Italy is known for so many things, but I suppose if you asked most folks what comes to mind when they think of Italy, pizza would be in the top 10 or top 2 even. So, since we have been here, I have consumed my share of the oval, not perfectly round here, delicacies or also the square ones sold by the piece in many walkups. They say it was invented in Napoli, but it is omnipresent in every corner of Italy. I have seen it made with French fries and hot dog slices (Italian hot dogs are somewhat different than US ones and they are categorized as a type of sausage); with buffalo mozzarella nearly always in globs not melted across the whole; with sausage slices of every description, but hardly ever with pepperoni; with tomato sauce and without; with vegetables; with fish or chicken and rarely with any kind of beef and always with thin crust.

What are the restaurants like in which the pizza is sold? First of all, the restaurants are called by different names:

A Ristorante is like any full service restaurant but here they tend to be in unique settings. We have eaten in brick vaulted rooms and rooms with old archways and rooms with painted ceilings. One of the most beautiful was in Ravenna in an old library that had 600 year old frescoes on the ceilings and the tables were the ancient book stalls. I’ll be honest–I didn’t eat pizza here, although it was on the menu.

A Trattoria is a casual eatery that may have family style service and local fare. In France it’s a bistro; in Spain, it’s a tapas bar and in England, it’s a pub.

An Osteria is a wine bar and simple food establishment that prides itself on local specialties, and you may eat on shared tables. These can be quite crowded, and it is expected that you will rub shoulders.

Then there are the walk up bars or stores with pizza under glass and you order by the slice and it is warmed for you and you stand and eat or find a small chair to ease into or take and eat outside. Often times, gelato is sold in these same walkups.

So, what is the Graumannater PizzaRater opinion of real Italian pizza? It’s good. It’s all about the crust and simple ingredients that happen to be on hand that day. Nothing fussy–no cheese in the crust or deep dish, no overwhelming cheesiness, no thick sauce–just good down home taste that brings you back for more, since you did not overeat when you ate the whole thing. And, it tastes good with either wine or beer, but in Italy, it is usually wine. WEG

Coming soon to a blog site near you–Graumannfufu the Fashion Guru. What Italian Fashion Houses are springing on the world from an onsite fashion expert and with pictures. Tell your friends, as this will be everyone’s guide to a new you with a new wardrobe.

“So, is your ‘encore life’ trip what you thought it would be?” is a question we have been asked. I do not know if it is exactly what I thought it would be, but it is what I hoped it would be.

–I had hoped for a trip that combined exciting and interesting things to see and do, with time to rest and reflect. If you are the sort of person who must pack it in every day while on vacation, then this kind of trip, where you park for a month at a time, might not work for you. I have loved having so many museums, parks, restaurants, historic buildings, cultural events, etc. within easy reach. I have also loved being able to sleep in or stay up late or take a nap when I wanted to do so.

–I had hoped for a trip that allowed me the flexibility to decide what to do on my schedule. Of course, if you buy tickets to an event you must schedule it or your day around it. If you have a rent car or airline or train ticket, you need to be on scheduled time. However, staying in one place did allow for many flex days. Or for days where you did what most tourists do but on your schedule. Like a bridge, I can walk over it and touch the statues or stop and lean on the railing and watch the river rush by. Like a church, sit and meditate after you have looked at the beauty of the building and art work or better yet, go to a service among the people. See the old gentleman approach the rail and kneel and fervently pray. Sit in thanksgiving when another gentleman comes to you while sitting and asks, “Do you like my church?” And then listen as he proudly gives you a history lesson and points out the stunning Madonna and Child painting from the 1200s that is the center piece of the altar.

–I had hoped for a trip where we could eat in or eat out–our choice, sort of like home, but in a unique setting. The apartment choice was a good one for us. Thankfully, the pictures online matched what we got. We have room to spread out, good sleeping quarters, efficient kitchens with all that is needed to cook in and we are well placed to historic sites and markets and transportation. It is home away from home.

–I had hoped for a trip where Kathy and I could have both quality and quantity time together. That has happened and we enjoy each other and our journey.

–I had hoped for a trip where folks could meet up with us if that worked out and it has for some and we have loved it. Experiencing a journey and adventure with others is a delightful thing to do. WEG

Old city centers in Europe are not airport terminals, especially when it comes to flooring. So when you go to buy that new suitcase, first ask yourself, over what kind of terrain am I going to be pulling this thing. If every surface you will encounter is flat and smooth then the modern four wheel spinner might be just what you need. However, if the majority of surfaces you will pull your suitcases over are rough, then the traditional bags with two big wheels are much better. Just ask my wife.

