Machu Picchu
This is the view the Incas had of the mountains from one side of Machu Picchu.
One mountain peak stacked upon another and another and another; deep valleys running in several directions with more mountain peaks, like ducks in a row; tropical foliage with bromeliads growing in the trees and colorful flowers, even orchids, adding color to the green landscape and then steep sheer cliffs adding drama. This was our amazing ride up from Machu Picchu Town to the World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World, the wonder city of the Incas, Machu Picchu.
We arose early from our mountain retreat and took the dome car PeruRail, itself known as one of the best train rides in the world, to Machu Picchu Town at the base of the mountains leading up to the famed ancient city. The sights were wonderful. First, we were in high country farm land, and all of the sudden, in the tropics along the river that is a tributary to the Amazon, which originates in Peru. Snow-capped mountain peaks could be seen here and there. We pulled into the handsome train station in Machu Picchu Town and walked across bridges above rushing streams to the bus terminal, with buses leaving every five minutes to take visitors up the mountains to the famed archeological site. What a ride! The bus drivers make those hairpin curves quickly.
And then, there it was, the mountain city of Machu Picchu. Only the leader of the ancient peoples was known as the Inca, the Son of the Sun, his wife, the Daughter of the Moon. The Temple of the Sun was clad in gold and the Temple of the Moon in silver. While the imperial city was in Cusco, the Incas loved Machu Picchu, and it was a royal retreat. I can see why–the scenery is stunning, overwhelming, impressive, captivating, astounding! It was a citadel, surrounded by imposing peaks, some snow-covered with steep cliffs. It was isolated, in fact, so much so that the Spanish conquistadors did not find it to destroy it as they did every other Inca city. Canals were built from the glaciers of nearby mountains to bring fresh water into the city for hygiene, irrigation and drinking purposes. Here in Machu Picchu, the astronomers developed the calendar that was precise. By watching the stars, through water plates that reflected the stars on the surface like a mirror, strategically located throughout the city, they mapped and chronicled the movement of the stars and created an accurate knowledge of the heavens, and their sun dials were marvels of time keeping.
Machu Picchu is a wondrous city. Its buildings climb up and down the hills. There was a place for the common people, with a farming area, with fabulous terraces built down the mountain sides for agricultural purposes. What human might it must have taken to carry the stones and build the walls on such steep inclines. And, there was a place for the Inca and the elite. Here the temples were built and the royal homes. There were gates to the city and garrisons for soldiers. It is a large archeological site. We walked up and down steps, marveling at the sites and listening to the history and explanations of the site given to us by our guide. You had to be careful in walking. It was so marvelous that you could easily forget your bearings. While we walked, in fact, two tourists had major accidents–one backing up too far to take a picture and falling over the ledge for a five foot drop, and another gazing in wonderment, not noticing the steps and breaking her leg in the fall. I held onto the rock walls to stabilize my path! What can I say about Machu Picchu but that it is a marvel of industry and might and ingenuity and science. It is breath taking!
Our evening is spent in a very nice hotel in Machu Picchu Town. We were greeted after our rather grueling day with iced tea and hors d’oeuvres. Hors d’oeuvres were also delivered to our room. The mountain stream passes by and the mountains rise up before us. My mind is and will be occupied at how these people built such a magnificent place for us to marvel over today. WEG
Glory of the Andes
The Peruvian Highlands
The sight was glorious! Everywhere we looked, we saw snow covered mountain peaks. We were at 12,000 feet up in the Andes, but the snow covered peaks were 18-20,000 feet in height. Yes, it was a glorious sight! We were in the high meadows of the Incas most of the day. Corn, potatoes, wheat, barley and various beans are grown at these heights which are remote from the world. We traveled on narrow one lane unpaved roads that switchbacked even in the more level areas. There were times that our small tour bus (large buses are not allowed as the roads cannot accommodate them) was on the very edge of the lane with up to 1,000 feet drops into chasms cut into the mountain. Kathy spent a lot of time praying, while I feigned that the tire was part way over the edge.
We stopped at the salt mine in the Andes. It is unique in that it is not an underground mine, but a glorious invention of the pre-Inca natives in the area. There is a salty spring that flows near the mine, and the natives dug shallow pools and lined them with hardened clay and allowed the spring to fill the pools and then let the sun evaporate the water and the dry salt remained. Today, the same techniques are utilized that were in play 3,000 years ago, but on a larger scale. Over 150 tons of salt are exported each year from this mine.
