RELEASED
After a long day—testing, third platelet transfusion, port removal, meeting with my doctor team, meeting with the pharmacist, and paper signing—I WAS RELEASED from the Transplant Center to move to the Marriott. Kathy and I are now comfortably resting in our new digs. For how long—we do not know. I have an early Transplant Clinic appointment on Friday with testing, and the Doctor will give me further marching orders based on the results. If all goes well Kathy and I will go home soon. Today I start the 100 day countdown to getting back to “normal.” During this time I will be in isolation with the rules relaxing as tests indicate my white blood cell count has reached normal. Unbelievably, my white blood cell count reached 2.88 today and yesterday they did not give me a booster. 8.00 is the goal. I was 100% immune compromised at <0.1 a week ago, so now I am only 62% immune compromised. This is awesome to me. I have done so well that I was released four days early from the hospital. I escaped all the heavy duty side effects of the transplant to this point. God be praised!
The last days were a blur of testing and numbers crunching. I was getting antsy to “get out.” I learned something important about Covid and a hospital. Once one tests positive in the hospital it is on the record until removed with CDC protocols. I had not been removed, thus any time I entered a hospital in the future I would be put in quarantine immediately. I do not have Covid, the doctors told me I did not have it. The Infection Control Specialist could not answer how I could test positive in Quarantine—no answer on all my negative tests for Covid, with one errant positive in the hospital. Yet, CDC had me with Covid in Quarantine on the record. I wanted it erased and therefore I got more tests following CDC protocol and FINALLY with all negatives I have been officially cleared. All the warning signs on my door came down a few hours before I was released. I felt sorry for all the staff who had to wear three masks and protective clothing and gloves for seventeen days in order to come into my room. They never complained! The staff at Methodist Transplant Center are awesome!
Here are a few of the things that I did not think about before entering the Transplant Center: 85 finger pricks—didn’t see that coming; 145 restroom trips at all times of the day and night pushing my drug infusion tree along with me and measuring my urine output each time—quite tiring; 71 shots in arms or stomach—I thought since I had a port, everything would go there, well, not quite. Enough of those details. I think you get the picture. A normal question asked is: Looking back and seeing all you would go through in this procedure would you have done it? The answer is a resounding “Yes!” God gives you what you need! Honestly, I did not have any real “poor me” moment. I focused on the outcome desired and how I might respectably and lovingly treat the staff who were so kind to me. I had a purpose and with God’s help stuck with it.
Blessed we are! Kathy was able to attend a Houston Symphony and Houston Grand Opera Christmas production in the lobby of Methodist Hospital while I settled into our room at the Marriott just steps away. AND, Marriott upgraded us to a wonderful spacious suite that they cleaned for me with hospital protocol. I am so very thankful!
Isaiah 26: “You will keep him in perfect peace whose mind is stayed on You, because he trusts in You.”
Psalm 29: “The Lord gives His people strength, the Lord blesses them with peace.”
Praise Report: My numbers continue to quickly improve. My release early from the Transplant Center.
Prayer Request: To stay infection free during this transition time.
Turnip Blood
The past three days have been an in-between time when one’s body is trying to decide which way to go. While I have felt decent, I was not “up to snuff.” Since arrival, my blood sugar has wildly swung from 119 to 367. I have been getting insulin (never had it before) to keep the blood sugar inbounds. At home, without all the steroids and drugs, my blood sugar is normally between 120 and 130. The doctors say, with time, my blood sugar should return to normal rates and no more insulin.
