Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: A Sachertorte Day
October 4, 2016
Rain fell all day in Vienna, but that did not stop the sightseeing and travel experiences.
The History Museum is the fourth largest museum in Europe, and it is excellent! From ancient Babylonia to the classical artists, the museum is filled with beauty and wonderment. I sat in the Rubens gallery and simply soaked in the magnitude of the art. Room after room after room of art by the world’s greats–it was overwhelming.
While Mike and Sandra, Kathy and Wayne enjoyed the museum, Allen and Rhonda and Sherlene went to the famous market street to peruse the foods that were on display from around the world. Allen commented that most of it looked really good; he just didn’t know how to get it home.
We all went to an evening concert featuring works by Strauss and Mozart at the Kursalon, one of Vienna’s major performing art centers. What a wonderful experience! The musicians were from the National Symphony and were outstanding. Often dancers and opera singers joined the musicians to provide emphasis to the various works. Our trip to Vienna somehow seemed complete–a music concert where so many artists lived and composed such melodious tunes.
Kathy and I did share a mid-afternoon snack of sachertorte, the famous Viennese dessert. Created for a Prince, it is a dense chocolate and apricot cake covered with a dark chocolate shell. It will quench the chocolate cravings of almost anyone. Yes, I let Kathy have the last bite. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Up to Heaven
October 3, 2016
Up, up we went in a scaffolding elevator inside the beautiful and tall Karlskirche (St. Charles Church) in Vienna towards the dome painted with scenes of heaven. “We’re going to heaven today,” commented a fellow passenger. Petrified of heights and in an open elevator, I replied, “I just didn’t want to go today.” The scaffolding was in place so that the dome could be repaired and restored. Once we reached the dome level and stepped out onto the scaffolding, I froze, the scaffolding trembling and shaky. I saw a chair and asked Kathy to help me to it, somehow thinking that if I sat I would be safer. That is when I saw the narrow open scaffolding going further heavenward to the copula far above where they were restoring. Kathy said, “Let’s climb.” I said, “No way.” I could not believe they would let you, but they did. She insisted and said she was going. I said, “Go ahead.” She did. I cannot tell you how relieved I was when she returned from 236 feet above ground level, and we descended to the main floor of the beautiful church. What an experience!
Schoenbrunn Palace was the summer palace of the Habsburg dynasty, of first, the Holy Roman Empire and then the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. Grand it is! Imagine huge crystal chandeliers in gold and white rooms in room after room, and you get an idea of the grandeur. The grounds are also amazing with magnificent gardens and fountains and statuary.
We are staying in apartments in a historic building in Vienna within easy walking distance to the State Opera and other areas of significance. The apartments are wonderful. Wood floors, separate living rooms, one and a half bathrooms, kitchens, separate bedrooms. While each of our apartments is different they all have the same wonderful amenities. Huge and comfortable, we are quite pleased. We had intermittent rain today, but we managed to stay dry and we ate at a highly-rated cafe coffee house nearby. Rhonda and Allen, Sandra and Mike, Sherlene and Kathy and I say “hello” to all our family and friends. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Baroque Gem
October 1, 2016
We took one last long look at the Tyrolean beauty of Hallstatt, boarded the train and headed for the glory of human creation known as the Melk Abbey. Mike, Sandra, Allen and Rhonda were in awe of this 900 year plus creation. The library, with its intricate wood carvings and leather bound books, is world renowned for having one of the largest holdings of books of antiquity. It is awe-inspiring. The Marble Hall is trompe-l’oeil (an art form that creates an optical illusion) amusement. Most of the marble isn’t, and the ceiling height, while not high, seems quite high. It is the chapel, however, that is the jaw-dropper. Considered one of the finest examples of the Baroque style, it is gold upon gold with angels flying and complementary art. It is overpowering, and it was meant to be. The wonderful abbey with its yellow accent paint and imposing towers and dome looms high over Melk village.
We have a great hotel on the main street in Melk and ate outside in the cool air, with outside heaters providing just the right amount of warmth with the lit abbey on the hill above. What a treat! We had different foods tonight: pumpkin soup (it is the pumpkin oil that makes the difference); pumpkin cheese cakes (wow); battered pork liver and potatoes; pike salad; roasted chicken, to name a few of the culinary items. Sitting on a cobblestone street in the fresh air, with beauty all around and above us, we felt blessed indeed. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Chilled, Preserved, Displayed
September 30, 2016
The Tyrolian village of Hallstatt draws one quickly into its charm. The narrow cobblestone streets reveal mountain gingerbread-style houses stacked above each other on the mountainside with the clear and clean lake shimmering on the other side. A waterfall falls in the middle of the city just above the cozy village square. A Lutheran church with a beautiful steeple commands the square, and a Catholic church sits majestically on the hill above. “Picturesque” does not describe the scene adequately enough.