Ollantaytambo Incan Ruins, Peru
We next stopped at another pre-Inca/Inca settlement that is an important archeological site. Not as well known as Manchu Picchu, Ollantaytambo is the oldest continually inhabited pre-Inca/Inca community in existence. Ollantaytambo was at the crossroads where two valleys intersected, and thus, it was a trading center as well as a strategic military site. The ancient stones still remain and the site is an adventure that requires some serious climbing.
Our big destination for the day was a remote mountain village where we were greeted by people of the village in native dress. They played and sang for us and then led us into the village where we had a traditional meal in a private home. It was four courses–appetizer of beans and corn with a spicy pepper sauce; potato corn soup; meat balls with a native sauce, and a dried potato dessert. We then were led into the farm lands where we witnessed the spiritual connection of the Incas with the land and observed a demonstration of mountain farming. There are no mechanical tractors or tools here (cattle with wooden plows) and no pesticides of any kind. At the end of our time in the village, the native people grabbed us by the hand and led us in a native dance. It was a heart-warming experience!
Back at our mountain lodge, the staff brought us out onto the green where they prepared our Pachamanca meal before us, a traditional Peruvian way of cooking with hot stones using the land as an oven. In a large hole, they began to place hot stones that had been washed with salt and heated for five hours. On the first layer of stones, the hotel guests placed both white and sweet potatoes, then more stones were placed on top and beef, pork, lamb, and chicken were laced with hot stones. On top of this was placed a soaked reed mat, and on top of that mountain grass, followed by a wet sheet, and on top of that dirt. One hour later we were served an elegant meal on the terrace with a wood burning fireplace and a person in native dress playing native music on a harp. What a treat!
Now it is off to bed because tomorrow, God willing, we go to one of the seven wonders of the modern world–Machu Picchu. WEG
Pisco Sour is All You Need to Know
We entered the Sacred Valley of the Inca’s today. The ancient Inca’s were astronomers and they saw that the river in the valley seemed to go toward the Milky Way. They believed it was from the heavens; and, therefore, sacred. The valley is mystical and magical. It varies from only 1/4 mile wide to 1 mile wide, goes forever and has wonderful mountains on each side with the sacred river running in the middle. It is rugged territory and the Incas built their cities on the mountains so that the valley below could be kept for farming. Because the need for food was great, the Incas developed a system of terrace farming on the steep mountain sides that is still not only visible today, but in use as well. Kathy and I simply soaked in the wonderful scenery.
Our plane landed in Cusco, the ancient capital of the Incas, but we immediately boarded a bus for a six hour journey to our hotel into the Sacred Valley. Along the way we stopped at an Alpaca farm to get up close and personal with alpacas, llamas and vicugnas (the fiber from which is considered the rarest and most expensive on earth). Further along, we stopped in Pisac Village, a market village, where the finest Peruvian folk arts are practiced and sold. Colorful and active, Kathy shopped until she dropped or ran out of money–you choose. I found a woman cooking Inca corn (hominy) on the cob–white and tasty served with a mountain cheese and in its corn husk. I couldn’t resist! Finally, we stopped at a ceramic studio where the ancient Incan art form is kept alive. It was a most appealing setting and we watched native craftsmen and women practicing their craft.
We arrived at our outstanding mountain country lodge hotel. It is in the hills all to itself, and it is the image of what I would have expected a South American mountain lodge to look like. Tiered up the mountain side, with manicured green lawns and beautiful flowers and an open fire place in the lobby, the staff stands at attention in strategic places along the way. Our room is white washed, plaster and stone walls and timbered ceiling–white washed. It is rustic and comfortable and roomy and modern–a 65″ TV built into the wall. It is cool in the Sacred Valley. We are no longer on the equator, but have moved closer toward the South Pole. We will sleep well tonight after our long and wonderful day. WEG
P.S.–I forgot about the Peruvian national drink, the Pisco Sour. It is Pisco brandy, key lime juice and ice blended with egg white foam (with bitters) on top. You can add a simple syrup to sweeten it, if desired. It is delicious, but one will do ya!
Wayne enjoys a Pisco Sour, Peru’s national drink, with evening meal in the Sacred Valley of the Inca’s, June 2017
Lima is No Bean
Lima, Peru–where do you start? Historic, yet modern. Huge, yet intimate. Rich, yet poor.