In addition to this, my plasma rates fell very low and I needed plasma transfusions—two of them over two days. Plasma rates have improved but are still not in the acceptable range. While dealing with that, my temperature decided to spike. When it reached 100.8 (100.4 is the limit), automatic neutrophil protocols were put into place—to ward off infection. Soon, five nurses were in my room. Many antibiotics were hooked up to my port and blood samples from my arms became necessary—from both arms to have comparisons in the lab. They met their match with my veins. I’ve been on two surgical tables in pre-op where my surgery was delayed because no veins could be found—one after nine deep sticks. I must say, the nurses were wonderful! After 45 minutes, my left arm gave two vials. Unfortunately, my right arm refused to cooperate. After trying hard, the team said, “No more.” It seems there is an “if all else fails” protocol—they could access my port for the blood. However, that meant they needed to put in new “gismos” in which to stick the needles in order to minimize the possibility of a foreign culture being drawn into the blood sample. It takes a full five days to get the final lab report, but my doctors have informed me that any danger would soon reveal itself and, in my case, none has. My temperature has returned to near normal. It turns out I am the “turnip”, as in, “You can’t get blood out of a turnip.” I like turnips (raw, not cooked) so I guess that is a good thing. (Yes, there is an ultra sound machine designed to find veins, and it has been used previously on me here at Methodist; however, I am in quarantine now.)
Today is a “good news” day! My white blood cell count has gone up to .38 (from -.01), which means my transplanted cells have engrafted and are reproducing. After my white blood cell count reaches .50 and remains there for at least two days, my doctors tell me I can be released from the hospital! As a result, my doctor stated Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday become a possible release date for me, God willing. Kathy and I will then move to the Marriott—connected via sky bridge to the hospital—for one week to be close, just in case, and to keep us from having to make the long drive in and out of the Medical Center for the numerous clinic visits I must make the first week after release. (The Marriott has several suites with hospital clean protocols, and we have one of those reserved.) I will still be quarantined, but freer in new “digs.” I am very grateful, especially also for Kathy who has not only endured this journey, but contributed to my comfort and security in numerous ways.
We have entered the Season of Advent as we head toward the Christmastide. It occurred to me that Advent is the beginning of a new Christian Church Year, and my new beginning coincides harmoniously with a new church year. Our God is immutable, always the same, yesterday and into the future. I (We) have the promise of Jesus—“I am with you, even unto the end of the earth.” Therefore, I know Who holds my future ever so wondrously. I (We) can enter every new cycle of life with joy and hope. Advent points us to joy and hope in Jesus, long prophesied and then fulfilled in the Babe of Bethlehem. Join me in treasuring this truth!
In John chapter 10, Jesus tells us, “I came that they may have life and have it abundantly…I am the Good Shepherd, the Good Shepherd lays down His life for the sheep…I know My own and My own know Me.”
Praise Report: The “turn”—Transplanted white blood cells are engrafted and reproducing.
Prayer Requests: That the transplant process continues unhindered by unforeseen circumstances.
Rusty Screw Death Trap
I officially now have no immunity! My white blood cell count is 0.1 and still falling. My old stem cells are gone. My body is now at its most vulnerable state to contract an infection. Imagine my surprise when I found a rusty screw with a very protruding “shank” on the toilet paper dispenser in my “Quarantine in Isolation” hospital room. I am not even allowed to use a battery-powered toothbrush for fear of cutting my gums and getting an infection. The soft bristle toothbrush they gave me is utterly useless! I’ve decided it is better to just put some toothpaste in a little water and swish it around in the mouth and call it a day. Whoops—I typed that too soon. My nurse just looked in my restroom and asked, “Where is the toothpaste we gave you?”—I didn’t know nurse training included a “spy on the patient” course. I said I was using it. “No” she replied, “we gave you two types.” I said I used the other one and didn’t like it. She said, “Get it because I’m taking the other away from you. The new toothpaste is anti-viral.”
But I digress: How did I discover this screw? Kathy and I surmised that hospital toilet paper would be rather cheap and with regular use feel like sandpaper, so we brought our own with us. I keep it on a shelf within reach of the commode. Since the hospital “sandpaper’ is in the double roll dispenser, I simply reach for our soft toilet paper and place it on top of the double roll dispenser’s flat top surface. Yesterday, when I was finished, I tried to move my toilet paper back to its place on the shelf and it stuck and shredded some of the paper. Curious, I inspected and found the protruding metal shard from the screw. Upon further inspection I noticed that the screw was not stainless steel as was the double roll dispenser, but a regular screw that was now rusted. If I had rubbed my hand over that spot, it could have easily cut my hand open. I quickly envisioned the staff patching me up and putting me on huge antibiotics to keep me alive. Would it work? Thankfully, it didn’t get that far. I reported the problem and the hospital maintenance man recently left my room having fixed the issue.