Really, just ask me! I am pulling her four wheel spinner over the cobblestone streets of the world. I told her not to buy it…I told her the little wheels on the bag would not roll over rough surfaces…I told her I was getting a non de script two big wheel bag because I was positive we would have cobblestone surfaces of all kinds on our travels…I told her that if it wouldn’t roll then it would be almost impossible to pull those little wheels over old cobblestone…I, er, she had her own ideas and and it was purple and faux alligator with a matching carry on bag to boot. All common sense went by the wayside.

Guess who cannot pull the bag over rough surfaces and guess how many times she has actually rolled the thing herself and you guessed it–guess who is now pulling her bag? Take a cab, you say. Well, that could be an option if, in fact, taxis were allowed to drive on your streets in the old town–they aren’t. Just get a new bag, you say. That is not an option since she is so attached to the purple thing that she sleeps with it by the bedside.

Here is the deal–I am pulling a purple, faux alligator four wheel spinner over cobblestone streets. The matching purse/carryon bag is attached and because my wife is afraid of pickpockets, she has a bright sparkly scarf tied around the straps of the matching purse bag. She walks lolly gagging 50 feet behind me so that it looks to others as if this is my bag. I have encountered more than one set of raised eyebrows. I like attention, but this is the wrong kind. Next time, I’m buying the bags! WEG

The crowds are starting to build up in Florence as Easter nears. On our long walk today we actually ran into our first people jam in front of San Lorenzo Church, the church built by the Medici’s, the powerful Renaissance banking family. Florence is in a frenzy getting things in order for the big tourist season to come. Overnight, plazas are planted with new flowers and plants. Scaffolding is coming down to reveal newly plastered or painted buildings. Heavily walked streets have been repaved with new cobblestone or old cobblestone repaired. Streets are being hand swept. It’s Easter and company’s coming! The buzz on the streets is almost electric.

As we walked today, we came upon two churches that are not big tourist draws in this art rich city. They were beautiful and historic and one was breathtaking upon entry. The first, San Marco, is known as Fra Angelico’s church because he designed it and it contains some of this great artist’s best paintings. It was also the church led by Savonarola, a reform minded priest before Luther, who was eventually burned at the stake for his views. The next was the Church of the Annunciation, set in a rustic square and an interior that was a riot of color and art and texture. I was totally intrigued by its haunting beauty and by the image of the Virgin Mary from the early 1200s. I was struck by the thought that within these two churches are a vast accumulation of great art, more than in many city museums in other parts of the world, and yet, here in Florence, they get little to no mention and Kathy and I simply stumbled into them on a walk. WEG

Kathy and I went for a brisk and long walk along the River Arno today. The weather was outstanding–clear and cool with a warm sun–exactly what I like. Here are a few more tidbits about how things work in Italy, at least Florence.

–Waste disposal. There is no trash pick up. You take your trash to an area disposal site. Thankfully, ours is just steps away from our apartment entrance. The site has several large receptacles that have a foot pedal. They are marked for plastic, glass etc. You push the foot pedal and the receptacle opens–you put the trash in and it gulps it down into a huge container below. Starting next year, residents will be given a magnetic key that has your personal information on it and you will wave it at the receptacle and it will open and measure how much you put in and meter that amount and you will pay tax on the amount you put in monthly.

–Tobacco Shop. They are plentiful and this is where you buy tickets, especially for the bus system.

–Water Closets. Yes, you pay to use public ones. They are clean and constantly disinfected, so that is a plus. The cost is between 1 and 2E. You do not use one in a store or restaurant unless you are buying something. They watch closely.

–Pedestrian only. Florence has large pedestrian only streets. They are clearly marked with a sign with a red light. Drive past the light without a permit (taxi or delivery truck) and the camera takes your photo and the fine is an automatic 150E.

–Cobblestone. Kathy brought one of those four wheeler spinner bags. I thought that the two wheeler was better. I was right. The four wheeler will not go over the cobblestone easily and cobblestone is everywhere. The two wheeler is a trooper. Guess who has to lug the four wheeler. That’s right–Kathy. I said, “You wanted it, you have it.” Actually, I grit my teeth and do it. What makes it worse is that it is purple. WEG

While much is the same–they drive on the same side of the street in Italy–some things are different. It is like you have just enough knowledge and familiarity to get you into trouble.

