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Mass and Chablis

On Saturday, April 27, we drove through more beautiful French territory as we traveled along the wine route that stretches from Bordeaux on the Atlantic to Switzerland through central France. Though we were only traversing a small portion of the route, our “short” trip north to Auxerre turned out to be a six-hour journey as we simply could not speed along while traveling through hardwood forests and hill country with the never-ending vibrant fields of yellow rapeseed. Then again, we would wander into a beautiful French country village. We saw farmers in fields, even a scarecrow. Entering Orleans, we took time to visit the St. Croix Cathedral. Not being able to find a parking space, Randy sacrificed his visit by dropping us off and driving around until we had completed our viewing.

Cathedrale Saint-Croix D’Orleans, located on the banks of the Loire River
Cathedral of Saint Croix in Orleans
The Cathedral of Saint-Croix in Orleans is the seat of the Bishop of Orleans, originally built from 1278 to 1329.
Cathedrale Saint-Croix D’Orleans
Chapelle Jeanne-D’Arc (Joan of Arc) in the Cathedrale Saint-Croix D’Orleans – Joan of Arc saved the city from English siege in 1429, an event celebrated in Orleans annually.

We were intrigued by all we saw. As we drove, we began to see vineyards just beginning to green on the vine. Up hills and down valleys they plunged, some so steeply we speculated about the difficulty of harvesting the grapes. We had indeed hit the wine trail!

Vineyards along France’s wine route – Domaine Gautheron,
Grand Vins de Chablis from 1809
Vineyards along France’s wine route

Auxerre is one of the principal stops on the wine trail, and we had a hotel there for the night. A river town with large house boats and high hills, Auxerre is a stately city. Towers and steeples dominate the cityscape. The next morning we walked up to the majestically positioned St. Etienne Cathedral. High above the river below, we arrived as morning mass was beginning. We stayed for the entire service, with a beautiful pipe organ playing, a large congregation participating in singing, prayers, and responsive readings, and respectful, attentive robed youth assisting the clergy throughout the service. We were impressed with the many young families in attendance. Children played and danced, their sounds absorbed into the massive building.

The Cathedral Saint Etienne in Auxerre
The Cathedral Saint Etienne in Auxerre
Auxerre, France
Auxerre, France, is a commercial and industrial center, noted also for its production of Burgundy wine, including Chablis.
In 1995, Auxerre, France, was named a “Town of Art and History”.

Auxerre and the surrounding area deserved more time, but alas, we had not planned it that way. Driving onward, we arrived in Chablis, the area around which produces the grapes for the wine by its namesake. The village is mesmerizingly charming. Rivers run through with waterfalls and village flowers were stunning. Vineyards rose into the hills all around. Everything was pristine. Being lunchtime, we found a restaurant that shouted “French.” Randy and Melisa, our friends, enjoyed croque monsieur (fried bread and ham and cheese topped with a soft easy-over egg) while Kathy and I ate a locally produced sausage with great dijon mustard–(Dijon is nearby)–and a chocolate soufflé with vanilla cream sauce. It was an enjoyable meal in a dream land setting. Of course, Chablis wine was excellent and appreciated! On we went towards Troyes.

Chablis, France, lies in the valley of the River Serein.
In Chablis, France, grapes prosper in the cool climate and clay-limestone soil, resulting in, as some declare, “possibly the purest Chardonnay on the planet.” Chablis wine is 100% Chardonnay, the only grape variety permitted in this region.
Chablis, France, known as the Golden Gate of Burgundy, is famous for its prestigious wine made in the unoaked-aging Chardonnay style.

3 Comments

  1. Pat Thompson's avatar Pat Thompson says:

    awesome photos!! So glad you guys are getting to see a lot of God’s beauty and the cathedrals. Growing up Catholic, I always loved the old huge churches. Continue your fab journey.Praying for you,Pat and Tommy

  2. Chris Bregenzer's avatar Chris Bregenzer says:

    Well, you taught me something I either didn’t know or don’t remember IF I was ever told: chablis and chardonnay are the exact same wine. When I was a child, a teen and young adult, my recollection is most bottles of white wine I saw said “chablis” on the label, and I don’t recall seeing the word “chardonnay” until I switched from drinking cocktails and beer to wine in my late 30’s. It must’ve been a move by American wine snobs back then because I hardly ever see a bottle labeled chablis these days. (I don’t buy many French wines anymore since there are so many other countries producing wines just as good for a cheaper price.) Your trip is just wonderful, and today’s reminded me of first learning about St. Joan of Arc as a child in Catholic school. Her story was taught in all Religion classes in grade school since she was martyred for her faith. The cathedral and eglise reports are great…..keep them coming!

  3. Renate L Hardaway's avatar Renate L Hardaway says:

    Beautiful architecture and beautiful scenery!

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