Humorously, in my confinement, my mind has gone wild. I made up headlines announcing my death from various sources as a result of that screw:
Insurance Company: Hospital Patient Dies from Unknown Cause
Hospital: Patient Ignores the Rules and Dies
Kathy, my Wife: Beloved Husband Dies in Hospital while Maintaining Routine Health Regimen
Real Headline Making National News: Nasty Insurance Court Case has Architectural Firm, Maintenance Company, Foundry Supplier and Construction Company in Legal Tussle over Who’s Responsible for Hospital Patient’s Death Because of Faulty Screw
Secondary Headline: Legal and Industrial Forensics Experts Weigh In
OK, enough of that! In other news. My recent Covid test returned negative. Amazing! They do not know what to make of my three negative and one positive test results. My doctor team informed me that no matter the diagnosis, it has nil effect on my treatment. Unfortunately, I will not get out of this “Quarantine in Isolation” room. Thus, no hall walking or workout in the exercise room. God willing, I’ll be back home before the CDC makes an official declaration that I am free of Covid. Thus, my doctor team told me they were not instructing me, simply empowering me, to politely refuse any more Covid tests. Yep! No more unnecessary intrusions on my day that make absolutely no difference in my quarantine status. Everyone knows I do not have Covid, but the CDC will not make that official until all the protocols, now taking an extra two weeks, are followed. (I realize these protocols are for the protection of not only myself, but also the other patients and staff on the floor—that is why Kathy and I are content in our cozy room.)
Philippians 4: “And my God will supply every need (even as protection from something as minute as a rusty screw shard) of yours according to His riches in glory in Christ Jesus. To our God and Father be glory forever and ever. Amen.”
Praise Report: Another negative Covid test result. White Blood Cells reaching the desired low number. Awesome staff at the hospital. That I made it to Day 7—(10th day in the hospital)—in good shape.
Prayer Request: That my stem cell booster being given this evening will work as expected, thus causing my transplanted stem cells to engraft. That possible side effects of the transplant process continue to be kept at bay.
Covid…Quarantine…Baby Food
How?! Today, I was informed I tested positive for Covid! How?? This is after I had tested negative for Covid two separate times on entry for the stem cell transplant. Here is the simple answer. When the white blood cells start dying due to the potent chemo one receives for the transplant, the white blood cell count drops steadily and significantly, exposing any deep-seated virus/viruses. My labs exposed that hidden particle of virus. My doctors are clear—I DO NOT HAVE COVID, AND I AM NOT CONTAGIOUS! However, due to Center for Disease Control guidelines, I must be quarantined. To say that my doctors are displeased is an understatement! Here is the technical description from my hospital MyChart: “positive results…may be caused by residual viral nucleic acid fragments persisting in the upper respiratory tract, subgenomic particles, or other factors associated with noninfectious virus.”
So what does quarantine in an isolation hospital floor look like? Yes, you got that right–I went from isolation to quarantine within isolation! Is there any other possible way to get me further removed from humanity??! Kathy and I were moved from our spacious room all decorated and set up for our stay into a much smaller room on the same floor. We will now be “cozy” and we will survive. Kathy is already busy fixing it up and it looks wonderful. This room has an outer room before the hallway, really isolating us. That room is forbidden to me. So, no more walking in the hallways (I was over 2 miles daily in laps prior). Kathy has limited ability to leave. The good news is that since she cannot use my restroom, her restroom is now much closer than before. We also have a great view over the beautiful Houston Medical Center. I must remain quarantined for the duration of my stay. Unfortunately for the staff, they must take extra precautions in visiting me.
My doctor today suggested baby food as my numbers fall towards zero (a good thing). My digestive system is being stripped. Soft foods are better at preventing severe diarrhea. Our wonderful Salem Life Group provided bonafide baby foods off the grocery store shelf and delivered them. The hospital kitchen is pureeing my meals as well. This will probably last for several days.
