Tuk Tuk and Sparkling Eiffel Tower September 12-14, 2022
Our train ride from Amsterdam Central to Paris Gare du Nord was comfortable and smooth. We met the Paluch’s, who joined our group at our Paris hotel for a mid- afternoon three hour Tuk Tuk tour of the city. Open air ride on a beautiful sunny day, these small vehicles could travel and stop on streets that other vehicles could not drive. We asked for a tour of the major sites and arrondissements (districts) of the city to get an overview that would orient/reorient us to Paris. Fun! Our hotel has many outdoor restaurants nearby. We chose a corner one with red awnings and ate large tureens of French onion soup. We were not disappointed.
Next day, Sheila, who is from Denver, and Dee joined us and the Krahn’s for a visit to the majestic, regal and huge (over 700 rooms) Louis XIV Versailles Palace with its beautiful expansive grounds. It is visual overload. Each detail is exquisite, and there are so many details that most are overlooked because the whole is so overwhelming. Of course, the famous Hall of Mirrors was a highlight. Meant to impress those coming to visit the King, it certainly impressed us!
The grounds are also a delight. Because of their immense size, we ordered golf carts to drive along the trimmed hedged corridors past fountains, smaller palaces, outdoor court yards and lengthy man-made canals. King Louis XIV actually had specially built galleons and Venetian gondolas that plied the canals for entertainment purposes. It was all lavishness beyond comprehension. Electronically monitored, the golf carts are given a specific path to follow—go out of the path and the golf cart dies; only the reverse works. Allen drove in the front, because he insisted that I was unreliable as a driver. He went off course twice—I never did! Once, he reversed so much that he almost ended up in a fountain. The people around applauded when he finally got into forward motion.
The Standly’s and Paluch’s went to Giverny for the day. Outside Paris, this home of Monet is filled with a proliferation of flower gardens…a visual delight! Those who appreciate Monet are familiar with the images of the green Japanese bridge draped in wisteria, the waterlily pond, the drifting weeping willows, the flowers and farm scenes that were a part of his property as he developed his impressionistic painting style. His pink home is a French delight filled with Japanese prints, and his painting studio is an artist’s dream. Karen, having been an art instructor, was especially thrilled with the experience. After an inspiring day we all joined together for a Seine Evening River Cruise past beautiful buildings—the burned and under-reconstruction Notre Dame was a sad site, but they are working night and day to have it completed by the Paris Olympics in 2024—to the twinkling lighted Eiffel Tower. Famished, we ate at a wonderful French cuisine restaurant in Paris for a multi-hour meal (multi-course French meals are not fast) and reminiscing about our awesome day. We got to bed near midnight!
After a leisurely next morning, the Standly’s and Graumann’s explored the Montmartre hill with its beautiful memorial white-domed Sacré Coeur and artist shops found in flower-filled squares and quaint cobbled streets. We were totally impressed with an artist who used chicken wire (he was a farm boy) to make beautiful art—using multilayers of wire to get the visual effect of faces on canvass. Hard to explain, yet, creative beauty to behold from such a simple everyday medium. We ate at the famous Montmartre la Maison Rose for a delightful French lunch. My slow roasted hen with lavender-soaked peaches and sauce was yummy. The French do cooking so very well. Later in the day, the Standly’s and Dee and Sheila went to see the iconic Eiffel Tower. They enjoyed the view from the top!
Kathy and I went to the Muséé d’Orsay filled with the paintings of the great impressionist masters. Awe inspiring! The Paluch’s and Krahn’s spent the day in half-timbered and cobblestoned Rouen, northwest of Paris. The capital of Normandy, Rouen is a delightful city housing the majestic Rouen Cathedral with its amazing spires and carved facade. They tried the cherry beer for which the city is famous. 3/4ths of the group liked it—Allen did not. We fended for dinner on our own. Another beautiful day.
