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The Honeymoon is Over
After 53 years of a charmed life with Kathy, the honeymoon is over! And over something so trivial. She called me an “oaf!” Never called me anything ever in the past, except, my love or sweetheart. I have to tell you, I was in shock! More about this down below.
We had three remaining port calls before our cruise was to end in Le Havre, France, on September 27. We spent a wonderful day in Amsterdam. Having been numerous times we decided to simply walk around the city and enjoy its ambiance, especially since it was a pleasant day. We purchased a day tram ticket for the longer jaunts and had no problem using it, especially combined with the iPhone map app. that shows transit stops and tram numbers to take to your destination — so simple. We accidentally found a bar/restaurant that we had enjoyed with friends in the past and paused there for a soup lunch. Flowers were still in bloom in planters, and the canals were charming as always. We did walk through a neighborhood in the De Pijp section of the city. Narrow tree-lined streets and quaint, eclectic shops along the way, one with antique Tiffany lamps beckoned. As we walked, I noticed a brass plaque insert on the pavement in front of a house. Upon inspection, it was indeed a reminder that this had been the home of a Jew murdered in the holocaust–sobering and with the personal admonition to “Never Forget.” The Albert Kruptmart street market was in full swing, and we meandered amongst the stalls, alas, not stopping at the freshly-made stroopwaffel stalls. On the way back to the ship, we observed the beautiful Roman Catholic Basilica was open. We took a few contemplative minutes inside its warm-colored interior. It was a most enjoyable day!
Our port call to the Port of London in Tilbury, England, was something else! We wanted to spend most of our port days relaxing in beautiful settings and we only took one off-ship tour to see the Schwerin Castle in Germany. We had wonderful experiences all along the way…except in Tilbury! There is no there, there! Industrial, the tiny town had nothing of interest to us. Most folks had taken tours to London and missed all the e.x.c.i.t.e.m.e.n.t of Tilbury. We wanted a relaxing walk and that was not to be. Our path to town was strewn with trash, narrow, and for a good part of the way, along a major highway with semis rushing past about eight feet away. We felt the constant swoosh of air. When we finally reached the town, we couldn’t help but laugh at the nothingness of it all. At least we had clocked in over two miles of walking. Once back on board the empty ship, we took advantage of the hot tub! Our evening show in the theatre was entertaining–a ship’s finale to earth’s elements in dance, song and magic. Performers were above us on ropes, in the aisles, and on stage during the rousing numbers.
As for the honeymoon being over… In the early morning, we headed for breakfast at the breakfast buffet; usually, I find a place to sit while Kathy gets her breakfast. This time she was in front of me and selected a seat on the “wrong” side–wrong, because it looked over the docks and did not provide a view of the city of Amsterdam. I would have picked the city side automatically. This put me in a dour mood. Thus, I became an “oaf.”
THIS IS KATHY–I DID NOT CALL WAYNE AN “OAF!” WHEN HE APOLOGETICALLY SAID HE WAS ACTING LIKE AN OAF, I SIMPLY SMILED AND SLIGHTLY NODDED MY HEAD.
As I told her, agreeing with my statement that I was behaving like an oaf was the same thing as calling me an oaf. She simply smiled and slightly nodded her head. I understand this is trivial; irrational; however, I was thinking: if I died soon or first, Kathy would not know the things I do automatically, like picking the best seats, etc. …things I do automatically because I want the best for her. I became afraid and was reacting out of that fear because I theorized she would settle for second best when I die. I wouldn’t want that for her. (I realize that if she remarries after I die she would be settling for second best–but that would not be her fault.) When you have cancer, you think about these things!
Today, our last full day on board the Norwegian Dawn was spent in Bruges, Belgium. We love this old medieval city that time forgot and thus was left in glorious charm and beauty. We walked amongst the historic architecture and felt “good.” We stopped in a waffle restaurant and enjoyed the best waffle I have ever eaten. Light, yet solid, the waffle was topped with luscious warm Dutch chocolate and bananas. It was accompanied with whipped cream, eggnog sauce and vanilla ice cream. Decadent and delicious! We thought this was a wonderful last day for our cruise. Tonight we eat in a specialty French Bistro onboard and pack for disembarkation tomorrow. That is it for now from your friendly Oaf!
The Unexpected Oslo
Oslo was not at all what I expected. I thought it would be like many European cities with a defined “old town” with cobblestone streets and historic buildings. Not at all! We were treated to a casual, yet striking, modernity with water, water, everywhere, and flowers. Oslo is built along a fjiord and settles into the landscape with graceful style on Norway’s eastern shores. It is built with walking in mind and wonderful trails with interesting pedestrian bridges abound.
There is an older part of the city; however, it does not appear old in the sense of Middle Ages old. There are belle epoch and clean Nordic style structures situated along wide streets with flower plantings at close intervals along the way. Fountains and statuary appear close to flower-surrounded “knobby” trees. A wide boulevard rises through a large park leading to the Royal Palace sitting at the top of the hill creating a commanding presence. We walked the distance, about a mile, from the Royal Palace to the Palace Cathedral of the Church of Norway-Lutheran. Here the Royal Family worships and are married, baptized and buried. With painted ceilings and Royal box seats, it is beautiful.