About my white blood cell numbers. The chemo killed the bad white cells with a defective protein that attacked my bone marrow. When I entered the hospital my white blood cell count was 8.7. The goal is to get it as close to 0.1 as possible. It is now at 1.17 and falling. Once it falls below 0.99 the good stem cells (with good white blood cells) harvested from my body after over six months of immunomonoclonal targeted therapy can begin to replant and reproduce in my bone marrow. The purpose of the stem cell transplant is to give me more good years in the future, not tied down to weekly infusions of drugs that limit my mobility. I will be on a maintenance drug, probably a pill, not yet determined. As always, they remind me that they will not be able to kill all the bad protein and at some point multiple myeloma will actively return. God willing, this stem cell transplant will buy me more years of productive living.
Romans 8:28 – “We know that for those who love God all things work together for good,
for those who are called according to His purpose.”
Praise Report: My numbers are falling appropriately. Cardiologists report my heart is in good shape. (I anticipate getting my monitor taken off tomorrow.)
Prayer Request: Numbers fall as low as possible. Good stem cells be super-charged to replant and reproduce (a several days’ process).
Rapid Response Team to the Rescue
All I knew was that I was being shaken and my name called out and being loudly instructed to keep my eyes open. Soon, the several nurses and aides in the room were joined by many specialists with the RRT, Rapid Response Team. Several of them were heart specialists.
By God’s Grace, when I arose around 3 AM to use the restroom on my own without waking Kathy, a nurse was entering our room to take my vitals. Later, she and I agreed that my guardian angel had sent her at that exact time: (Martin Luther’s evening prayer includes the words, “Into your hands I commend my body and soul and all things. Let your Holy Angel be with me, that the wicked foe may have no power over me. Amen.”) Nurse Jonie told me, “I’ll wait here for you to finish.” It was not long when I began to feel strangely. I called out for the nurse, “Ma’am!” Kathy had been sound asleep. The nurse rushed to my side as I collapsed onto the commode. I’ll spare you the gruesome details—I was as ill as I have ever been. The nurse pulled the red emergency cord, as my body, for lack of better words, tingled all over, and I began the slow walk towards delirium. I simply lost track of time and space. I did pass out, but the nurse pinned my body against the wall so I would not fall. More nurses arrived. The shaking of my body and the yelling in my face by the nurses allowed me to come back, and a special gismo—a very ingenious cart—allowed the staff to transport me from the restroom to my bed in decent order. The RRT arrived immediately. Through all of this, Kathy awoke, and though concerned, she knew she could do nothing physically to help. She told me later her prayer was, “Please Lord, don’t let him die like this.”
I was told my eyes were fixed, and my face was as white as a sheet. But now I am back to what is considered normal for someone in a stem cell transplant process. Obviously, I have had very little sleep. I have been hooked up to yet more machines. I have been put on oxygen. I have been visited by many specialists. I have had numerous tests run, especially for the heart. One of the major side effects of stem cell transplant is cardiac issues. My cardiac tests, minus the most recent for which I have no report yet, have all returned good. One of the main reasons I chose Methodist Houston Medical Center for my transplant is that it is one of the best heart hospitals in the world. I have now tested out their immediate response team, and they passed with flying colors. I will, however, be seeing another cardiac specialist tomorrow, in abundance of caution. God is good!
After watching online worship and a visit from a stem cell transplant specialist, I am ready for the day, maybe some sleep! My specialist informed me that my childhood bulbar polio quite possibly had something to do with my episode since the polio affected my lungs and nervous system. They will find out more as time goes by.
Once again to each of you—your prayers and encouragement lift up both Kathy and me! Awesome!
Psalm 34: “I will bless the Lord at all times; His praise shall continually be in my mouth…I sought the Lord and He answered me and delivered me from all my fears…The angel of the Lord encamps around those who fear Him and delivers them. Oh, taste and see that the Lord is good! Blessed is the man who takes refuge in Him.” (The Brooklyn Tabernacle Choir has a beautiful rendition of these words. Either YouTube.com Brooklyn Tabernacle Choir Psalm 34-live-or ask Alexa to play Brooklyn Tabernacle Choir Psalm 34.)