–Watch where you drive. Randy was driving in Lucca when they were here. The US GPS said drive here–the older folks were wildly waving us down–it was the city wall, built in the Middle Ages for fortification and not driving. I told Randy it looked like a sidewalk–he said all the streets were narrow. How do you spell retreat? Melisa talked Spanish so they would not know we were Americans. At least that’s how I remember it now that they have returned home. Randy might suggest that I told him to drive there, but his memory would be faulty on that point.
–Get out at closing time. We were on the last gondola down from Mount Baldo in Malcesine on Lake Garda. I needed to use the restroom in the big visitor center below as we exited the gondola. I did. It was then that we discover we were locked in. Thankfully one remaining attendant noticed Kathy and Melisa as he was exiting. He had to unlock the doors and open the underground garage where our car was parked to let us out. Imagine what would have happened if he had not noticed them. I had not been in the restroom long. When they have a closing time, they mean it.
–Take a number. You can get into big trouble by pointing to something you want when you do not have a number from the omnipresent little number machine. Most are manual, some automatic. The manual ones are often stuck. You still need a number. I have learned how to unstick them now and glare at tourists who ignorantly don’t get one. OK, I am not the glaring kind of person; I help them.
–Gloves, please. You take the plastic gloves and put them on before you pick up fruit or vegetables. This is the European way. We are getting used to it and actually like it.
–Weigh it right. They do not weigh fruits and vegetables at checkout; you must weigh them when you get them. You select fruit or vegetable on the screen first, then punch in the two digit number for the item (only two digits, easy to remember) with a picture beside the number that is like the item being purchased. The machine spits out the cost quickly. You stick it on the bag and continue on.
–Rent a car. Even the big chains close on Sunday. If you do not turn in your car by a certain time on Saturday or Sunday, you get charged for an extra day. Thankfully, we made sure to do this right, since we had to leave on a Sunday and if the rental was closed we would have had to stay another day since there would have been no place to leave our car on Sunday. Some of the rentals take an automatic 750E fee in case you have an accident, and should you have an accident, even if not your fault, you do not get the refund until the insurance pays.
–Cross walk. Striped lines mean pedestrians have right of way, unless there is a stop light. They also mean, this is where pedestrians must cross the street. Oh, yes, watch out for bicycles. They mix in with walking traffic. Little bells mean watch out, I am behind you. Oh, yes, watch out for motorcycles and scooters. They mix in with walking traffic. A loud hum means get out of my way; I am behind you and will run you down.
–Meal courses–Menus come with an appetizer and three courses printed out. You do not have to order from each one, however, some do. Many restaurants have price fixed several course dinners for the day. Being Italy, pasta in its various forms is big on the menu. We often order different things and share. That is acceptable. Service charge is on the bill already, but you can leave an extra tip if the service was outstanding, as it is at our little trattoria by the gate that leads to our apartment. The waiter now waves to me when we go by. WEG

The streets of Florence are not as confusing as those in Venice. No up and down steps on bridges ad nauseam and no abrupt dead ends–still, because streets do not run in straight lines, it is easy to get turned around in Florence. Today, the rains stopped and the sun came out to blue skies and the temperature was fantastic. Kathy and I went strolling about.

Our street Vigna Nuovo is a shopping street. Right down from our apartment entrance are Gucci, Cartier, Chopard, Bulgari and the like. Mont Blanc and Visconti compete with each other and are practically side by side and next door to us and various Italian fashion stores are peppered along the street that leads to a big archway into a major piazza that stands between the Duomo and the Uffizi Gallery. We have walked this street many times, but today we went the other way that leads to a bridge over the Arno River and the Oltrarno District of Florence. Just before the bridge our street joins several other streets. Kathy and I basically made a u-turn onto the first street to intersect with ours. We had not walked this way before. We found ourselves in the antique district. Stores sold vintage clothing, antique furniture and accessories, porcelain and lighting. Kathy was intrigued with an Italian made to order wedding gown and event clothing shop. They displayed the magazine photos of famous people wearing the clothes made there. As we walked, modern Italian design shops appeared. Anyone building new or remodeling would have a fun time getting ideas in these shops. Before we knew it, the Santa Maria Nouvella Square and Church stood before us. We turned to the right and walked a street leading to the Duomo. We could see its massive dome towering over the buildings as we walked. It was a relaxing, enjoyable jaunt that brought us to familiar territory once again. We saw the archway that led to our street and our apartment. WEG

