out of the hospital on a stretcher. I promptly used the opportunity to enter through the same automatic door that closed behind me. Thankfully, I had made it inside, because the automatic door could be opened only with a pass card from the outside. When I saw Allen and Rhonda approach the entry, I was able to activate the door from the inside that permitted them to gain entrance. Now inside the hospital entry, we saw no one; it was dark and silent. A young intern eventually walked in and appeared surprised to see us. He summoned a doctor. It took Rhonda some explaining to do before the doctor could understand why we were there. Once that was successfully communicated, Allen went for testing. About an hour and a half later, someone from the hospital came to escort Rhonda and me to Allen’s room where a very efficient and pleasant nurse met Allen to explain everything about his room and what to expect next. We were impressed with how quickly everything transpired. Other than medications, there were no forms for Allen to fill out and no payments required. The next day, a hospital representative came by to require payment; the fee was quite reasonable. Allen is steadily improving and, God willing, will be able to be released from the hospital and given permission to travel home in a few days. Rhonda has a safe, comfortable hotel room and spends time with Allen during the day. Last night, Dan and I went to say “goodbye” to Allen, and this morning, Charlotte, Dan, Kathy and I said “goodbye” to Rhonda. Allen and Rhonda are being helped by the travel insurance personnel who will arrange for their trip home.
Dan, Charlotte, Kathy, and I are traveling on to Munich where the Berg’s will catch their scheduled plane home via Munich to Rome. Kathy and I will then continue our adventure alone.
If it were only that easy! Travel always has the unexpected, and seasoned travelers know it comes with the territory and you must go with the flow. The refugee/immigrant crisis in Europe caught up with us in Salzburg. We learned that all trains into Germany were cancelled. Hotlines were of little help. It was “every man for himself.” A doctor at the hospital, in an offhand conversation about our plans to go to the Oktoberfest in Munich, mentioned that he had tickets to the Oktoberfest. Since the rail lines into Germany were closed, he planned to drive to the border and go across to the small German city of Freilassing where he would catch a German train to Munich. With that tip in mind, we called a taxi to take us to that German city. We all had to go through border checks with passports examined to make sure we were not illegally entering the country. We saw army personnel standing along the waterways to make sure no one crossed there. When we finally arrived at the bahnhoff (rail station), we went to the ticket office and found out that our original tickets from Salzburg would be accepted on a German train. What a relief! The train station was filled with refugees/immigrants. There were social agencies on hand to help. Upon inquiry, we were informed that people already inside German borders were being processed and resettled throughout Germany. We were told nearly all the refugees/immigrants wanted to come to Germany and not other European countries, and so border controls were initiated to regulate the flow. Our observations were that families fleeing war (refugees) were the minority and young men seeking employment (immigrants) were the majority.

A refugee family asleep on the floor of the train station in the border town of Freilassing, Germany

Assistance is provided to the refugees who have come to the train station in the small border town of Freilassing, Germany

Police cars parked outside the train station in Freilassing, Germany, as they manage the influx of refugees/immigrants who want to enter Germany
Now, back to the Original Sound of Music tour that all of us, but Allen, took. It was a lovely day seeing the places in which the movie was filmed. We saw the homes (rear of one home and front of another) where Baron Von Trapp and his family lived, the gazebo where his oldest daughter fell in love, the bridges over which the children played and sang, the beautiful Mirabell Gardens where several of the scenes were shot, and the church in which the wedding of the Baron and Maria took place. We were able to witness a funeral in progress at the church. A choir was singing, and the people in attendance were finely dressed in traditional Tyrolean clothing. The white horse-drawn funeral carriage outside was festooned in brilliant flowers and led by a funeral band clothed in red Tyrolean clothes with black hats. As we drove, we were in the beautiful mountain and lake district of Austria where the mountains ring soft baby blue lakes. Our guide pointed out the hotel frequented by the Bill Gates family and the Red Bull (the drink that has made the owner the second richest person in Austria) campus headquarters building that was framed in glass. The huge bulls charging out of one building into a lake, with water flowing out of their mouths, was eye-catching. This tour, coming amidst all the other travel issues, was a spirit refresher. WEG – Friday, September 18, 2015
The Crises