Praise Report: That I lived for another day to praise the Lord and tell of His goodness! To God be the glory! Magnificent hospital staff!
Prayer Request: That my transplanted stem cells perform properly over the next nine days. (The following days are statistically the roughest days of the transplant process.) My stamina for the trials to come—that I plant my heart and eyes on Jesus, the Author and Perfecter of my faith.
Tomato Basil Man
Shortly after my harvested stem cells, that had been frozen following their harvest several weeks ago, were infused back into my body, I started smelling like tomato basil soup. Kathy has the essential oil diffuser going full steam and is feeding me breath mints. Funny thing is, I cannot smell it. Smelling oddly is a by-product of the process and should last only three days.
Kathy and I stayed at the Medical Center Marriott Sunday night which has a sky bridge right into Methodist Hospital lobby. Methodist Transplant Center is where my transplant is taking place. Early Monday, we were admitted, but labs delayed getting a permanent room until noon. Then the fun began with being wheeled down to surgery to remove my previous internal port used for my immunomonoclonal targeted therapy over the past seven months and adding a new larger external port. This process was a piece of cake. Amazingly pain free. Back up to our room on the 15th floor, I was hooked up to many monitors and another lab and then the pre-transplant bags of various medicines started flowing through the new port into my body. I also received nausea pills. At 8:30 pm I started eating ice and popsicles to cool down my throat and mouth to help keep painful sores from forming. I also received two mouthwashes to gargle throughout the day. So far, so good. Then came the potent chemo infusion of Malphalan, which is intended to kill all the bad stuff—like cancer!—in my body. Yes, lots of blood tests and monitoring of my body. I did not have any reactions, God be praised!
We have a nice room with huge windows looking over the Houston Medical Center. When doctors and nurses and other staff come into the room they are impressed and say our room is so homey. One nurse even told us she thinks she has walked into a sanctuary every time she enters our room. That is because Kathy has made it so with wonderful items from home to cheer it up. We also brought an Alexa to play music in the room. We went out shopping before we left home for the transplant process and purchased some needed items. I needed many changes of comfortable clothing. We purchased eleven plain cotton t-shirts so that Kathy could cut a slit in the area of the port allowing the tubes to easily hang out and not be discombobulated under clothing. The nurses love this. We also purchased new bedding for Kathy’s bed in my room and she has a cozy bed area. I understand why the hospital requests a caregiver in the room. Kathy is busy helping me, relieving the staff of many tasks. I cannot express how blessed I am with a wife who is so awesome!
Tuesday was a rest day. It went by quickly. Methodist food is decent. I walk as much as possible, but when I am heavily monitored with machines, getting free is difficult.
Today was transplant day. Six bags of my earlier harvested stem cells were quickly infused. The stem cells had been harvested at the best possible time when my numbers were excellent after having received six months of therapy treatments. Following the infusion, I was able to be taken off several machines which allows me much more freedom of movement. We have been playing praise music in the room which is uplifting and comforting. The next ten days are challenging with the possibility of side effects of the transplant popping up. “There’s nothing better than you (God)” is playing now reminding me that God is in control. Trust in God’s mercy and kindness is my calling now. That brings peace to my heart and soul. Nothing is better than being lifted up by the Everlasting Arms of my Lord.
To one and all—thank you for your encouragement and prayers. You are a blessing in my life! Also, may you be blessed on your Thanksgiving celebrations. A thankful heart is a strong core to being at peace in difficult times as well as good times.
“Give thanks in all circumstances; for this is God’s will for you in Christ Jesus. First Thessalonians 5:18”
Praise Report—Kathy praying over each infusion bag of my stem cells as they were being pumped into my body.
Prayer Request—Strength for the days to follow and limited side effects.
INCARCERATION– AKA, STEM CELL TRANSPLANT
Kathy and I will head down to the Medical Center next Sunday, November 19. We will stay overnight at the Med Center Marriott since I have an early morning appointment at the Transplant Center at Methodist Hospital to begin the Stem Cell Transplant Process on the 20th.