TRANSPORTATION STRIKE AND DISCO BALLS
September 10-12, 2022
Our journey begins with the Krahn’s and Standly’s as we arrive in Amsterdam to a surprise transportation strike. Schiphol Airport, one of Europe’s largest hubs, was a mess. Thousands of people jammed everything—everything! Our hotel in The Hague, The Netherland’s capital, was over 25 miles away. What were we to do, with no trains or buses? The taxi queue was monstrously long, hours and hours wait. Did I mention that it was raining? As we stood together trying to figure a way out of our plight, from out of nowhere a uniformed airport personnel approached us and asked how many were in our group. We said, “Six.” He said, “Follow me.” We did. He escorted us through the masses and took us to a special platform dedicated to special needs people and groups of six or more. In less than a minute we were boarding a large Mercedes van that held all of us comfortably along with our luggage, and we were whisked away from the madness towards our wonderful hotel. For one brief moment we felt guilty that we were so blessed.
The Hague is a wonderful city. We ate great seafood meals as the city is situated on the North Sea. I had a delicious meal of Dover Sole, something we rarely get to eat. The Standly’s, being younger than us, explored the city on the first day and found a charming area of the city and enjoyed its ambiance. The rest of us crashed. Kathy and I had been upgraded to a suite but were really too tired to get any benefit out of all that extra space. Next day, the Krahn’s and Standly’s explored old Delft and visited the Delftwork’s porcelain workshop. They found it very interesting as they watched artisans meticulously hand painting each piece. Kathy and I went to see my favorite painting—Vermeer’s “Girl with a Pearl Earring.”
It is housed in the Mauritius along with other Low Country master works. Having left my sunglasses on the airplane and Kathy having forgotten to pack hers, we found a sunglass store in The Hague old town—wait ’til you see our red RayBans. It was a wonderful day! Late afternoon we traveled to Amsterdam and hired a driver through our Marriott.
Our Designer Hotel, a Marriott hotel in Amsterdam, was cool funky! Bier gardens outside, entry lobby a music venue pub with games and unusual furnishings, and a roof top bar, 26 stories up with swings (think porch swings) that swung out over the edge of the hotel. Lit at night with colorful lighting, the hotel stood out along the Amsterdam skyline.
What we found most fun, however, were the smart elevators that had no buttons because it read your room key. Then, when the doors opened, you were greeted with music and…dancing floors with lighted tiles to step on as they switched around to the music, or karaoke walls with the words following the music as you sang into the microphones extending from the walls, or huge spinning disco balls with special lighting that twinkled to the music.
Once in your room, you were met with industrial design and real Gibson guitars (big returnable room deposit) and old fashioned working phonographs with a vinyl collection—yes, original covers! This hotel was interesting to say the least. Outside was the ferry that ran 24/7 and within minutes whisked you from the New Town to the Old Town across the bay. We spent our time riding the canals, exploring the city, eating out, etc.
We especially liked going to Zaanse Schans, the windmill village outside Amsterdam. Bucolic, bucolic, bucolic! Transported back in time, sheep and cattle grazed on lush green grass and ducks swam in the numerous small canals than coursed through the village. Large Dutch windmills (some still in use) interspersed the scene along with deep green or black or gray wooden Dutch houses, all with slate roofs. Flower-laden gardens surrounded by white fences cut “Dutch style” accompanied the view along with white wooden bridges over canals along the footpath. Glorious! We ate Dutch thin pancakes, pannenkoek, and ordered them with either brandied raisins and whipped cream or apricot with eggnog and whipped cream. Tasty!
Our evening meal back in old town Amsterdam was special. The traditional Dutch restaurant was overcrowded, so the maitre d’ escorted us the the bar next door. Only one table was housed in this third oldest bar in Amsterdam, and it was a delight with heavily carved wooden beams of very old world decor. The bartender was our waiter and transported the food from the restaurant to us. We ate bitterballen, a creamed beef fried in breadcrumbs seasoned with spices. The rest of the meal was awesome. Allen very generously tipped the waiter above our regular tips. The waiter was so enthralled that he gave each of us small bottles of Jagermeister, an anise-based liqueur, as a departing gift. We had much fun and beauty on our Netherlands adventure.
Christmas Tree
The Christmas tree in Prague’s Old Town Square is magnificent. With the iconic towers and steeples of the old city proudly looking down and the art nouveau facades of the the buildings around the square looking on, the tree shimmers and shines in the cold evening air. The surrounding Christmas market around the tree is a hustle and bustle of happy people. Christmas music fills the air. We arrived in the capital of the Czech Republic in the early afternoon after a pleasant train ride from Dresden. We passed through the Saxon Switzerland as we followed the Elbe valley out of Germany and into the Czech Republic. The towering rock cliffs and forests were dotted with castles along the way.