The Standly’s left for Rome to have a whirlwind day of sightseeing, ending in standing in St. Peter’s Square watching for the smoke that would indicate an election or non-election of a new Pope. They would then head home to Tomball. Kathy and I thought we were going to the large Tuesday market held in a park in Florence. It was raining when the Standly’s train pulled out at 7:38 am. It was cold. Kathy and I looked at each other and knew we were not going to the outdoor market. Next Tuesday would be just fine. We headed to the big indoor market by St. Lorenzo Church not far from out apartment. We picked up food items for our day at the apartment–fresh focaccia bread, fresh chicken breast, risotto–when in Italy, eat like the Italians. It is fun wading through all the food stalls and making decisions about what to buy and then figuring out how to get it. Sometimes you take a ticket and sometimes you don’t; sometimes you can touch the produce and sometimes you can’t. We watch natives to figure out the procedure. The chicken is in the case with the head on (so that no one can accuse you of running around like a chicken with it’s head cut off); the rabbit is totally skinned and stretched out as if running; the beef and pork are cut by the butcher to your specification and you can buy portions of large loaves of bread–the baker will cut it for you (most Italian bread has no salt–they say this is so that the bread cannot steal from the flavor of the food with which it is being consumed.

I went out for a walk around the apartment as night fell and found some lost American tourists. I asked if I could help and felt like such a native knowing everything they asked and getting them to the right street. That felt good. Kathy and I ate our Italian home cooking and listened to Italian opera in the background. Tomorrow we walk neighborhood streets to window shop and get exercise. Gucci and similar stores are on our street. An Italian fashion store with an entire window that is a video screen is just across from us. I am sure this marketing instrument is coming to Houston soon. WEG

Basilica de San Miniato al Monte sits on a hill high above and overlooking Florence. The sight from its plaza is glorious. All the great buildings of the city are within one awe-inspiring look. Within that look is more than the sight, it is the knowledge of the grand sweep of history that is within view–centuries of rulership and art ooze from the buildings. We are at the Basilica for the evening vespers of the monks who reside there and to which the public is allowed to witness. They are singing the ancient Gregorian chant in the crypt below the main altar in which the brothers who have died over the years are buried. The tombstones of the deceased monks form the floor upon which the pews sit. Because the Basilica is stone and marble with no heating and the weather outside cool, the interior is dark and cold. The voices singing the liturgy echo throughout the Basilica. All is quiet except the voices, and it is a touching experience. WEG

Beautiful Italy–A Fond Farewell

How do you say in a few sentences what a trip of a lifetime means? This trip exceeded all of our dreams. We have laughed and teased each other all the way through ITALY.

I can easily say that we have learned more about history and the hard working people who came before us with a passion for the beauty of the art that they would only be a small part of completing…beautiful masterpieces that would take hundreds of years to finish and yet , they would see their part to fruition. I thought of how our own lives are much the same…part of a beautiful masterpiece in God’s tapestry.

We have been to the Arno River, the Mediterranean Sea, the Adriatic Sea and even Lake Garda….what a treat to see so much of God’s beauty.

Randy and I both said that this was in the top three vacations of our life….we are so grateful to have had this time to be with the Graumann’s and share in their encore life. Melisa Standly

Turn north of Verona and somehow you enter an Italy you had not imagined. The narrow allies of the hill towns disappear, the historic central cities are not an attraction, art is not the reason for existence, and agricultural pursuits are not evident. What you find are towering snow-covered mountains and beautiful lakes. A chic atmosphere dominates. The eyes of Italy in this part of the world turn north towards Switzerland and Austria, and the architecture and food begin to incorporate northern elements: like pasta with beef sauce rather than tomato sauce, and fat dumplings instead of spaghetti, and steeples rather than towers on churches, and roof designs like chalets rather than villas. Lake Garda is crystal clear and big. We drove one hour on the eastern shore and did not go the length. We stopped at Malcesine to ride the gondola to the top of Mt. Baldo. As we drove the shoreline drive, the mountains began to rise sharply on both sides of the lake, and at Malcesine, the cozy and tony village with pastel-colored buildings and boat harbor and towering castle jutting into the lake, Mt. Baldo reigns supreme. Snow skiers joined us on the gondola ride since the mountain is still snow covered. The Standly’s mused to us that we had been on the ocean shore that morning in Venice and now we were on the mountain top. I mused that we had left one Italy and entered another. WEG