We had bought tickets on a “hop on hop off” bus, but spent so much time along the waterfront and in the central city that we were mostly “hop off.” Along the water front with its laid back and decidedly modern atmosphere, we spent time along the marble-clad State Opera with its sleek and clean lines. We also went to the Edward Munch museum–unmistakeable with its tilted roof. I never thought I’d ever personally see Munch’s famous painting, “The Scream,” but here Kathy and I were, standing before it. He painted the picture because one day, while walking, he thought he heard a piercing scream from nature; this painting was the result. I wanted a selfie with a life-imitating art picture, but after three failed attempts, I gave up. Just too many people. We learned much about Munch–his loneliness and despair that comes through in his work.
We could easily have spent several days in Oslo, but only had this cruise port day. We left with a very favorable impression of this capital city of Norway.
A Fairy-Tale Castle and a Reunion
Who knew that one of the most beautiful castles anywhere rises from a lake island in far north Germany? The Dukes of Mecklenburg over centuries constructed what became one of the most important architectural accomplishments in the Romantic style. Located in the city of Schwerin, the castle has over 900 rooms and is topped with a black and gold dome. Imposing indeed! The gardens surrounding the castle were in bloom in yellow and purple and every angle of viewing as one circled the castle giving differing glimpses of the many pinnacles that arose from the structure. Interestingly, the castle houses the first Lutheran Church edifice constructed after the Reformation. A devastating fire in the castle did much damage, but reconstruction has restored the building, although today, the Great Hall has been refurbished to house the Mecklenburg-West Pomerania State Assembly, and one wing is now devoted to state government offices. The wood decorative flooring and ceiling work are outstanding features of the castle as are the beautifully decorated Ducal Apartments.
We ambled into the beautiful city of Schwerin which was close by. Fresh and “clean as a whistle,” the cobblestoned streets lead past soft pastel and white renaissance and romantic style buildings. We found a German pastry shop filled with tempting treats. Our hearts leapt when we saw poppyseed pie. We both love and enjoy baking poppyseed desserts; this one did not disappoint. On the way back to the ship, our tour director informed us that Mecklenburg-West Pomerania produces more energy from solar and wind than it can use. Energy export and an efficient power grid are issues not yet solved. Along the way, for about three miles, we saw multiple thousands of solar panels neatly tucked into hillsides and valleys as 150 wind turbines arose from the hilltops in this one energy installation.
Yesterday, September 20, we docked in Kiel, Germany, a port city near Hamburg. We were excited to meet up with friends, Chris and Lula Tiews, whom we had not seen in fifteen years. Chris is a pastor/missionary/professor who is both brilliant and passionate about his ministry. Fluent in multiple languages, most recently Farsi, the language of Iran, Chris has a significant ministry to the Iranian immigrants in Germany. He spoke excitedly of the multiple thousands of conversions to Christianity in this population. Our day progressed too quickly! We caught up on family and friends, current events, hopes and dreams; it seemed like we had never been apart all these years. For those you from Tomball, Chris was very instrumental in developing the sister city relationship with Telgte, Germany, that recently celebrated its 25th anniversary. We enjoyed our long lunch of German food. Happily, I got my favorite German meal of crisped pork knuckle with bread dumplings and red cabbage. On our way back to the ship, we stopped to view the Lutheran Cathedral which had beautiful artistry, but its huge crucifix hanging before the masterfully wood-carved altar typtich caught my eye–stunning and deeply moving! Wonderfully, an organist was playing the pipe organ as we walked reflectively in this spiritual space. A sign outside the cathedral read, “This is the place to come back home!” Indeed, may it be so!
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Amber Dice
We boarded the Norwegian Dawn on September 15 in Stockholm for our Baltic Cruise. I really like the freestyle dining on Norwegian with no set meal times and with numerous restaurant choices.The seas have been calm thus far and the entertainment quite good, and we are having a fun time.
Our first port was in Tallinn, Estonia. We didn’t book a tour as my research had shown that the old city was compact and in an upper town and lower town configuration. As soon as we departed the port terminal, I hailed a cab and asked for Kathy and me to be taken to the upper town–easier to walk down than up. We toured the Russian Orthodox Cathedral and the Lutheran Cathedral in the upper town. Both beautiful. A communion service was in progress in the Russian Orthodox Cathedral; we watched the beautiful service with ancient chanting for a few minutes. The cathedral has no pews; parishioners stand for the service. The Lutheran cathedral had ancient pews that showed much use over the centuries and were enclosed with half doors on the ends. A historical note–The three Baltic States were occupied by Russia after World War II. Russia began a campaign to ‘Russify’ the countries. One of the ways the Soviet Union employed was to move Russian citizens into the countries to provide a strong Russian presence. That is why one can find large well-maintained Russian Orthodox Churches in Estonia and Latvia (mainly Lutheran) and Lithuania (mainly Roman Catholic). The Soviet Union disintegrated before the project of Russification could be completed. The three Baltic nations have an aversion to Russian politics to this day.
