gofarther.me

I had not tasted roasted chestnuts since our stay in Sevilla, Spain, early in our 2013 journey. Today, I found them in Avignon, France. They taste just as they did in Sevilla–soft, warm, nutty, sweet. The vendor served them from a large shallow kettle kept hot by an open flame. Since we were walking towards the Palace of the Popes to get a view in the soothing evening air before darkness set in, I asked the vendor how late he was open: “Seven,” he replied. We arrived back around six, and he said to me with a smile that it was not seven yet and he could not sell me any!

Avignon is a place of wonderful history and classic French architecture. The Palace of the Popes and city fortifications are classic French gothic. The old center blends into a tapestry that is muted in color, yet rich in detail. As the bright pink sky hovered over the ancient city walls and towers, I could imagine that those who lived here centuries ago found it as breathtaking as I. WEG

Avignon, France – The city ramparts

Avignon, France – The Palace of the Popes

Avignon, France – The Place de L’horloge

Avignon, France – Sunset, November 7, 2013

Lausanne, Switzerland, is situated on Lake Geneva looking across to the French Alps. The large lake is a deep blue, and the Alps are snow capped–a majestic sight! The villages that stretch out along the lake around Lausanne are French in character, as this is the French speaking area of Switzerland. The majority language in Switzerland is German with Italian predominating along the Italian borderlands.

Interestingly, palm trees and other such types of vegetation grow in certain parts of this area. Because of the geography, a microclimate allows for tropical vegetation in an area that is surrounded by snow.

Our short day trip took us to Montreux. Along the way, vineyards rose up on terraced hills. The rock-walled terraces had man-made water channels that allowed rain and snow melt to course through them. Today, waterfalls flowed through the terraces as the water rushed to the lake. The grape vine leaves are now gold and red. We passed the vineyards that make Chardonnay. Such a fantastic sight.

Our destination was the Chateau de Chillon. It is one of the most photographed castles in the world. As home base to the powerful House of Savoy, it occupied a prominent place in the history in the Middle Ages. We enjoyed discovering its ramparts and rock foundations, its paint decorated walls and ceilings and its towers and terraces. It is beautiful to behold; yet, powerful. It was home and fortress, and it has withstood the test of time. WEG

Chateaux de Chillon – Switzerland

Chateau de Chillon

Chateau de Chillon

Chateau de Chillon

Wayne & Kathy in Montreux on Lake Geneva, November 2013

First Luzern, then Grindelwald. Central Switzerland is beyond beautiful. We did not have much time in Luzern. Kathy and I had been here before, but the return visit reminded us of the beauty of this city on a powder blue mountain lake. A mix of German and French architecture, the city was aglow on this sunny and pleasant day. I was in shirtsleeves. A market with colorful awnings and local products lined the lakeside below the Old Town. We walked the old wooden Kapellbruecke (Chapel Bridge), constructed in the early 1300s, for which the city is famous, with its interior paintings and gingerbread wooden slates.

Luzern’s renowned Chapel Bridge, Switzerland

Luzern, Switzerland, painted building

Luzern, Switzerland, building

View from the train between Lucerne, Switzerland, and Interlaken Ost

Another view of Switzerland from the train

Tonight, our friends Ken and Paula joined us for a meal in a traditional Swiss restaurant. We dined on fennel soup, roesti (fried grated potato served with sauerkraut and smoked sausage), raclette (fried cheese served with boiled potato, gherkins and pearl onions) and apfel (apple) strudel. It was tasty and very atmospheric, a fitting conclusion to a fine day. WEG

Welcome to Grindelwald, Switzerland!

View of Grindelwald, Switzerland, from the balcony of the Belvedere Hotel

The iconic train journey across Switzerland is the Glacier Express, and today our friends Ken and Paula and Kathy and I were able to ride on it. It is aptly named as it crossed deep gorges and hugged the side of the mountain at high altitudes. Snow-capped peaks stood out against the sky, and mountain waterfalls cascaded down steep cliffs. The autumn colors were at peak density and the golds were particularly striking. What a memorable trip, made all the more so by the beauty of the Matterhorn in Zermatt, where we debarked for several hours.

Have you ever had a day planned when something totally unexpected happened and your day was enriched as a result? That was our day today! The journey was spectacular, but the activities at a cemetery in Zermatt were touching and impressive. Today was All Saints Day, and the city churches had a ceremony remembering the faithfully departed. A robed procession with crucifix and candles walked through the city as church bells pealed, followed by hundreds of people to the beautiful cemetery in the center of the city where each grave had been meticulously cleaned and planted with fresh flowers. Family members gathered by each grave site to light candles as a red and black uniformed band played Christian hymns. It was a heart-warming scene that brought a tear to the eye as old widows knelt down at the grave of a husband, helped by their adult children or grandchildren, or parents stood with heads bowed at the grave of a child. It was a sound and scene that will leave a lasting impression. WEG