Our first impression was that Lima was modern. Huge electronic billboards greeted us both in the airport and on the roads from the airport in the dark of the night. In the morning, the impression continued in our Hilton Hotel in Miraflores, an upscale suburb on the Pacific. We had time to stroll the area around the hotel and along the Pacific. We ate an early lunch looking out on the Pacific on a balcony cantilevered over the cliffs. Cool! Kathy and I agreed that the area reminded us of the Houston Uptown/Galleria area, with one big exception–there is an ocean! Indeed, the ocean side mall is called, “The Galleria.”
In the afternoon, we toured Old Colonial Lima. It was grand! Beautiful parks surrounded by majestic colonial era buildings/palaces/churches were abundant. We spent time in the UNESCO World Heritage Site San Francisco monastery and catacombs. Beautiful, with imported Spanish tiles and fine handcrafted wood features and frescoes on the walls, it has open courtyards and magnificent rooms and chapels. At one time 400 priests lived here, and it is still a working monastery today. The catacombs were discovered in the mid-20th century. The priests cleaned the bones and rearranged them with similar bones put together in rooms. What a sight!
Our guide was an 18th generation descendant of one of the thirteen Spanish explorers who came with Francisco Pizarro in the early 1500s. That was a treat. She showed us her ancestor’s tomb in the cathedral along with the mausoleum of Pizarro. The mosaic tiles are of 18 carat gold. What caught our attention was the beautiful woodwork in the altars. Then, we were told that they were gold, and the gold was painted over and then scratched away in the crevices to give it a unique look. Awesome.
We strolled the pedestrian streets and saw one beautiful building after another. We toured the oldest colonial mansion in Lima–started in 1535 and still inhabited by the same Aliaga family for 18 generations. It is a magnificent house and, if by chance a girl was the oldest child and next in line to own the home and family fortune, her husband would have to change his name to the family name or the inheritance would be lost. Lima is the capital of Peru and has a population of over ten million. While we saw the magnificent parts of the city, there are shanty town neighborhoods where we were told not to venture. Peru, while now stable, was quite unstable around 25 years ago.
With an ancient Inca culture and the Spanish new world exploration in 1535, Lima has a rich and long and proud history. WEG
Above the Clouds
Chimborazo Volcano, Ecuador
As we approached Quito, I noticed that the plane was not in a steep descent, but more of a glide slowly downward. That was because as the plane descended, the ground below ascended. In fact, as we approached the Quito aeropuerto, the ground seemed far below and then, immediately, the plane was making a smooth as glass landing. The airport is on a high hill.
Thankfully, the Quito airport is brand new and sleek and modern. That is good since we have a six hour layover before heading to Lima, Peru. I told Kathy I wanted a hamburger for lunch and the airport has a Johnnie Rockets. Cheeseburger-$18; fries-$7; shake-$8. Nope! Looked around and found an Ecuadorian steakhouse. Cheeseburger-$7 and that includes fries and a salad; carafe of Sangria-$6. Lets see, $33 or $13. Easy choice and the steakhouse has free wifi and a wonderful fresh air balcony overlooking the Andes to boot. This won’t be as difficult a layover as I imagined. WEG
P. S. I did let Kathy have some of the sangria–along with her vegetarian plate. After all, it is a long layover.
Pumapunku and Todos Santos
Cuenca was the northern capital of the Inca Empire in the 1400s and was known as Tumebamba. Impressive buildings were constructed with 1,500 pound stones being brought from Cuzco in Peru almost 1,000 miles away. Brought by hand labor (no draft animals or wheeled conveyance in the Empire) through the Andes, it was an arduous task. The important Temple of the Sun was covered in gold and silver with turquoise and emeralds. Today, all that is left is the outer parts of the old capital, Pumapunku and Todos Santos. An Incan civil war destroyed much of the city and when the Spanish arrived, they used the impressive stones for building the current Cuenca and thus, most of the imperial city lies underneath the modern city.
Kathy and I spent a good part of the day exploring what remains of the ruins of the imperial city and the magnificent gardens surrounding it on the River Tomebamba. We had a magnificent time. It is sobering to realize the great empire that once existed and the grand history that shaped our American experience. The remains are extensive and so the mind imagines how large and grand the imperial capital must have been!