Our group explored the city; yet, other activities also beckoned. Mike and Sandra went to the unique ice caves high above the mountain lake. Not only did they do the remaining strenuous climb after the bus dropped them off, but braved over 500 steps inside the cave to see the ice formations that were like stalactites and stalagmites in regular caves, but made of ice in this cave. Wayne and Kathy took the funicular (a cross between an elevator and cog train) up the mountain to the world’s oldest salt mine. 7,000 years of production have brought wealth through the ages to Hallstatt and still today, 300,000 tons of salt are produced annually. Riding a run-away salt mine train inside the cave and sliding down steep 100 yard slicker slides into the mine depths were exciting parts of the journey. We did not know we had bought tickets for amusement park rides, but in reality, these activities were a part of the miners’ everyday existence. Allen, Rhonda and Sherlene went to the Bone Museum, where they viewed old skulls, displayed with the name of each deceased carefully inscribed for public view. Because usable land is scarce in Hallstatt, those who have been dead the longest are dug up, the bones dried and sculls inscribed, in order to make room for new bodies in the grave site. Sherlene took one look and fled the site. Allen took pictures and Rhonda looked for long lost relatives.
It was a fascinating day in one of the prettiest places on this planet. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Up in the Tyrol
September 29, 2016
The air is fresh and crisp; the trees have a tinge of fall color; the mountains reflect in the lake and there is serenity and quiet. Gone is the madness that is the Oktoberfest in Munich–hello nature.
Hallstatt usually appears on those top ten lists of prettiest places in Europe, and it is easy to see why. The village is squeezed against and up the mountain on one side and borders a clear lake on the other. Ducks and swan ply the water along with small boats, none high-powered. Our hotel sits on water’s edge across the lake from the village, and we have sweeping views of the lake and mountains that ring it. It is as refreshing as it is spectacular. We are in the Austrian Tyrol and happy to be here.
Our meal tonight was fresh rainbow trout caught today in the river that flows into the lake. Buttered potato wedges and salad accompanied. I started off with a garlic soup made with fresh cream and butter. Delicious! The Austrian beer was quite good. Tonight we sleep with an open glass door onto our patio, so that we can breathe the wonderful air and sleep warmly under our feather duvets. Maybe I’ll count the sheep that I saw on the train ride here today. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: A Mountain Retreat
Mittenwald is a painted village high in the German Alps just past Garmisch-Partenkirchen. It is a simply delightful mountain locale. Known for the painted scenes, or pictures, on the buildings as well as its setting surrounded by jagged peaks, the village is serene, pastoral and quaint. We enjoyed the train ride to the village on our day trip out of Munich as we began ascending first through rolling hills with green fields, some holding flocks of sheep, to mountainous terrains with tall trees, some beginning to turn gold, to high mountain country near the tree line.
Our meal at a wonderful German restaurant with painted ceilings and wooden beams was more than delicious. I ate my first jäger schnitzel, a pork cutlet smothered with creamed mushrooms and a side salad with a dressing made with fresh cream that was so good I actually drank what remained. (Yes, I made sure no one was watching.)
The day was relaxing as we breathed clean mountain air in 64F temperature and sat in a park with a trickling fountain and beautiful flowers looking out at the surrounding scenery. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Oom-Pa
Munich – September 26 and 27, 2016
I went to my first Oktoberfest in Munich with trepidation and reluctance, and this year marks the third year in a row that Kathy and I have attended. Oktoberfest in Munich is a blast! The mix of people in traditional dirndls and lederhosen with live music spread across fourteen huge tents and the festive decorations all across the enormous event space at the Theresaweisen Park are mesmerizing.
Munich is a great city with much to do. From the intriguing Middle Ages mechanical wonder of the glockenspiel at the Rathaus to the old Hofbrauhaus drinking and dining establishment to the fabulous Residenz of the Imperial Wittlesbach family to the castles and abbeys on the outskirts of the city, one can be quite involved with sightseeing. Our group spent the morning and early afternoon at the Oktoberfest and the afternoon at the Residenz. Its treasury of priceless art, crown jewels and artifacts left our heads spinning. Its enormous rooms with gold and tapestries and silk, crystal chandeliers and ceiling frescoes were wonders to behold. What a day!