Kathy and I met with my doctor team last Monday, November 6, for final labs and to sign my life away with all the paperwork required for the transplant. Today, we teleconferenced with the pharmacist at the Transplant Center to get all my meds in place. On Friday, my hair will be shorn as I will lose it anyway. That way I will not have to deal with it falling out when I am sick during the transplant process.
Here is a brief outline of what I can expect to experience:
Day -2 (Monday): Surgery to remove my current implanted port (not large enough for the many different medications to which I will be connected). Surgery to put in a new external port. Short break to test new port during which time I will begin eating ice to ward off, as best as possible, ulcers that develop in the mouth and esophagus as a result of chemo. Then, heavy dose of Melphalan, a potent chemo that will destroy all the stem cells in my body resulting in no immunity by the next morning.
Day -1 (Tuesday): A rest day. I could be weak and sick. They promise they will stay on top of my body’s reaction with medications.
Day 1 (Wednesday)- My previously collected stem cells which were as cancer free as possible after my immunomonoclonal targeted therapy over almost seven months will be infused back into my body. My body will not like this.
Days 2-9: My body will be reacting to the new stem cells and could be doing cart wheels. I will be on various medications as the doctors monitor my body.
Days 10-14: The infused stem cells will replant and begin to reproduce. (It is tremendously rare for the stem cells to not reproduce.)
Days 15-21: I should be feeling stronger. I will be monitored for the stem cell reproduction rate as the protein levels in my blood will indicate when I can be released from the transplant center.
Kathy will stay with me in the hospital. The rooms in the transplant center are large and quite nice. The entire floor of the transplant center is an isolation ward, not just my room, so as I feel better and stronger I can walk the area. I asked for a gosling down pillow for my bed and a meal of King Crab, and the doctors just laughed with me. Turns out I really am being incarcerated for at least three weeks.
As Kathy and I are together in the hospital room, we recognize it’s not just the two of us, but the Lord will be with us to bless us, not only through His guiding of medical wonders, but also in His Word and promise. May God make us a blessing to all who gather around us in this time.
“Now to Him who is able to do far more abundantly than all we ask or think—according to the power at work within us—to Him be glory in the church and in Christ Jesus throughout all generations, forever and ever. Amen! (Ephesians 3:20-21)”
Prayer Request: Smooth processes. Limited side effects from the transplant process. Blessings on my doctors and staff who attend to me. A spirit of thanksgiving in my heart, no matter the outcome.
Rough Seas at the “End of the World”
October 29 – November 3, 2023
The night of October 29, 2023, we sailed through an inlet that opened into the Pacific Ocean. They warned us that it could be rough, and sure enough, it was! That, however, was only a taste of what was to come.
As always, our meals on the small cruise ship, the Ventus Australis, were amazing. Wonderful, inventive and creative choices every meal. I rarely could eat everything put in front of me. Thankfully, we were getting lots of good exercise on our excursions.
I decided to take a rest day on October 30 while Kathy ventured out to Wulaia Bay where she observed the history and lifestyle of the nomadic Yaghan people who first populated the area.
That night, the Australis turned towards Cape Horn, the southernmost point in South America. It is less than 600 miles from Antarctica. The seas were really rough throughout the night–“Rockin’ and a-Rollin’!” There were times I was not sure I could keep from rolling off the bed. We were cruising right where the Atlantic and the Pacific meet at the bottom of the world. We were scheduled for a 6 AM zodiac ride to the lighthouse on the island; however, the sea’s turbulence did not permit it, so we were content to cruise around the Horn and receive a document from the captain stating we had reached the “End of the World.” As the Australis turned towards Ushuaia, Argentina, the seas calmed and the trip, while beautiful with clear blue waters and snow-covered mountains on every side, was uneventful.
The next morning, we bid our fine cruise ship good-bye and moved into our hotel in Ushuaia, the largest city in Patagonia, with about 80,000 people. The setting of the city is awesome. Forests extended from our hotel right up to the snow of the peaks behind us. Below us was the ocean. We spent most of the day touring the beautiful Tierra del Fuego National Park filled with lakes, forests and mountains.