Our apartment is wonderful and is located just off the old town square just behind the Tyn Church. We ate a simply marvelous Czech meal at a popular restaurant that sources local produce. Even at three in the afternoon, it was packed and a wait list. We ate a fabulous cabbage salad, that was partially cooked and marinated with tasty spices. Other menu items, all tasty, were cabbage and sausage soup; goulash (tender beef and paprika sauce); bread dumplings; chicken breast with mushrooms; creamed spinach; and cucumber dill salad.
It gets dark here by 4:30 P.M. We meandered the square and soaked in the atmosphere and headed to the apartment for a leisurely evening. We have an exciting day planned tomorrow. WEG
A Birthday
December 4 was Melisa’s birthday. We celebrated in Dresden, Germany. In the morning, Randy and Melisa went to Moritzburg on the outskirts of Dresden to visit the hunting lodge (palace) of the Prince Electors of Saxony. Filled with one of the world’s largest collections of stag antlers, some dating from the 1500s, the palace is set on an island surrounded by a lake that beautifully reflects the palace in the sun. The palace was in a refurbishment phase, so the deer skin wallpaper, much of it hand painted, was removed from the walls. Moritzburg is a beautiful iconic palace, especially for outdoor enthusiasts.
Having been to Moritzburg on previous trips, Kathy and I spent time in the markets, meeting up with Randy and Melisa in the afternoon at the medieval Christmas market in the Royal Palace courtyard to film Randy’s debut as blacksmith. The owner had invited Randy to work with him on a project that Randy was purchasing. It was marvelous fun. People from around the world were filming the fun. Randy was on center stage and making the most of it–oh those Texans! The project took about two hours, but Randy now has a steak branding iron made with his own hand. He heated the iron in a hot pit, hammered it, put it in forging clamps to make final shapes, turned it with a spiral handle and smoothed it. We have a video.
We took a late afternoon break back at the hotel and got ready for an early dinner and concert in the Kulturpalast-Dresden. Our meal was scrumptous! The concert, a blast! For fans of the vocal harmonies of the Pentatonix, the Philharmonic Chamber Orchestra called the Philharmonix was a wondrous harmony of instrumentation. I easily remember their instrumental adaptation of the Queen’s adaptation of the “Hungarian Rhapsody.” They combined “Waltzing Matilda” with the “Cannonball Express” and swing with Tschaikovsky, to name a few of their musical creations. It was anything but traditional and certainly great music. The acoustically pristine hall was filled with appreciative fans! We marveled at one member’s sound projection with his breath through his hands mimicking different instruments as he played along with the group. Many standing ovations kept the group playing, and no one left early. Melisa had a grand birthday party! We returned to the hotel quite late, but thrilled with the day!
Today was Dresden Christmas Market day. Unfortunately, the historic green vault, one of the world’s premiere art collections, was closed, because somehow someone was able to steal $1.1 billion of one display showcasing what was the most complete collection of royal jewels anywhere. They did not get all the jewels! This is a huge cultural loss. So we changed gears and headed for more time in the markets. The hut displays are absolutely, without a doubt, the best we have seen. Dresden is a cultural capital and its art and architecture reflect not only past glory but present reality. Attention to beauty and detail are the rule and there are few exceptions. The 180 huts in the Altesmarkt Square are fully decorated and together form a magnificent Christmas village. Each hut is crowned with a Christmas display, all lighted and some with animation. Some huts are entire wooden buildings built in old world Christmas beauty. It is all very elegant. By the way, the Altesmarkt Christmas Market is one of eight in Dresden, each with its own unique character. The one near our hotel in the Neustadt has white tents, all matching with their pointy tops, stretching for four long blocks. A huge ferris wheel in Christmas colors invites revelers to walk the market. Interspersed are large fire pits in steel barrels with Christmas cut outs–live fires burn through the night. People gather round and drink gluwein, a hot liquor and wine concoction. We thoroughly enjoyed our day! WEG
Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained
Today we took a risk to take a day trip to Gorlitz, Germany, via train. We had never been to Gorlitz before, and it was a very cold day in the freezing range. As we walked into the city it was sleepy and seemed not so great. I was wondering if the day trip was worth it. However, as the day progressed, it got better and better.