View on Glacier Express

The Matterhorn with Ken & Paula, Wayne & Kathy

Zermatt Church Exterior

Zermatt Church Interior

Zermatt Church Ceiling

All Saints’s Day Ceremony in Zermatt, Switzerland – November 1, 2013

Switzerland is the most prosperous country in the world. Neighboring Liechtenstein is much like it. Our tour of the area outside Zurich, known as Heidi Land, took us through beautiful mountainous regions. This area inspired the writing of the book Heidi, which, after the Bible, is the most translated book in the world. We hiked along mountain paths that took us by orchards laden with apples and pears, vineyards now turned gold and red in the autumn air, cattle munching grass and small hay-filled barns. Above us loomed hills covered with pine and cedar trees and above the hills loomed snowcapped peaks. It was as if we had stepped 50 years back in time.

Switzerland road to Heidi Land, October 31, 2013

Swiss Alps

Swiss Alps

On our Switzerland Walk

Heidi Land, Switzerland

The Principality of Liechtenstein is a mix of old world and modern times. The castle of the ruling family is on the hillside above the small capitol city of Vaduz, which is sparkling clean and modern. High in the Alps, Liechtenstein has the highest per capita gross domestic production in the world. Our day was refreshing and peaceful as we traversed rural and village Alpine territory. WEG

Ken and Wayne in Liechtenstein

Castle of Liechtenstein

We spent quite a bit of time today in and around the Notre Dame de Strasbourg, the excellent monument of faith that graces the Old Town. The exterior is much more intricate in stone work detail than most Gothic buildings and is brown/gold in color rather than grey. The airy bell tower is one of the tallest in Christendom. Inside, it is a glorious delight. It is soothing as well as impressive. The front side niches are filled with majestic works of art, including a large crucifixion scene in stone, and an angel column covered with angels, and a massive astronomical clock with wonderful moving parts to mark the hours.

We spent time with our friends, Ken and Paula, lolly-gagging our way around the cathedral square with its shops and restaurants and along the River Il surrounded by half-timbered buildings. How the time flies by when you take a leisurely stroll! WEG

Strasbourg Cathedral

Strasbourg Cathedral interior – The Pillar of Angels, forefront; The Astronomical Clock, behind

Strasbourg Cathedral – Calvary scene

They said: “Offenburg to Titisee.” We rode the train to Offenburg, Germany, and laughed because they made everyone get off the train since it was the end of the line–Off-n-Burg. We were going to Titisee, Germany, to the beauty of the Black Forest. But when we heard the conductor pronounce the town’s name, well yes, it is what it is. So yes, they said, “Offenburg to Titisee.” You simply go with the flow.

Titisee is a charming lakeside village with woodcarving and cuckoo clock shops set amidst the beauty of the Black Forest hills that surround it. We had had a wonderful day, first in Freiburg, which has a wonderful Old Town (Altstadt), then the Black Forest. Then, the unexpected. The train in front of us had run over pedestrians, and the train lines were shut down–five hours later we finally made it to our lodging, which should have been half an hour. We had an unexpected encounter on our train journey with a Russian translator in Strasbourg for the European Parliament meeting. He was Mikhail Gorbachev’s translator and had made 35 trips to the U.S. He was also a personal friend of former NBC newsman, Tom Brokaw. What an enjoyable and delightful conversation to end our day of unexpected happenings! WEG

Cathedral door in Freiburg, Germany

St. Martin’s Church facade in Freiburg, Germany

Street scene in Freiburg, Germany

Lake village of Titisee, Germany

Lake in Titisee, Germany

Titisee, Germany

Today was one of those days on our year-long journey that felt like vacation. I know that sounds strange. Kathy and I spent the day simply strolling the city of Strasbourg, France. It is a delightful, unhurried place. La Petite France section of the city is wonderful with its half-timbered buildings and lovely squares. The Il (capital i, small l) River meanders through the city and creates a pretty atmosphere where currents run over small waterfalls along the way. We walked and we sat and just soaked in the views. We found one of the best bakeries to which I have been along the way and shared a tasty blueberry tart. We found a gingerbread bakery which had huge loaves of gingerbread with different ingredients on display. The owner brought a two-handled sharp cutting instrument and allowed me to mark where I wanted her to cut me a piece on the chocolate and hazelnut gingerbread loaf. She then cut straight down. The bread was so thick that the cut piece held together. We noticed the bees all around, attracted by the sweet ingredients. I asked at a butcher shop about “potted meat” that I had tasted 37 years ago in rural France. He immediately knew what I had tasted and pointed it out to me on his shelf. I’ll go back to get some if we decide to have a picnic. Beautiful churches and bridges were part of the ambiance as we strolled. The fanciful cathedral for which the city is known is an intricate maze of cut stone that is stunning and airy. It seems to float on the air. Late in the afternoon, our friends Ken and Paula arrived at the train station. We spent a short time visiting before heading for a good night of rest. It was a pleasant, stress-free day in an unhurried place. WEG