Salzburg’s train station was guarded heavily by uniformed police as 4,000 Syrian refugees sought to gain entry into Germany the day of our arrival.
Our train ride from Innsbruck to Salzburg was magnificent. Allen, Charlotte and Dan snapped away as one majestic mountain scene after another passed in front of us on either side of the train. How impressive is God’s handiwork!
Once we arrived in Salzburg we immediately saw police and military cordons. This was new. We had seen a larger number of safety personnel along the way than we were used to seeing. But this was different. Military and local police were everywhere. Then, we began to see large numbers of people from the Middle East clustered in groups. We inquired and found out that these were refugees/immigrants and now numbering in the thousands in Salzburg. We were told 4,000 had arrived today alone. Some were families, and many were young men. Outside the central station, relief agencies were providing food and counseling help, and tents were set up. While the situation was tense, there was no chaos. It was obvious that some of the children riding up and down the escalator had never seen such a contraption before by the look of amazement on their faces.
With that sober experience in our minds, we taxied to our hotel and took a walking tour of beautiful Salzburg with the Hohensalzburg Fortress towering on the bluff above the city. We saw Wolfgang Mozart’s home on one of the busy streets. Salzburg is an upscale city, clean and charming with many fashionable shops.

Hohensalzburg Fortress, the largest preserved fortress in central Europe, sits atop a high hill over Salzburg and is reached by the Festungsbahn funicular railway.