We walked a circular trip that took us into Poland, Gorlitz being on the border. We enjoyed the journey discovering many wonderful and beautiful buildings. We walked near a city park and saw a new synagogue being built. The Jewish population was decimated during the World War II holocaust. Many survivor families have returned and are building a very large synagogue near the beautiful park.
As we walked over the border, there were buildings painted in a Polish style, pastels with white trim. Much refurbishment and revitalization is being done in Zgorzelec, Poland. It was past noon and we thought what better use of our time than to have lunch in Poland. What an adventure that turned out to be! One restaurant after another was closed until later in the day. Then presto, an open restaurant on the river! I am positive it would be hard to find a finer restaurant anywhere! Housed in a historic building and refurbished in high style, the linen tablecloths and napkins at Miodmaliny said, “Right place.” Polish stencil work on the walls and red velvet couches and silver velvet chairs made for comfortable seating. The chef was so gracious to explain wine, beer, cordials, appetizers, main courses, desserts. We tried it all! Thin pancakes with Polish curd and fruit and mushroom and sour cabbage perogies in herbed cream sauce were our shared appetizers. Cabbage rolls with veal in a rich tomato gratin; golden duck with whole cranberry sauce and baked apple with Swabish (a state in the old German Empire that was given to Poland after World War II) potato dumplings were our main dishes. The duck was by far the best I have ever eaten–crispy exterior and tender interior. The wines and beers were very good and the fruit cordial tasty. We all oohed and aahed the rest of the day.
We returned to Germany via a pedestrian bridge in a scenic part of the river. Directly in front of us was a majestic Lutheran Church, closed for some repair and rehearsal prior to a weekend concert. We heard a pipe organ playing through the massive walls. We were in the Altstadt (historic section) of Gorlitz. It was beautiful, and workers were everywhere preparing for the Christmas Markets that are to open this weekend. An ice skating rink was already open in a city square and filled with laughing children. We entered another large Lutheran Church from the 1200s. Painted ceilings and walls highlighted the long nave with a beautiful carved altar drawing attention. Fascinating.
As our long day was drawing to a close, we headed back to the train station for an hour journey back to Dresden. What started out as a day unclear as to what would be seen or if any experience could be had turned out to be a very rewarding day. We were reminded that sometimes one can take an adventure when not sure of the outcome. Some people are afraid to take that risk–we were glad we did. WEG
Elegance Refined
Dresden, Germany, is classy and elegant. A center for the arts, the unity of the Baroque buildings and the thoughtful care executed in the many fine details of the Christmas atmosphere shows that the city has refined its well-honed culture. The city is impressive and we were impressed! Harmony, harmony, harmony in the beauty.
Dresden train station
At Christmas
It started as soon as we stepped off the train from Nuremberg. The main station was aglow with garland and lights over the giant archways of the main entry. The enormous Christmas tree was a focal point. As the cab wound its way to our hotel on the Elbe River, I noticed that the massive train bridges had modern paintings where most other train ways have had graffiti in other cities we have visited. Classic buildings were evident.
Kathy and I received a room upgrade to a wondrous suite for our five day stay. Yeah! Unfortunately, because Randy has never admitted he forgot my coke light, Melisa has to suffer along with him in a standard, but quite nice, room. (This is somewhat an inside joke that has carried on now for days.) As we walked to the old town (Altstadt) we saw beautiful Christmas displays. Randy and Melisa were astounded by the historic city that few have visited. The massive baroque towers and steeples, buildings with winged angels and statuary, the castles and palaces and then–the German Belle, the mighty Frauenkirche! As if the exterior was not impressive enough, when we walked inside, both Randy and Melisa were flabbergasted by the light and airy beauty of the baroque design. (Melisa opined, “I could stay here a day just to soak in the beauty.”) Blue and pink with white and gold angels and saints all looking upon Jesus while praying in the Garden of Gethsemane as God the Father looks down from heaven. The altar (180 feet tall) is topped with the pipes of an acclaimed pipe organ creation by Silberman. J.S. Bach played on the organ. A Lutheran church, the Frauenkirche is crowned with a massive dome painted with saints in baroque style. The church is somewhat circular with tiers of balconies reaching skyward. We were blessed with a short Advent service, the pastor in black robe with a broad white bifken.