The next morning we boarded a plane for our trip back to Buenos Aires where our journey began. Our hotel was awesome and the evening enchanting. It was tango night! Our theatre restaurant was iconic and atmospheric. It harkened back to the 1940’s/50’s. I thought our meals had been beyond excellent the entire trip, but this one was a level beyond. Everything Argentina is known for was on a plate in front of us, and Argentinian wines flowed freely. I savored every bite! Then the show started. Wow! Tango tunes roared from the band and the tango dancers danced away. Suddenly, a soloist appeared and sang popular tango tunes from over the years. The crowd from around the world really got into it. I very much appreciated the pan pipe and flute band, playing “gaucho” music. But the gaucho dancer took the breath away as he swung leather ropes with wooden balls attached to the end and whirled them around with the balls hitting the floor in time with the music all the while he danced and flipped and cartwheeled. The tribute to Eva Peron (“Evita”), the beloved wife of dictator Juan Peron, was moving. Images of her and the 100’s of thousands who flocked to her wherever she went filled the screen. A soloist sang–quite excellently–“Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina.” We thoroughly enjoyed the hour and a half program. The next morning, November 2, we spent time with our fellow travelers at our lovely hotel before heading to the airport for our overnight trip home, arriving safely on November 3. How blessed we were to experience the majesty of God’s creation in a place I really did not know much about. Southern South America, a place known as Patagonia–who knew what wanders it held? Thankful, thankful we are, and blessed!
Penguins
Friday, October 27, 2023 – Sunday, October 29, 2023
Penguins are such cute creatures. I was looking forward to seeing them in their natural habitat, but before we could see them we had to have a day of transition from Puerto Natales, Chile, to our small expedition cruise ship, the Ventus Australis, in Punta Arenas, Chile. We stopped at a ship museum on the way and explored a full size replica of the Victoria, the ship Ferdinand Magellan and his team used to circumvent the globe (the first to do so) in the early 1500’s.
The procedure to board the Ventus Australis was easy. Once aboard, we explored the comfortable ship and attended a “Welcome Aboard” party which also included safety instructions. There are 92 passengers on board and 64 crew. We soon discovered that the bar and snack area are open from 8 am to midnight and, best of all, it is free. Our meals are scrumptious and are accompanied with appropriate wines. Unfortunately (or fortunately) for me, my doctors have me off all alcoholic drinks. Those who know me, know I do not really drink liquor anyway. During the night, the ship docked in the beautiful Ainsworth Bay with mountains encircling us. We saw no one else in the bay.
Arising the next morning, October 28, we saw snow-covered mountains on each side of the Magellan Straits on which we cruised. It is as if we could reach out and touch them. Right after lunch, we arrived at the Tucker Islets. Here, we boarded zodiacs. We learned the “cha, cha, cha” boarding technique–one foot on the top boarding ladder, moving the other foot forward onto the wide rubber top of the zodiac while grasping an arm hold with the attendant, then moving the ladder foot down onto the zodiac’s wooden platform. Speeding in the zodiac to the Tucker Islets, I was getting sprayed with water since I was in the front. Soon, we began to see the prized Magellan Penguins on one of the islets (small island).
Right now only males are on the Islets preparing the nests for the mating season soon to begin. The females are still swimming and are located somewhere off the coast of Argentina. All the penguins winter (during our summer) near Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. As we zodiacked from islet to islet, we saw more and more penguins. The islets are a preserved area, so we could not set foot on them; the penguins were only a few feet away. They are not afraid of humans. The Tucker Islets are a bird preserve and we saw colonies of both Imperial Cormorants (they look like penguins but can fly) and Magellan Cormorants who nest in the cliff sides.
We learned two non-native invasive species were threatening Patagonia, especially the birds. Beaver and mink are destroying the ecosystem. At the present time, no control method has been found. The evening had a very informative presentation on glaciers.
The next day was dedicated to visiting and viewing glaciers. Patagonia has the greatest contraction of ice after Antarctica and the Arctic. While spring here, it has been snowing on and off. Beautiful. Kathy stayed in while I braved the elements to stand close up to the Glacier Pia.