Tallinn still has a very old world vibe and architecture. Spires from churches are abundant. Old fashioned rock cobblestone is the street pavement making walking on it for any length of time difficult. Sidewalks, thankfully, are more modern smooth cobblestone. We enjoyed walking into beautiful Lutheran Churches in the lower town, especially Holy Spirit with its masterful wood carvings and Biblical paintings that ring the balconies. We also had a goal of finding five amber dice for a Bonterra friend. Estonia is known for its amber products. We were having no luck, but after several stores, finally found some.
Next day found us in Riga, Latvia. Kathy and I have a bond with this city from my past as Board of Regents chair for Concordia Theological Seminary in Ft. Wayne, Indiana. One of the Board Chair’s responsibilities was to visit seminary extensions. CTS had one in Novosibirsk, Russia, and another in Riga, Latvia. We loved our time spent in Riga. Revisiting this lovely city was amazing! When we were last here the city was in massive repair and rejuvenation after the Russian occupation. Now, the city is old, yet fresh and new, full of modern conveniences. The plentiful and beautiful distinctive church towers still stand proudly amidst art nouveau buildings. Riga has more art nouveau buildings than any city in the world. The Riga Lutheran Cathedral is really stunning now with its Abbey-arched courtyard filled with medieval artifacts. I marveled at the art-embellished work on the cannon. Items of war made to look so beautiful–ironic, right? Our tour guide, Jerry, is a professor at the Lutheran Seminary in Riga. He was so kind to give Kathy and me so much of his time for a personal tour. He gave us many inside stories of the city and one is particularly poignant. The old Jewish synagogue wall is part of the seminary’s courtyard. A Dutch Reformed Church borders another portion of the seminary. During World War II, the pastor of the Dutch Reformed Church heard the Nazi officials were coming to round up Jews and burn their synagogues. He went to the Rabbi to warn him and proposed to take all the synagogue belongings and hide them in his church, while warning him to tell his congregation to flee or hide. This was done. When the Nazis came to burn the synagogue, the pastor and some community leaders came out of the synagogue and told the Nazi officials the synagogue was empty and not in use. They further exclaimed that to burn it would also cause other building connected to it to burn and that would enrage the citizens in the neighborhood. Seeing that this was true, the synagogue was not burned. Today, this Jewish synagogue is the only one prewar that remains in this part of the world that is still active. Interestingly, the Dutch citizens who supported the Dutch church never returned, having fled to the Netherlands, and the congregation closed. Recently, it was given to the Lutheran Church of Estonia and is now part of the Seminary where it is presently being refurbished. Our day in Riga came to a reluctant close but the awesome cityscape will remain as a beautiful memory.
Our evening was eventful and long since today we are at sea and we could stay up late. We ate in a specialty steak restaurant and attended the late showing of a Broadway presentation. It was all good.
Off the Beaten Path
Gothenburg on Sweden’s western coast faces toward Norway. It is a “young” city, having been constructed from ground up in the 1600s as a port for commerce and a naval bastion to ward off attacks from Sweden’s enemies–at that time Norway and Denmark. We had chosen Gothenburg as a rest stop on our journey not knowing much about it and knowing I would need time to recoup after our air flight into Copenhagen. My oncologist/hematologist had run tests before our trip and told me my immunoglobulins were decreasing again and he was further concerned for my kidneys, so he took me off my multiple myeloma maintenance drug for the duration of our trip. He wished us a great trip and told me I would resume immunoglobulin infusions when we returned home, at which time I would have further testing. As I advise folks, travel when you have the opportunity!
We enjoyed our three-day sojourn in Gothenburg. The weather was pleasant even when the temperatures dropped into the 50’s and low 60’s. This is my preferential weather. The city’s botanical gardens are one of Europe’s finest and were wonderful to stroll. They were close to our hotel and so we ventured there every day to soak up the sun and relish the clean fresh air. We were amused at the hen and chicks plants that were planted to look like rocks in patterns around various gardens. From a distance we did indeed think they were rocks. I will admit that I did sleep late every day until Kathy convinced me that I was missing a wonderful breakfast that was included in the cost of our hotel. How often does one get liver pâté (not braunschweiger), which I love, for breakfast? And Kathy was delighted to enjoy pickled herring for breakfast. As to the other meals, we enjoyed them. One night at a Scandinavian restaurant, the freshly- caught cod was cooked to perfection and more than delightful in a sour cream sauce with tender asparagus as a side. The chocolate pie turned out to be home made chocolate fudge with ice cream. It put a smile on our face remembering a deceased friend who presented us with a gift of homemade fudge every Christmas.
We spent time touring the old parts of the city and enjoyed walking along the canals that course through. All in all it was a restful and delightful “rest stop.” Tomorrow, we catch a bus for Stockholm. We had also bussed from Copenhagen to Gothenburg. I tried four months ago to get train tickets, but they were sold out. Determined to keep the itinerary I had planned, I opted for bus. Having not done this in “like forever,” I was a little nervous, but all is well. The bus depots are by the train stations and the busses are clean and not crowded. They are like a comfortable tourist bus. We survived just fine, proving once again that where there is a will in travel, there is a way!
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