Kathy loves gardens and so this was a special day for her, since the gardens by the ruins were beautiful. An aviary in the gardens contained Ecuadorian birds: parrots, parakeets (big ones–not our little birds), eagles, etc. A tranquil lake was surrounded by lush greenery and flowering trees. The ruins and the gardens intermingled, and we often stopped to sit and contemplate.
Once we had walked ourselves silly, we realized we had a long walk back to our hotel and I told Kathy, “Just remember, it is good for us!” We could have hailed a taxi, but then we would not have been able to walk along the rushing river in the cool afternoon/early evening. So we walked and stopped along the way for a respite at a riverside cafe for a beer for me and a mojito for Kathy. Refreshing. That gave us the umpf we needed to make the rest of the way home to our wonderful Cuenca Suites, where the owners had washed and dried our clothes while we were away for the day. Couldn’t ask for more! WEG
Up, Up and Away
Cajas National Park, Cuenca, Ecuador
Did it! Climbed over 600 feet almost straight up to reach an altitude of 14,200+ feet above sea level. Still, the Andean peaks were another 1,000 feet higher in Cajas National Park, just outside Cuenca, Ecuador. The park contains over 1,000 lakes/lagoons, and I could see them in every direction from my vantage point. As our tour bus drove into the park, we were astounded by the sights—deep valleys cut between towering peaks, rivers flowing and waterfalls feeding the flow, pine forests and then grey green cliffs and mountain sides and, all along the way, small lakes to large lagoons.
Kathy and I felt guilty–our beautiful tour bus belonged to us! No other tourists had booked and so we had the bus, chauffeur and guide to ourselves. It turned out to be a private tour for the day, and it only cost $70 for the two of us. The majestic sights soon drove the guilt away! Our first stop was to the holiest place in Ecuador, Sanctuario de la Virgen del Cajas, an outdoor pilgrimage site where the Virgin Mary was said to have appeared to an indigenous woman. The setting was amazing, a valley running one direction and high peaks the other. A tall crucifix stood to one side with a mountain chapel with straw roof, and across from the chapel stood the rock upon which the apparition of the Virgin was said to have occurred. Our time here was both tranquil and uplifting.
We stopped at lagoons, and at the the “three crosses,” a short climb to a vantage point with three crosses where pilgrims place rocks in honor of those people who have died in the mountains. Of course, we also took “the climb” to the vantage point. Honestly, I was huffing and puffing at these high altitudes, but I was determined to see the sights. As the tour ended, we stopped at a restaurant in the lower park and had a wonderful traditional mountain meal of trout, lima beans, rice and marinated salad. We also got a glass of steaming hot agua de tipo, an indigenous drink made of medicinal mountain plants and drank to give energy for these 13,000-15,500 foot heights…all for the cost of $9 for the two of us.
Once we arrived back at the hotel, we were ready to put our feet up for awhile. We also thanked God for His beautiful creation and for blessing us with the opportunity to experience it! WEG
Modern Art
Just steps from our hotel is the Museum of Modern Art in Cuenca, and today was a cultural day. The museum explores the modern response to Spanish colonialism and also how the modern age is affecting the traditional culture. Since I enjoy artistic expression, it was an enjoyable experience. I especially appreciated the sculpture garden, with its serene setting in a courtyard amidst flowering plants and trees. I sat for awhile and simply enjoyed the view and soaked in the cool air.
This was also a day to relax (indeed, we slept until 11am) and tend to tourist necessities, like get clothes cleaned and buy needed items. Our hotel owners allowed us to wash our clothes in their automatic washing machine. Rather than drying them in the electric dryer, they allowed us to hang out our clothing to dry in the sunny back courtyard on a drying rack they had prepared for us. We are refreshed and ready for the next adventure. WEG
Painting of indigenous man in Museum of Modern Art, Cuenca, Ecuador
Relaxed
Kathy and I arose in the morning rearing to tackle old Cuenca. I had mapped out a route that would take us on an exploratory journey for the day. It was a good decision! The weather today was as near perfect as perfect can be. It was mostly clear and sunny, and somehow the sky here is bluer than we have ever seen. It probably has to do with the altitude and close proximity to the equator. Still, the air is cool and, while you can sunburn easily, I went with a short sleeve shirt all day and was just right.