Beautiful Strasbourg, France, on the River Il

Strasbourg, France, Cathedral Exterior

Strasbourg, France, Cathedral Door Detail

Strasbourg, France, Cathedral Interior

Strasbourg, France, Cathedral Pulpit

Strasbourg, France, Cathedral Stained Glass Windows

Strasbourg, France, Street Scene in La Petite France

Sunset on Strasbourg’s River Il

No, this isn’t a “Freddy vs. Jason” or “Alien vs. Predator” kind of blog post. It is just a comparative venture of European transportation options between Praha (Prague) in the Czech Republic and Strasbourg, France.

Cost: Since Europe has many low cost carriers and the distance traveled today is long, using Vueling or Ryan Air or Easy Jet would be inexpensive compared to train travel. Kathy and I have flown one way in Europe for less than $50 (for both of us!). Here are the caveats: 1. to get a cheap airfare, you must get your ticket at least two months in advance; 2. not all cities are served by the low cost carriers, although most are; 3. not all airports are the major ones in the city, although many are. Using one of the Eurail passes, sold only over the internet in the U.S., costs between $55 and $75 per person per day of travel used. The cost depends on the type of pass purchased– the number of travel days purchased, travel in one country only or multiple countries, age and 1st or 2nd class. Point to point tickets can be cheaper than a Eurail Pass day ticket, depending on the length of the trip. On this trip, a point to point ticket for two would have been in excess of $400. One advantage of a Eurail Pass is that a travel day is for the full day, and as many trips as you want to take on that day. The Pass is also good for many river and lake cruises and bus systems. Bottom line, on this trip, a train is more expensive than a plane. ADVANTAGE: PLANE.

Time: On this particular long distance trip, the plane, counting time at the airport and air time, would be about six hours. The train trip would be about 13 hours. ADVANTAGE: PLANE.

Comfort: Hands down, train. Most trains’ 2nd class are as comfortable as an airplane’s 1st class, and train 1st class is better still. Regardless of class, train seats are wide, adjustable, comfortable, and there is mega leg room. Restrooms are plentiful, food cars are handy and comfortable. There is room to stretch and walk. You don’t have to crawl over anyone to get out or scrunch up in an aisle to let someone pass or keep your seatbelt fastened! The big windows can be darkened if it is too sunny, first class rooms have individual air control, and nothing can beat seeing the countryside roll by. You bring the luggage you desire. Low cost air carriers are crowded and baggage limits are strictly enforced. By the way, train terminals, overall, are nicer than airport terminals. Most of the larger ones have real malls attached. ADVANTAGE: TRAIN.

For a number of reasons, Kathy and I took the train today from Prague to Strasbourg. We used our Eurail Global Pass. We had our seating area–seats with a table between–all to ourself. No worries and no problems, alternately watching or snoozing as the country side with its autumn gold trees and rivers, lakes, hills and cities passed by. One special treat was to see the tallest church steeple/tower in the world at 530 feet, the Lutheran Munster (Cathedral) in Ulm, Germany, as the train passed. Our only interruptions were the conductor checking tickets as we entered each new country and the waiters coming by our seat to see if they could bring us food or drink. It was a relaxing day. WEG

Lutheran Munster, or Cathedral, in Ulm, Germany

.

Oh, yes, I’ve found a new pastry to love. Now you need to know, that when I get pastry, my wife wants ice cream/gelato. This new pastry is called Trdelnik, and in Czech, if you replace the “t” with a “p” it is “poop,” something they find funny at tourist’s expense. Yes, the clerk at the hotel instructed me to ask for it the wrong way.

All that aside, you cannot miss the Trdelnik in shops and kiosks. It is a circular tube of soft-on-the-inside and crisp-on-the-outside pastry covered in sugar and cinnamon and filled with chocolate or cream or preserves or nothing. When you eat it, you can unroll portions of the coil of pastry, which is the easiest way. It is made over charcoal, and the dough is wrapped around a rolling pin-like iron tube that is rotated over the coal until the pastry is cooked. It is finished off by caramelizing the outside which is sprinkled with sugar over the coal fire, then rolled in cinnamon, sugar, and crushed nuts. More than tasty, I tell you! I should know, I have taste-tested many portions! As for Kathy’s ice cream, well, poor girl, she will just have to wait for Blue Bell when we get home, because when I see a Trdelnik stand, I’m not going any farther.

Prague is simply beautiful. The streets are bustling and every view is filled with new sights of grandeur. And, you can find at least one Trdelnik stand on every street. WEG

Wenceslas Square, Prague, Czech Republic

Astronomical Clock in Old Town, Prague, Czech Republic

Beautiful Prague

Chandelier in the Baroque St. Nicholas Church, Prague, Czech Republic

The Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn