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Majesty in Glacial Ice

Tuesday, October 24, 2023

We left Buenos Aires on October 23, Monday, flying to El Calafate, Argentina, the gateway to Patagonia’s National Capital of the Glaciers. We drove to an outlook over the high plains of the Andes and caught sight of many birds. I never would have thought that flamingos would appear in the Andes. But there they were! Ibis, black and white swans, and Andean geese abound here as well. It is cool to cold here with brisk winds. Being spring, the trees and flowers are budded out and flowering. Our group settled in at our mountain retreat and shared a wonderful evening meal together. I ordered the mountain trout and Kathy ordered the lamb stew. Both were great selections.

The next morning we left for the National Park of the Glaciers. The drive was phenomenal. First, we drove alongside the powder blue Lake Argentina, the largest in Argentina. In front of the lake were highland plains with bush vegetation, some flowering out with yellow blossoms and various grasses waving in the wind. Across the lake were the Andes, snow-covered and looming higher and higher as we went along.

Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park
The calafate flowers are beginning to bloom in Argentina’s springtime

As we ascended, the plains turned into forests with pine and other native trees. Streams flowed down the side of the hills fueled by the snow above. After about 15 miles, we were zig-zagging upward into the Andes. As we approached the glacier Perito Moreno, the sights were amazing as the ice field with great expanse lay out before us. The ice field was nestled between high mountain peaks. On one mountain, a waterfall cascaded downward. Kathy and I had opted for a small boat to take us close to the glacier where it flowed into a huge river bay. We were happy that we had. The boat pulled so close that the blue of the ice was almost overwhelming. Kathy saw one calving of the ice into the water. Andean condors flew overhead. The boat turned parallel to the glacier and very slowly moved along the three mile wall of ice which is 560 feet thick. It was simply astounding! Vivid blues shown brightly and reflected on the clear white ice. Our national park guide told us there is no pollution in water or air in Patagonia. Thankfully, when I dangled Kathy over the side of the boat to scoop up some glacial ice, I didn’t drop her–so there is still no pollution.

Our glacial ice

Once off the boat, we bused up to an area above the glacier in the mountains and hiked on a wonderful metal walkway on stilts that took us to fabulous lookouts above the glacier. This day has left indelible memories in the mind. God’s handiwork leaves one humble to see such beauty.

Argentina’s Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park
Argentina’s Perito Moreno Glacier, October 24, 2023
Kathy Graumann at the Perito Moreno Glacier, Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina, October 24, 2023
Wayne Graumann at the Perito Moreno Glacier, Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina, October 24, 2023

Beautiful Buenos Aires

It is said by locals that an Argentinian is an Italian who speaks Spanish. That is because of the preponderance of the citizenry who have an Italian background. Spain and Germany have also contributed their fair share of immigrants. Kathy and I ate one of the best–maybe the best–Italian meals we have ever eaten in Buenos Aires. That is saying a lot since we have eaten Italian all over Italy. 

We flew from Rio De Janeiro, Brazil, to Buenos Aires, Argentina, mid-morning on Thursday, October 19. Rio is so naturally blessed and situated beautifully between the mountains, jungle and ocean. I wondered what Buenos Aires would be like. I knew the city was dubbed the Paris of South America. We quickly saw why. Beautiful French influenced and Art Deco buildings, huge parks and large fountains and statuary graced tree-lined streets and avenues. We were impressed! We learned about the “golden age” from the mid-1800’s through the early 1900’s when Argentina was one of the wealthiest countries in the world due to its mineral and agricultural exports to Europe. Industrial output followed as Argentina supplied South America with all types of products. 

Our first two days were spent in the quiet, tree-lined haven of the Palermo district. Since it is spring here, the trees are budding out and the flower-laden trees are in full bloom. Reds, pinks, purples and yellows rained down on us as the flowers dropped. It was very relaxing walking and exploring. Kathy had rented an apartment and it was very nice. We purchased some food from a Jumbo supermarket. The store was large and immaculate and the stacks were all below eye level with perfectly-arranged produce. I saw not one can or product out of place.  We rented an Uber to take us to our Sofitel hotel in the Recoleta district for the next two days. This district houses the old town from the “golden age.” It is very beautiful! The “Pink Palace” is now the residence of the President and it sits in a large city square. Impressive French style architecture stretches from it in every direction. Our tour to Patagonia started here with tours of the city being the first order of business. 

Our Collette tour is a small group tour and we met our tour companions with a meal created for us by a private chef. It was delicious as the main course featured Argentinian steak. Appropriate Argentinian wine accompanied each course. Our tour companions are delightful folks! The next morning, we toured the famous Recoleta cemetery filled with Argentina’s greats and wealthy, including Eva Peron of “Evita” fame. She is still adored by most but sometimes hated in the country. Elaborate above ground mausoleums line cobbled lanes. Amazing. The colorful neighborhood of La Boca was fun. Once a shanty town, it was turned into shops and eateries housed in corrugated and brightly painted buildings. Music abounded at every turn. We were amazed at the new town across the river. Once the harbor and warehouse area (now moved) it was completely razed in the 1980’s. Now, stunning skyscrapers and tall apartment buildings are set among parks and upscale shopping areas along the river. No box type buildings here as stylish buildings with interesting architectural detail catch the eye. Both Kathy and I were unexpectedly in awe. It was a grand day in a beautiful city.