As we walked, we saw that the city is on the move. Rail tracks are being laid for trolleys/light rail and, for lack of a better word, “gentrification” is happening everywhere. Old colonial buildings are being restored and renewed and there is definitely an air of excitement. The city is already beautiful, but when the restoration projects are completed, the city will have an upscale feel.
We walked into a large Mercado and spent time perusing the beautifully displayed food items. How, how, how you wish you had these “fresh from the garden” selections at home. It is not just the huge variety, but the endless choices. Take the largest grocery store produce and meat sections you know, quadruple the number of varieties available and double the entire grocery store size and fill it with those vegables/fruits/meats and you have an idea of a neighborhood market. All straight from the farm/garden/ocean/river to you. Not frozen, homogenized, chemical laden–but fresh! We bought some cheese and chocolate to munch on as we walked. When we tried the chocolate, my mouth puckered–this was 100% dark chocolate. Thankfully, we have some fresh honey and milk in our suite kitchen and we will have some great hot chocolate tonight.
We walked by the “new” and immense cathredral with its three blue mosaic domes. It is quite beautiful with a golden altar. There are spotless restrooms nearby, but you pay about 30 cents to use them. For the money, you also get a small amout of toilet paper to take in with you. I buy extra–I am not sure how it would be possible to make it with the nine one-ply paper sections you are handed. When finished, you wash your hands and as you walk out, the attendant hands you two paper towels to dry your hands.
We ambled down to the Rio (Tomebamba River) that cuts through the heart of the city. It has a magnificent smooth cobblestone walkway along the rushing waters. We walked quite a long way, stopping at a small pub with outdoor seating to share a beer. Refreshing!
We had to climb our way from the river up to the city on a long stairway. With the high altitude, we didn’t dart up. The Andes rose up in the distance and the flowers were blooming, the air was cool and fresh, the city was amazing and the river was relaxing. It was a wonderful day! WEG
Way Cool
I bask in the first cool breezes of fall at home in Texas. You know how it feels when that cool north air hits your face and you breathe in the fresh air. Still, the sun is shining and you get those warm rays at the same time. That was Cuenca, Ecuador, today. At 8200 feet above sea level, the city of 350,000 was clean, fresh and cool on this day when the sun and clouds mixed in the sky.
After arriving in the evening the day before, we slept in at our suite at a remodeled colonial home in the Centre Historico of this charming city. Our accommodations are modern and roomy. The interior courtyard has a fountain and the walls have wonderful art displays and the original wood railings on the floors above the courtyard remain. Cuenca is alternately known as the best preserved “colonial city” in South America and the most European city in Ecuador. The heritage of 16th and 17th century Spanish architecture is everywhere. We were impressed as we walked the cobbled streets to see beautiful plazas with usually white washed churches and colonial buildings. Passage ways through buildings open up into interior courtyards filled with flowers and fountains and shops, restaurants, and small hotels. It is quite inviting.
As we walked, we crossed a street and all of the sudden above us loomed the city’s cathedral with its blue domes. It was an impressive sight and, frankly, overwhelming. We had not expected this imposing or massive building! All around the cathedral, teeming life. Plazas with vendors and gardens and large colonial buildings, restaurants and hotels stretched out in every direction. As we walked in the main plaza, Kathy noted what looked to be an American couple sitting on a park bench beneath trees blooming with beautiful purple flowers. She struck up a conversation with Doug and Barbara that lasted well over an hour. They regaled us with stories of this beautiful city they now call home. Four through ten thousand U.S. expatriates call Cuenca home at any one time during the year. It is easy to see why: impressive weather, natural beauty all around, marvelous colonial city, culture and art and inexpensive. We found out that if you are a senior, health care is quite attainable and quite inexpensive; entrances to all cultural events from opera to sports is free; if there is a line anywhere, you are moved to the front, as seniors are valued, and transportation originating in the country from bus to air is half price automatically, and the list goes on.
I am heading out the door. We had a great lunch today in a beautiful restaurant. Kathy chose the featured entree’–a delicious potato cheese soup and a main of beef and rice and fried plantain–all for $5. I chose the chicken stuffed with shrimp in a palmodoro sauce. So, we are not particularly hungry tonight, having stopped in a pastry shop and eaten sweets around 5pm. I saw an elderly woman last night upon our arrival with a movable charcoal bar-b-que on the street corner with kabobs of chicken and pork situated across from the plaza where our suite hotel is located . Sounds just right to me! WEG
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