The altar in the
beautiful Frauenkirche
We ate at one of Kathy and my favorites. Filled with antique furniture and tiffany lamps, each table is different than the next. We ate a filling German meal. Then, to some of the many markets in the city. We were amazed with the medieval market in the palace courtyard. The buildings were aglow with specialized projections of snow and torches. The market stalls were all medieval in character staffed with people in medieval costume. Live medieval Christmas music filled the air. Randy was impressed with the blacksmith shop and the owner invited him back midweek to work along side him, heating and shaping metal into objects. Of course, Randy is ready to go! The blacksmith told him to ditch the puffy coat and wear only natural fibers. We will make sure Randy ditches the lighted Christmas hat he has been sporting around as well.
Kathy and I have loved Dresden for a long time and have stayed here for prolonged periods. It is such a pleasure to see our friends fall in love with it also. WEG
Ob der Tauber
Rothenburg ob der Tauber (on the Tauber river) is a charming and romantic city that time forgot. Never destroyed by war, the beautiful buildings inside the fairy tale walls and towers exude German quaintness to the max. That it was beautifully decorated for the Christmas, all the better.
It was obvious the city markets were ready for the crowds. There was live outdoor music of various kinds with regularity. We meandered the outdoor streets and admired the wondrous creativity that captured the architecture of the city. Every street was picture perfect. We stopped to eat in a wonderful restaurant overlooking the St. Jacob Church. It was classy and the food excellent. I had veal in cream sauce and root vegetables.
Our long lunch concluded, we stopped into the St. Jacob Lutheran Church with its two grand towers which houses amongst its precious art, the famous Riemanschneider Altar, which contains a vile of blood, traditionally considered from Christ at the Crucifixion. Because of this, the church has always been one of the most important on the pilgrimage route. Once we entered, we noticed that the church was packed. An Advent service was in progress. We were allowed entrance and marveled at the adult choir, the children’s choir, the orchestra, the pipe organ and recorder choir. We were blessed!
Once outside it was cold and we were glad we had dressed warmly. We went to more Christmas Market and then to the flagship Kathe Wolfarte Christmas store. Housed in classic Rothenburg style, it was overwhelming. Christmas items, artfully displayed on end! Randy and Melisa tried valiantly to buy a hand crafted/carved wooden Christmas tree; unfortunately, in the end, it was unavailable until next year. Oh, did I forget to say, Randy was wearing a Christmas stocking hat that had lights!
As evening fell, so did the temperatures and we headed back to our apartment in Nuremberg. We had one hitch in that a train was delayed. Randy and Kathy had time for a break and went to the station food and facilities area. Randy, unfortunately, forgot to bring me the coke light he was supposed to buy. He acted like he didn’t remember as the Christmas lights on his head blinked. We are having a grand time. WEG
Christmas/Weihnachten
It was another moving day with a deep Christmas meaning. Randy and Melisa spent the morning at the Documentation Center in Nuremberg while Kathy and I browsed the markets.
Documentation Center, Nürnberg
The Documentation Center records the rise and fall of Adolf Hitler and the National Socialist (Nazi) Party and its deathly affect on the world and ultimately Germany. It records the evil perpetuated, especially during the Holocaust. As you wind your way through all the displays and watch the vivid movies of the period, you finally end up high above the massive rally grounds where the Nazis held their spectacular events as Hitler egged them on to a false glory. You stand there, in a glass promontory above the exact spot at which Hitler spoke. It is eerie and sad. You leave realizing evil is real and mesmerizing.
Kathy and I enjoyed the Christmas markets. Lebkuchen, a type of ginger cookie, is a specialty of Nuremburg and is on display in a multitude of ways. Children were singing and brass was playing. We enjoyed the Nuremburg sausage, a centuries old protected recipe.
As we visited the important St. Sebald Lutheran Church we noticed that a large brass choir was assembling. A concert! We contacted Randy and Melisa and gave the “get here now” text. St. Sebald is the most important church in Nuremburg since it houses the remains of an important eighth century saint, Sebald, and was the church of the leading musician of his day, Johann Pachelbel. Randy and Melisa used his music, the Canon in D, for their wedding.
The brass choir was outstanding. The Advent and Christmas music filled the magnificent church to the delight of the large crowd. It was a “pinch me, is this real, and am I really here” moment. 