It was cold and snowing and the Beagle Channel in which we cruised was filled with ice. The zodiac popped up and down with the waves as the driver tried to miss large chunks of floating ice. Pia Glacier is noted for the constant rumbling and thunderous sounds it makes as the ice moves to the Channel. It is one of the world’s fastest moving glaciers. It also calves often and I was fortunate to see that happen twice. The first calving caused a large wave. As we turned to walk back to the zodiac, it began to sleet. Driven by the wind, it stung as it hit the face. Once back on the ship, I was thankful I had braved the elements and happy to take a hot shower.
I didn’t have long because we were soon cruising through the famed Glacier Alley where six glaciers move down the mountains into the Beagle Channel. So large, most are named after countries–Germany, France, Italy, and Holland. The Channel is narrow and snow-capped mountains reach skyward; however, all the glaciers are on the same side. As Kathy and I sat in a lounge at the rear of the ship, a waiter brought us snacks and drinks. After a while, I realized the snacks and drinks matched the glaciers outside–beer and pretzels for Germany, champagne and cheese for France, pizza and wine for Italy, etc. Snow was falling outside. I picked this lounge because right outside was an observation deck where I could easily take photographs. The cruise was magical, the glaciers as impressive as beautiful.
Patagonia Splendor
Wednesday and Thursday, October 25 & 26, 2023
We left El Calafate, Argentina, on Wednesday, October 25, on a five hour journey to Puerto Natales, Chile. As our bus traversed the Andean steppes (high plains) we made a halfway stop at a 73,000 acre (not a misprint) Estancia (ranch). The owner and his wife greeted us and the “gaucho” gave us a history of the ranch. His young great grandfather from Scotland, in the 1860’s, accidentally got on the wrong ship. He thought he was going to the Caribbean, but instead ended up in Argentina. He was industrious and was able to procure this huge acreage. Today, the Estancia has 3,000 sheep. The owner demonstrated his border collies bringing in a flock of sheep from far afield–really interesting as he only used whistles from his mouth to direct the border collies. This puts a whole new meaning to the phrase, “Whistle while you work!”
Then he sheered a ewe in the sheering barn with the wool being all in one piece. Spreading out the wool on a rack he began to separate the wool into various portions based on the quality of the wool. It was all so very interesting and we were happy to eat the grilled lamb we were served in the beautiful home in which the owner lived.
From the Estancia we headed to the Chilean border. After the cold dry scrub brush steppes of Argentina’s Patagonia, Chile’s steppes were on lower elevations and nearer the Pacific and thus much greener because of the higher amounts of rain. We arrived in Puerto Natales in late afternoon and had a casual evening. Our beautiful eco-hotel has an unusual design with grass roofs. Our rooms are uber comfortable.
Puerto Natales is situated between between the Andes and the Pacific and is the gateway to the National Park Torres Del Paine. Our two hour drive to the park was stunningly beautiful and once in the park we were overwhelmed with the white peaks on every side and around every turn. Waterfalls, streams, rivers, blue lakes, mountain flowers and forested trees were everywhere! It is spring here and spring snows left a fresh covering. It reached 42F today and at times was windy; however, the bright sunshine kept us comfortable. Andean condors, the largest flying bird (wing span 10 feet), often flew over head. Andean geese, ducks with white heads and flamingos loved the lakes. Guanacos, similar to a llama, run wild by the millions in Patagonia. We saw many. We had an outdoor picnic beside an immensely blue lake under towering jagged peaks covered in snow. Unforgettable! We drove back to Puerto Natales on a different route that was as beautiful as the drive to the park!
Our evening meal was at the hotel and the menu was amazing. Choices between octopus to eel and many other exotic foods in between for appetizers and mains served with choices of Chilean wines made for a delightful evening, and the dessert options were wonderful as well. Tomorrow, we leave to travel deeper into Patagonia and to board our small cruise ship which will get us to more amazing sights ending at the very tip of South America known as “the end of the earth.” We will be in “no man’s land,” no phones or internet, so I won’t post for awhile. Blessings to all!
kgraumann
wgraumann