The Salzburg Cathedral, built in the typical Austrian baroque style, along with many other Catholic churches in Salzburg, helped Salzburg gain its reputation as the ‘Rome of the North’. Wolfang Amadeus Mozart was baptized in this church.
Once back at the hotel, Allen was again not feeling well. He made the decision to go home and checked with the trip insurance folks about the details. He has had a bout with his prostate in the past and it was a difficult recovery and he did not want the issue to progress so far that hospitalization would be required while in Europe. We traveled to a medical clinic to get a doctor’s permission for him to travel as required by the insurance. Thorough tests were performed. How thankful we are that we took out travel insurance for this trip! Unfortunately, the doctor would not give permission for Allen to travel. After calling to the medical office Allen uses at home, the decision was made to admit Allen to the hospital here in Salzburg. The process was easy and fast–no questions asked about anything other than medical needs. The room was ready immediately and the nurse was waiting to get Allen settled into his room. Everything is modern at this large university hospital. Prayers for speedy recovery are requested for Allen. WEG – September 16, 2015
The Agony and the Ecstasy
A day trip to Mittenwald, Germany proved to be a grand experience. The train trip through the Austrian Tyrol into the German Alps was amazing. Breathtaking mountain vistas were everywhere. It was clear and cool and every turn of the railroad track brought new mountain peaks into view. Waterfalls fell from the sky and deep canyons divided mountain ranges. Verdant green high mountain hills nursed cattle, sheep and horses.
We arrived to the wonderful mountain “painted” village of Mittenwald. Picture postcard perfect, the village beckoned with its painted building, exquisite painted church, fountains and flower gardens. Throughout the village, water flowed through the streets in flower-lined narrow and shallow canals. We ate a late lunch in a restaurant that shouted German–dark wood carved paneling, shaded lamps and painted ceiling–oh, and every beer, including the Oktoberfest beer, was on tap and each beer had its own glass or mug peculiar to that beer. On a side note–German beer is chemical/preservative free and non pasteurized, meaning it is fresh and when it is best, cloudy. Even the same brands cannot be purchased this way in America and thus lose their excellent taste.
Rhonda and Charlotte opted to shop in Innsbruck and chill out, and Allen wanted to stay in since he did not feel well. Since this was a free unscheduled day, everyone could do as they pleased. God knew we needed that free day since Allen’s health deteriorated in the afternoon and he needed to go to the doctor/hospital. Rhonda took him since we were still in Mittenwald. After finding only German-speaking people at the hospital, they finally found a dentist who could speak English and helped them to the urologist who did a thorough job of running tests to diagnose Allen’s prostate infection. Later, we were off to the pharmacy to get the five prescriptions necessary to get Allen back to health. Please pray for his complete recovery. WEG – September 15, 2015
Rain in Innsbruck
Innsbruck is the regional capitol of the Tyrol in Austria. It is a beautiful city ringed by the Tyrollean Alps and dotted with baroque architecture that is noted by its ornate scroll work and use of figures in the plaster. The buildings in the Old Town are colorful, many with intricate paintings, usually of a religious nature. The churches have onion-topped steeples. One church just down the street from our hotel is pink and white with thick wooden doors and large oval iron handles. The interior is white and gold in the baroque style. Just to the side of our hotel is the triumphant arch topped with statuary of horsemen in full charge.
We traveled to Innsbruck via the train over the Brenner Pass, one of Europe’s highest. We passed acres of orchards filled with apples nearing harvest time as well as vineyards. Along the way large castles or churches commanded hilltop locations underneath the Alpine vista. It was a wonderful trip.
Innsbruck train station is a wonderful experience in itself (as are most train stations in Europe). Filled with shops of many kinds, we noticed the large sausage store and a grocery store that had a large selection of lunch items in glass cases. We decided to eat our lunch here since there was also comfortable seating. It was a good choice.
It was sprinkling when we decided to walk to our hotel–a straight shot several blocks up the street in the Old Town. Unfortunately, as we walked, it started to rain. We had rain gear and it came in handy, but we still got wet. The Alps were covered in clouds, and so we could not see them. When the rain stopped and the clouds lifted in the evening, the sight of the Alps was majestic.
We were able to walk part of the Old Town and see the St. Jacob Cathedral. It is a beautiful baroque church with painted ceilings and a wonderful golden pipe organ. Here we viewed the grave of Kaiser Maximilian I under whose tenure in the late middle ages the city gained its prominence and its landmark Golden Roof. Built with a deep slant, the roof was a symbol of the city’s wealth and influence and gleams golden to this day. Surrounded by baroque and painted buildings, with the Alps looming overhead, it is a beautiful sight.
Our day ended with traditional Austrian foods–wienerschnitzel; saurkraut; fresh rolled noodles in melted cheese; goulash (nothing at all like the goulash you might know in America); fried potatoes with meat and fried eggs; marinated cabbage; roast pork and Tyrolean dumplings. We are now in beer country, and it is good. WEG – September 14, 2015
Worth the Effort
Arriving in Bozen/Balzano in the South Tyrol is difficult on a weekend when you want to rent a car. This is a different place for many reasons. Time moves more slowly here and German is predominant, even though this is Italy. Being a weekend, the car rental agencies close by 3:30 on Friday and do not open again until Monday morning. This is a traditional place and weekends are for family. Since we arrived by train, we needed to quickly hop a taxi to the regional airport, since this is the only place where a car can be rented. That meant we needed to find a place to garage the cars (we needed two–no large cars or minivans or SUV’s–for our Sunday drive). Furthermore, since this was the weekend of a large bicycle tour/race, spaces were limited. We managed to get everything done, with some effort.
It was worth it! Our drive into the Dolomites was relaxing, and the scenery was “lovely and dramatic.” The kelly green hills reached up to heavy forests which pushed up against jagged mountain peaks. The Dolomites are noted for these jagged peaks and are a UNESCO world heritage site. Small mountain villages with gabled tile roofs abounding, with yellow and white plaster buildings–some painted with imagery–were situated on sloping hillsides underneath those jagged peaks. But it is the flowers and the church buildings and steeples that steal the attention. Flowers were everywhere, in window boxes, in gardens, in street pottery and hanging from antique light posts. There were bridges with cascading flowers. Round abouts had centers with huge carved wooden imagery and flowers, flowers, flowers. Reds, yellows, purples everywhere. What a refreshing sight! The church steeples were tall and slender or onion-domed. Some had decorative tile roofs. All in all, it was more than the eyes could capture, but the overall effect was magical, especially when the clouds and midsts blew in between those jagged peaks on this cool late summer day. WEG – Sunday, September 13, 2015









