Our evening meal was in a very nice, atmospheric German restaurant. The food: sauerbraten, rouladen, beef roast—all with different sauces (one gingerbread), red cabbage with apples, sauerkraut with caraway and bay leaves, potato dumplings, and dumpling soup with parsley and a dessert with apple strudel, cream torte and ice cream. We were satisfied for our walk back to the apartment just on the outskirts of the old town. WEG 
Wafting Sound
Our train trip to Nuremberg, Germany, from Strasbourg, France, was smooth as we glided through fields green with winter crops. We found our apartment near the main train station, unpacked quickly, and headed out to eat at a Franconian (a region of Bavaria) restaurant. Melisa had her first sauerbraten and Randy his first pork shank. Potato dumplings were also a first for both. The meal was satisfying all around. The beer is great: German beer is unfiltered, has no chemicals and is not pasteurized.
We headed to the old town where the main Christmas Market, the Chriskindlesmarkt, is located. So did the rest of the world, it seemed, as we were greeted with a crush of crowds! News media was out in full force for this first day of one of–if not the most–popular markets in Europe. Eventually, we decided to go to the organ and choir concert at the amazing St. Lorenz Lutheran Church. Along the way we stopped in to a great little place selling light desserts and drinks. It was warm inside in contrast to the upper 30s outside.
The concert at St. Lorenz was nothing short of spectacular! The huge church was overflowing. People sat on the floor or leaned against the giant pillars that divided the church into three aisles. Thankfully, we found seats in the side aisle but with good sight lines. Unbelievably, a family behind us spoke excellent English and two of the boys had just graduated from the boys’ choir that was singing that night. We received so much wonderful information! The choir consists of 100 boys who go to a special school to allow them to practice, get private voice lessons, travel in concert, and get a regular education, without being in the general population. Talk about first class sound! Heavenly! The church reverberated with the voices wafting through the high ceilings of the church. The Lutheran Church pays for half the costs, and sponsors make up the rest. Since this was an Advent/Christmas Service, the church’s massive organ was also played. We soaked up the sounds and will long remember it. Kathy and I commented that it took us back to our childhood when we had children’s Christmas programs. The Advent/Christmas music we memorized formed some of the content of the service/concert. The boys’ choir sang underneath the Angelic Salutation adornment by Veit Stoss and beside the stone tabernacle by Adam Kraft (over 90 feet tall and carved from one stone). Both are artistic treasures, but not the only ones in this richly adorned church. It was a first class and spiritually enriching experience. Our Christmas spirit was elevated for all the right reasons. WEG 
Thanksgiving in Strasbourg
We walked into the Petite France section of Strasbourg along the river. Half timbered buildings mingled with traditional French and German architecture. Strasbourg is along the German border, and the Alsace region of present day France was part of Germany for long periods of its history. There are still Lutheran/Protestant churches in the city, and one of them, St. Thomas, had a noon day scripture and music devotional. The church was begun in the 700s and is very large. Its pipe organ was built by Silberman, the great pipe organ builder. Albert Schweitzer played on the instrument. The music was meditative and the pastor had chosen hymns that were definitely Thanksgiving in character. How appropriate for us! We were able to sing along since some sang in French, some in German, and some in English as the words of each language were printed out. It was a good moment in time as we thought of family and friends back home. We were thankful to God for our many blessings.
Our Thanksgiving meal was eaten in a striking restaurant all decked out for Christmas and in a quaint half-timbered building set along the river. Everything was quite French. I believe my Camembert fried in a sesame cream and Randy’s meat dish in a French pastry won the prize for great French cuisine. Not a typical Thanksgiving meal, but it was for us a memorable one. The local beer was also quite good.
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It is a grey day with intermittent rain, but the Christmas lights are bright and cheery. In the mid-afternoon Kathy and I returned to the apartment for a short rest while Randy and Melisa went on exploring. They returned to the apartment to fetch us because they had found the largest Christmas market in Strasbourg. It is one we had not visited. Lights and stalls abounded. It seems as if stores compete to see which can have the most festive display. All of this in a beautiful old town on its own right, festooned with Christmas joy. It is an almost surreal experience.
We ended our day with traditional gluhwein (a liquor and hot wine concoction) and a huge white bratwurst. We also called family to say, as I do to you, “Happy and blessed Thanksgiving.” WEG
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