We managed a table on the upper floor of the Hofbrauhaus one evening for a meal. The vaulted barrel ceiling painted in subdued colors and the upfront band and traditional dancers gave a great ambiance to our meal. I fell in love with the cabbage salad (vinegar based with caraway seed and bacon) and wished I had simply ordered three helpings and called it a meal. At over 400 years old, the establishment has quite a history and makes for a delightful stop when visiting the city. We were all happy to reach our hotel and put up our feet and get ready to enjoy another day. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: Imperial Nuremberg
September 24 & 25, 2016
It’s Old Town Festival in Nuremberg, and the city is filled with tents and food carts along the major streets, and the main platz is filled with tidy rows of tents selling all sorts of foods and merchandise. Our two days here were filled with eating, exploring and lollygagging.
Often times, pictures of Germany feature Nuremberg because of its German character and history as being the seat of the Holy Roman Empire for centuries and then as Hitler’s National Socialist Party headquarters. We spent our time in the Old Town (Allstadt) and were able to worship at the magnificent and beautiful St. Lorenz Lutheran Church. Thunderous bells pealed for ten minutes calling people to worship. The mighty pipe organ wafted familiar hymns and tunes throughout the carved and vaulted ceilings. While in German, the service had a familiar sound and the time was reflective and deeply spiritual. The trek up the hill to the Imperial Castle Complex was strenuous. Emperors got horse drawn carriages–we got stairs and steep, cobble- stoned inclines. At a thousand years old, the castle complex is the most important medieval castle in Europe due to its Holy Roman Empire inhabitants over centuries.
Mike bought a belt and then found one at 1/3 the price in the market square. Kathy bought scarves in the market. Allen found gelato and circled back several times. I found German sausage and hard rolls and skipped breakfast so that I could indulge. Wonderful city and wonderful times. WEG
Autumn 2016 Travels in Europe: An Idyllic Day
Idyllic Day
September 23, 2016
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is a fairy tale city in the central German countryside. Preserved from ruin in the wars that raged through the years, its medieval walls and gingerbread buildings, peppered with towers and steeples, stand intact. The cobble-stoned streets with running fountains beckon the traveler to explore. City platz (squares) with outdoor restaurants and flower-filled planters and window boxes bid the traveler to rest and stay awhile. With clear skies and 70 degree Fahrenheit temperature, the city was idyllic and wonder-filled.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber is known for its charm and German character and for the Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas store with its wooden hand-carved decorations and extensive Christmas collections. It is also famous for the Holy Blood altar piece in the St. Jakob Lutheran Church, with a vile of the blood of Christ (a relic) imbedded within.
Our hotel was located inside the city walls, and thus we could explore at leisure. We also could eat at some of the wonderful cafes and restaurants located there. We were delighted to eat German food in a wooden-beamed eatery–hare; sausages; pork knuckle; beef goulash; sauerkraut (to die for); hot potato salad; spaetzle and potato dumplings were the local delights chosen among our group. Of course, beer, both heffelweissen (wheat) and dunkel (dark), was enjoyed with the meal.
We are happy that Mike and Sandra and Sherlene have joined Allen and Rhonda, Kathy and me on this journey. They could not have started in a more idyllic place than Rothenburg ob der Tauber! WEG
Europe 2016: Pomp, Pride, and Piccadilly
Thousands gathered in front of the main gates of Buckingham Palace for the changing of the guard, a colorful pageantry with marching red-coated soldiers and mounted horsemen accompanied with the pomp of military bands. Our viewing station at the top of the Victoria Monument–in honor of 19th century Queen Victoria–was quite good. Our feet were quite tired after standing in place for two hours to watch the 45-minute ceremony.
This pageantry was soon followed by hushed reverence as we entered the sacred vastness of Westminster Abbey, the Christian center at the heart of all that is Great Britain. Light streaming through the beautiful stained glass windows fell upon the graves of royalty and commoners who shaped the English-speaking world and who were at the epicenter of world events and discovery. Scientists, poets, politicians, inventors, military leaders, and clergy with names known to many, if not most, lay at our feet. It was humbling and breathtaking. How thankful I was for educators in my past who inculcated in me the knowledge that allowed me to appreciate this greatness.
The long day ended with the bright lights of Piccadilly Circus, a tourist mecca with eateries and souvenir shops and theaters for live production. People, people, everywhere.
What a day of contrasts! WEG
P.S. Allen’s special request of shopping at Harrod’s was actually accomplished in between the pomp, pride, and Piccadilly of our day.
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